Originally posted by: john h on 10/4/2007 10:07:44 PM

think you bout covered it lol

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/4/2007 7:29:24 PM

For me, trolling basically involves having a rod in my hand, with a length of line hanging out the boat, with a lure attached to it <!--graemlin::D--> and either drifting, rowing or using a motor to move the boat, and therefore “drag” the lure through the water.

As many of you know, it can be a WHOLE lot more complicated than that <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Here’s just ONE example of what can be done <!--graemlin::)-->



Here’s a few techniques…and a few diagrams / pics that I’ve scrounged off the ‘Net and have saved over the years <!--graemlin::o-->

There’s MANY different ways to troll…you can do it with topwater baits…or with 32 oz “cannonballs” on a downrigger. In between is a LOT of different ways / ideas / thoughts.

Trolling topwater / shallow-water baits USUALLY only needs a couple of rod holders and / or a couple of fisherman.

Just REMEMBER that each STATE’S laws are different when it comes to how many lines EACH person can have in the water…so PLEASE pay attention to the Regs. <!--graemlin::eek:-->

At the same time, the majority of trolling that is done is at deeper depths. Here’s a few ways to get lures “down” where you want them. The first is simple…use baits on the end of a “straight-line” that are designed for specific depths.

But there are other ways to get OTHER (mostly floating-type) lures down in the water column…

1. Add a sinker on the line ahead of the bait...many will do.
2. Why not a Carolina Rig?
3. Keel sinkers
4. Bottom Bouncers
5. Lead core line
6. Down-riggers

There are also ways to get your lure out to the sides of the boat AND down…

Planer boards
Dipsey Divers
Jet Divers

I ran across this while doing my research for this…. "Outrovers"...why not for fresh water?

http://www.fishingtackleplus.com/outrover.htm

To add to all of this, there are a multitude of ways to add “attractors” ahead of your trolled bait such as these…

Wire “trolls” with various blades
Dodgers
Flashers
"Cowbells"

Here’s a series of pics that I’ve accumulated to show various things. If you don’t understand…or disagree, don’t hesitate to make a post and state what you feel <!--graemlin:;)--> I’m NOT an expert <!--graemlin::(-->







































You can even drift / slow troll with bobbers….





PLEASE feel free to add your good info to this…or ask a decent question <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/5/2007 4:12:42 AM

Hey Dave some good info there. Turnip n rabbit just turned me on to trolling this fall so I'm in the learning process. Turnip's got a book put out by rapala that gives how deep all there lures will run with the differant lengths of line out. Now I'm in the collecting of more gear process. <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/5/2007 6:39:25 AM

There is another good book that is published by Pro-Troll, in California. The title is: Downrigger Fishing Techniques, by Dick Pool. I am a big time rookie when it comes to downriggers. But straight line trolling is not new to me. For years I used to troll with a Mepps spinner for small mouth bass, and was very successful at it. Thanks to folks like "Walleyeking#1" and "Erabbit", I have learned how to straight line troll for many other species of fish and am learning the fundamentals of downrigger trolling. <!--graemlin:;)-->

Originally posted by: T R on 10/5/2007 9:52:40 AM

<!--graemlin::)--> Excellent job! thanks

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/5/2007 11:41:36 AM

Precision Trolling Books

http://www.precisionangling.com/

"Downrigger Fishing Techniques" by Dick Pool

http://www.bookfinder.com/search/?a...t=sr&ac=qr" TARGET=_blank>Dick Pool books on Bookfinder.com

Actually...there's been many books written concerning trolling over the years...

http://www.bookfinder.com/search/?a...t=sr&ac=qr" TARGET=_blank>Trolling books on Bookfinder.com

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/7/2007 6:38:46 AM

inline trolling board
stacking lines off down rigger
cheater line off down rigger
using a small mini dics diver off down rigger
wire line
copper line
pulling copper
slide divers
Lead core line is a differnt color every 10 yards so now people have come up with
Full core and any combo of colors like 3 colors would be just that 30 yard of lead core.
Counters on reels and down rigger lets you go to a controled depth fishing........as long as I know I put my lure 10' from the release on the down rigger and dropped the down rigger 100' down and hooked up I can repeat this again and again no guessing.
The same thing while using divers by using a line counter on a reel you can get back in the "zone".

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/7/2007 2:06:34 PM

Thanks for the post Ed <!--graemlin::cool:-->

For the rest of you out there...I'd like to point out that line counters work well even with plain straight-line trolling. This is important as how much line you have out CAN affect how deep a lure will run.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that the marked "colored" line is made in a "plain" braid version too. <!--graemlin::confused:-->

Yet another option is to use "countdown" type lures (like the Countdown Rapala), but for 2-4 guys in the boat getting lures to different depths at the same time CAN be a test of your timing <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Still another option is a couple of items made by https://ssl10.securedata.net/gapen/tackle.html

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/7/2007 2:33:13 PM

I just got a few of those last winter Dave.
"Poor Man's Downrigger"
When Pete and I was at the Ohio Meet it was off of one of those that I got my Muskie on. Before I tried those I put out my slide-diver rod and when I put it in Pete's rod holder I thought it was going to rip it off the boat. We had out a 3oz and a 5oz the 3 was about 10' down and the 5 was around 16'. Nice little addition they are even if you have down riggers they would give a differnt look for the fish with out a 12# cannon ball in front of your offering..... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/7/2007 3:02:24 PM

I hear that Ed...those are on my shopping list too <!--graemlin:;)-->

Here's a relevent "trolling" question

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:21 pm Post subject: "Muddy Bottom Lake Trolling"

quote:

jbird68 wrote:
My local lake is 90% muddy bottom. I've trolled in the past and have had little luck. Well, maybe it's all luck. In 2001, I caught a 39" Muskie trolling a rubber work with a propeller and some red beads behind a lindy NO-SNAG sinker. two years ago, I had another Muskie on but broke my line about 5 feet from the boat. Last year I caught a 22" Walleye trolling a gold colored Deep-Diving Husky Jerk. But that's all. I don't have a science to my catches other than I was lucky. there isn't much structure in teh lake at all, except for lots of lilly pads and at times tons of over grown algea.

I was just wondering what season you think is better for trolling.

And what species are best. I guess trolling in this little 78 acre lake would be mainly for Walleye or Muskie. although it also holds Channel Cats, Blue Gill, Crappie, Large Mouth Bass and Sauger/Saugeye.

quote:

Actually...I would hit spring time soon as growth starts and fish around the vegetation....if you have acess i would think of adding some crappie stake beds or condos for some structure...

You would get lots of lm bass in the veggetation along with gills and maybe some crappie if there is a lake of other structure..once it gets overgrown i wouldnt worry bout fishing it....late fall should be good for eyes there once vegetation disapears

What kind of depth does it have?

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/7/2007 4:51:43 PM

Well, I hear about weeds & lilly pads. Is there a drop-off near the edge of the weeds or pads? Someone asked the question about depths, and that would be important to know. I guess for me, I would need to see a contour map. Brush piles don't mean much to me unless I am crankin' it or they sit on the edge of a drop-off. I would guess there is a deep, cool main channel there, somewhere...

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/12/2007 6:08:58 AM

This is a good place for Chris trolling info...I dodn't have the thrid one on this computer maybe Chris will see this and post it up for us.

quote:

This is the first of a three part article I wrote on trolling. Although they're geared mainly towards the novice..there may be a few points in them that even the season angler may pick up on.


Trolling - From Top to Bottom
© Chris Stack (SluggoNY) 2004

Although I don't profess to be an expert, I've been a hard-core troller for over 25 years. I was first introduced to it by an "old-timer" who ran copper wire by hand and used modified "Victrola" boxes to spool it on as he retrieved it. This was before the advent of the "downrigger" and numerous other devices that have evolved over the years. The following article is based strictly on my experience and opinions and should not be construed as fact. Since I fish almost exclusively for walleye, and mostly on the eastern basin of Lake Erie, most of my discussion will pertain to that, although these same techniques will work in other waters for other species! I hope you enjoy it and if you gain anything from it..all the better! In this part, I'll just be touching on the basics of trolling. In parts 2 & 3, I'll go into a bit more detail on the equipment and techniques that I use.

Good Fishing, SluggoNY (Chris)

Part 1 - The Basics

Trolling, by my definition, is simply a technique used to propel your offering by some means other than casting and retrieving. I suppose this could be done by walking the shoreline with a long pole sticking out over the water, but I'll stick with the most commonly used system..a motor boat. Almost any boat can be used to troll with..my first being a row boat. I advanced to a small motor boat, then to a larger motor boat, then to an inboard/outboard ski boat (kept the family happy) and finally to a large Deep-V Lund. The boat, although an important part of trolling, is probably not the most important part. In my opinion, the most important factors in trolling are location, depth, speed and repetition.

Location

Obviously, you've got to find the fish to catch them. In mid to late summer, I know from experience that many of the huge walleyes of Lake Erie have migrated to the deeper eastern basin in search of cooler water and in chase of the schools of baitfish that are doing the same. The baitfish will generally suspend very close to where the thermocline forms..normally in the 50-60 foot range. I usually use this depth as a starting point and cruise in search of these schools using my fish-finder, a Lowrance X-97, which has the capability to read at fairly high speeds. Once I find good numbers of baitfish, I'll slow down and set up to troll.

Depth

Let's assume that we've located some huge schools of baitfish at 60 feet down in 90 feet of water..I'd start by setting my offerings from 40 feet down to 60 feet. I've found, for the most part, that suspended walleyes don't feed downward...they feed upward! I almost always start off by deploying at least one downrigger..I'll explain why shortly. I then put out a pair of dipsy divers..usually one with a stickbait and the other with a worm harness. For a final setup (assuming there's two people on board) I might just run a long line with a snap weight attached. As I stated..all of these would be set to run in the 40-60 foot range. This is strictly a starting point and my setups will likely change as the fish tell me what they prefer.

Speed

For mid to late summer walleyes, I'll normally begin my troll at 1.5 to 2 mph. My X-97 has a very accurate paddlewheel type speed sensor, and my GPS also gives out an accurate speed-over-ground readout. During dead calm conditions in waters with no current, these speeds will almost always match. Unfortunately, I've rarely seen Lake Erie go flat, and there's a surprising amount of water current at 50 feet down. Remember the downrigger that went down first? That's my bible when it comes to trolling speed on Lake Erie. I can tell much closer by the slope of my downrigger cable what speed my lures are running at than by any other means! Once I zero in on the speed I like, then we'll use one of the other gauges as a reference and to hold our speed. As with our starting depth, this speed is also just a starting point. As we run a zigzag pattern, we'll be able to hone in on the proper speed by paying attention to where and when our hits come. Hits on the inside on a turn dictate a slower speed, while hits on the outside are calling for more speed.

Repetition

This is one of the most overlooked factors I've seen while trolling. If something is working, why change! I pay very close attention to how much line was out, what speed I was running, which direction I was running as well as what lure was on..every time I catch a fish! If I get four fish running a downwind pattern, then turn around and run the same pattern upwind and get one fish..I'd say it's worth pulling and running to repeat the downwind program. Repetition is a very important factor in trolling...not only do you want to repeat what worked when you catch a fish...you also want to avoid repeating what's not working to further increase your chances!
...............................

Part II

This is the second of my three part article on trolling. The third part is a bit more tedious than I assumed, but will be finished shortly. Please feel free to offer feedback, corrections or criticism..I'm pretty hard shelled and also still eager to learn!

Trolling - From Top to Bottom
Part II
© Chris Stack (SluggoNY) 2004


Part II - Gear and Gadgets

Please keep in mind that, since I have no sponsors, the specific names and brands that I mention here are strictly my personal preferences and opinions. Let's start with the big stuff and work our way down.....

Boat - Rigging -Electronics

We run a Lund 1800 Fisherman powered by a 75 Honda 4-stroke. The boat, although actually underpowered, trolls great without the need of a small "kicker" motor. However, if we get more serious about tournament fishing, we may have to re-power as our lack of speed can cost us some valuable fishing time! The boat itself is a very deep, wide, stable boat. Even though I'd consider it minimal for Lake Erie, it's brought us back in "honest" 7 footers...which I don't recommend as a steady diet! The Honda motor is "bulletproof" and trolls all day at an idle without skipping a beat. Because it swings a medium diameter prop, we can usually troll without the need for any slowing device. We do, however, have a trolling plate on the motor that can be dropped to limit it's thrust. With the plate down, we can troll at under 1 mph!

The boat is equipped with two Walker electric downriggers mounted on swivel bases. These each have dual "tube type" rod holders attached to them. We also have six more RAM rod holders mounted in various locations around the boat. I should stress here..I urge that you don't skimp on the rod holders! Many trolling devices, such as dipsies and boards, put a great deal of pressure on these holders. It's very disheartening to have a holder spin on you only to watch an expensive trolling rig go swimming (been there).

On the dash we have our depthfinder, GPS and compass mounted. I've had excellent luck with Lowrance finders for years and presently run the X-97. For GPS's though, I prefer the Garmin products. Our model 182 has the "maps" feature which makes it easy to see where you are and where you've been! It even displays border lines so we can avoid fishing Canadian or PA waters if needed. The compass is a large, lighted, marine model mounted on the dash between the finder and GPS. It's very handy as a quick reference when trying to maintain a heading because it's easily viewable even when standing. Because we often venture considerable distances from the launch, for safety's sake, we also carry a handheld GPS and are equipped with a marine radio and cell phone.

Downriggers

These are simply motor driven spools that pull or drop a cable via a boom and pulley. Attached to the cable is a large weight, in our case, a 10 pound, fish shaped weight. The downrigger also has a display (in feet) that indicates how much cable is out. The sole purpose of the downigger is to place and hold your offering at a precise depth. The nice part about downrigger fishing is that your line is connected to the weight or cable with a release, so when you get a release, you have only the fish to contend with.

Planer Boards and Mast

These are commonly referred to as "Big" boards. In our case, we run "Super Ski" twin boards with a six foot mast and dual retrievers. The purpose of the boards is to spread your offerings out to the sides. They work great for shoreline trolling as well as open water trolling and can be let out as far as 100 feet or more to the sides. Once in place, these boards normally remain out for the duration. Like the downriggers, the boards are connected to the retrieval spool via the mast and pulleys, however, the tow line is a fairly heavy gauge of light weight nylon. When the setup is completed, your fishing line is connected to the tow line with a pinch-pad release on a "shower curtain" style hanger. This hanger clips over the tow line and can be fed out to the desired distance. Also like the downriggers, a hit will cause the line to release so it's just you and the fish. The release and hanger will work their way out to the board, so you just rig another and let them accumulate. This system works well and has it's advantages, but since the smaller "in-line" boards came out, we rarely use the "big" boards anymore.

In-line Boards

Like the big boards, the purpose of the in-line boards is to spread your lines out. But unlike the big boards, these attach directly to your fishing line and must be removed during the retrieval of the fish. It sounds awkward, but can actually be accomplished very quickly with one hand after some practice! We use the "off-shore" brand boards with the "tattle-tale" system. These boards are about a foot long and incorporate an adjustable spring loaded flag that's connected to the rear release. This flag will drop when pressure is applied, thus telling you when something is pulling your string. The adjustment is used to compensate for different speeds or hard pulling lures. This system really helps to avoid dragging those six inch perch around!

Dipsy Divers / Jet Divers

These pain in the neck little gadgets are probably my least favorite of any device to use. They're extremely hard pulling and difficult to adjust for different situations. That being said..we probably use them more than any other device since they've accounted for more fish than any other! The "Dipsy Diver",I believe, is just the trade name for Luhr Jensen's version of the directional diving disc. They come in several sizes, but we almost always use the largest which is about four inches in diameter. The disc has a weight on the bottom leading edge and an adjustable fin on the top rear. The release arm, to which your line's connected, pivots from the front and latches towards the center of the disc. When latched, this causes the disc to be dragged from the center with the weight causing it to dive. The fin not only keeps it from spinning, but can be turned..making the disc work to the left or right as well as diving.

The amount of line out is the main factor dictating how deep the dipsy will run. Speed and directional setting also have an effect. The lure is attached to the swivel on the rear of the dipsy. Because the dipsy stays on the line, you want your lure no more than a rod length behind the dipsy or netting becomes a real problem! Theoretically, when a fish hits, the release arm should pop free so that you're pulling the diver from the leading edge. This creates far less resistance than when the arm is cocked. Setting the diver for the right pressure required to release it is a bit tricky, but with patience and practice, it can be mastered. The jet diver works by the same basic principle, but unlike the dipsy, has no release. It relies on the pressure of the fish pulling on the rear to cause it to level out and retrieve easily. They also have no directional adjustment. They work well with boards as they create far less pull than the big dipsys, which drag too hard to be run behind boards.

Snap Weights

Snap weights are simply trolling weight that you clip on your line to acheive a desired depth. The type that we use come in kits that consist of assorted size weights from 1/2 to 3 ounces and clips with large snap rings that enable quick changing of the weights. Of course, depth is dependant on the amount of weight as well as the amount of line out.

Leadcore Line

This is another of those "nuisance" but effective trolling devices. Like dipsys, I don't know why leadcore produces, but it does! This stuff, as the name implies, is a braided dacron line with a thin lead core inside it to give it weight. We run the 18# line, which is a fairly large diameter, but has the same weight as the higher rated, larger diameter lines. Leadcore, like most of the new braided "super" lines, has no stretch. Therefore, we always run a monofilament leader as well as using a long, soft tipped rod to compensate for this. The line is color coded in ten yard sections. At a speed of about 1.5 mph, this line sinks at a rate of approximately six feet for each ten yards or "color" out. This allows you to tell by the color how much leadcore you have out. Because of the bulk of this line, it requires a very large capacity reel to hold any quantity of it. One advantage it has is that it reacts very quickly to speed changes. This can be very helpful when searching for fish as it raises and lowers your offerings on turns and speed changes. It also allows you to raise quickly if necessary by simply increasing your speed.

Rods / Reels

Unlike jigging or rigging which require sensitive rods, trolling is hardly a finesse presentation so expensive rods are not a necessity. For light duty trolling, my favorite rod is the Ugly Stix in a 7-1/2 foot medium/heavy action. These are flexible enough to work well with the downriggers yet have the backbone to pull medium size dipsys and snap weights also. For heavier trolling, like we do on Lake Erie, I go with heavier rods like the Daiwa Heartland trolling rods in 8 and 9 foot heavy action for dipsys and boards, and Shimano TDR 8 foot medium action for downriggers and snap weights. For leadcore, I use Bass Pro Shop's "Walleye Angler" series Gold Cup rods and reels which are high capacity, level wind reels on 8-1/2 foot medium action trolling rods. For light trolling reels I prefer to use spinning reels with a "dual drag" feature such as the Shimano "Bait Runner" or the Quantum "Bait Sensor". This dual drag feature allows you to set both a primary and a secondary drag and choose either with the flip of a switch. These are ideal for downrigging as you can lower your offering with a light tension to avoid prematurely popping the release, then switch to the primary drag and you're ready for fish.

Because these reels aren't available with line counters, a clip on line counter that attaches to the rod comes in handy when using them for snap weights or dipsys. For the heavy stuff, I like to go with good quality level wind reels. Aside from the Gold Cups that we use for leadcore, all of my big water reels are Daiwa Sealine SG27's. Some are line counter models for use with dipsys, boards and snap weights. Some are not line counters, as there is no need for them with the downriggers.

Lines / Lures / Etc.

I'm very fussy when I get to this part. It's inevitable that you'll lose a fish on occasion, but it's downright frustrating to lose one because of equipment failure! Good quality line is an obvious necessity. I use the newer braided "super" lines on all of my trolling rigs. The reels that I use for dipsys and boards are all lined with 30# test Power Pro. Most of the others have 20# test Fireline on them. I almost always use a "polymer" knot and check it frequently for wear. If you're going to have a line failure, the knot is the most common culprit! For leaders, I use Seguar Fluorocarbon Leader Material. There's a big difference between line and leader material! Leader material is much stiffer and more abrasion resistant and withstands the rigors of trolling much better than line.

To attach these, I use high quality ball bearing swivels, normally Sampo's. At the end of my leaders, I tie on a "cross lock" snap. Now I'm ready to quickly change from one lure or gadget to another. Another equally important item is your hooks! A good quality, sharp hook is a must! I tie all of my own worm harnesses using 20# test leader material and Gamagatsu "Octopus" hooks and honestly can't remember the last time I lost a fish due to equipment failure. Most lures come with decent hooks on them, but most can also use sharpening right out of the box! A small, battery operated hook sharpener does the job in seconds. When I do replace the treble hooks on my lures, they get Mustad "Triple Grip" hooks. Many of these items are surprisingly expensive. The line alone to do one trolling reel costs about the same as the rod! But..considering all the other expenses incurred before you get a line in the water..this is not the place you want to cut costs!

In part three I'll be going over some of the techniques we use to take best advantage of all this gear and gadgetry!

Good Fishing, SluggoNY (Chris)
.....................

Originally posted by: JESSE on 10/12/2007 5:15:23 PM

<!--graemlin::)-->those were some great pics on down rigging thanks

Originally posted by: WalleyeWayne on 10/12/2007 6:13:11 PM

Excellent information fella's. In a nutshell, that's the best and simplest way I've seen the many styles of trolling illustrated. We use several of those techniques for salmon & lake trout and occasionally mid-summer walleyes. For those that are thinking of trying this methods, I suggest you print the pages and take them with you when you go out to give it a try. Well done everyone!

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/13/2007 3:08:25 PM

Thanks for taking the time to post that Ed <!--graemlin:;)--> and thanks to SluggoNY (Chris) for writing it up <!--graemlin::cool:-->

The Luhr Jensen company has Tech Reports on their products and different techniques that are downloadable pdf files

http://luhrjensen.com/techreports.cfm

I also ran across this today (scroll towards the bottom of the webpage) <!--graemlin::)-->

http://lakemichiganangler.com/tips/tips.htm

And I found some more trolling articles here <!--graemlin::)-->

http://www.landbigfish.com/modules/articles/freshwater/showallarticles.cfm?start=133&page=2&order=name&sortorder=asc

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/16/2007 1:12:37 PM

Dave.. I really enjoyed your article, and the pics and diagrams make it much easier to envision! I wish I was a bit better with these computer thingies so I could incorporate some of the same in mine. I'll have to get my kids to teach me..

Ed.. Thanks for posting those for me! Here's Part III

Trolling - From Top to Bottom. Part III

by Chris Stack (SluggoNY) 2004
Part III - Techniques (Making it Work)

In parts I and II I covered some of the basics of trolling as well as some of the gear and gadgetry involved. In this third and final part, I'll concentrate on some of the techniques we use to make it work! To do this best, and to keep my own interest level high, we'll spend a day hunting "Hog" walleyes on the eastern end of Lake Erie. Let's go fishing!

One of the great things about walleye fishing on eastern Lake Erie is that some of the best fishing occurs during the best weather. Unlike river or shallow lake fishing, where overcast days and a good "walleye chop" seem to trigger the bite, a nice, sunny, flat August day is prime time for eastern basin Hogs. After launching the boat and checking out our equipment, we motor out of Barcelona Harbor and head due north. In fifteen minutes or so we're reading 60 feet of water. Having kept an eye on the finder on the way out, I've noticed small schools of baitfish just starting to appear on the screen so we'll begin our troll here. We'll turn slightly towards N/E on the compass, which will take us very slowly to deeper water.

Dropping the throttle all the way back only brings us down to 2.5 mph on the GPS, so we drop the trolling plate and increase our rpm's to maintain 2 mph as a starting speed. The first rod in action goes on a downrigger. Although a line-counter reel isn't really needed, I'll use one anyway. I run a long lead behind the ball when fishing for walleyes. I believe that walleyes, unlike some fish which seem attracted by the ball, tend to be "ball shy". After hooking a plump crawler onto one of my 3 ft. long worm harnesses, I feed it back about 100 feet before pinching the line between the pads of the release hooked to the downrigger ball. With the ball now at water level and the display reading 0, I now back off on the drag and hit the "down" bottom on the downrigger. Once I'm reading 50 feet on the downrigger display, I stop it's descent. I then flip on the clicker, slightly tighten the drag on the reel and then reel in the slack line while the rod's in the holder. Although the display is reading 50 feet, the ball is actually down something less than that due to the angle of the cable. By noting the amount of backward angle, I can get a pretty good idea of our speed at this point. We're now finally fishing!

For my next offering I'll put out a dipsy diver along with another crawler harness. These do require a line-counter reel, unless you prefer counting line passes on the spool. The rods I use for this are 8 foot, heavy action because of the amount of stress that these hard pulling devices put on them. The diver is attached directly to the 30# test PowerPro line with a good quality heavy snap swivel. Behind the diver is a 6 inch rubber snubber (shock absorber) followed by a 4 foot leader of 20# test fluorocarbon. A snap is used to attach the harness, which I tied with a ball bearing barrel swivel already. Once the fin on the diver is adjusted to run "right 3-1/2" and the release arm is latched, it's fed out slowly with tension on the drag. Without tension, the diver could easily spin and tangle. I like to place the rod in a holder with the audible clicker on at this point and let the dipsy feed out slowly while I start on the next rig. The clicker serves as a good reminder that I'm feeding line out. When my counter reaches 130 feet I simply tighten the star drag just to the stopping point, leaving the clicker on. Even though I'm a "rod watcher", it's great to hear that drag start clicking away! This rig was put out on the same side as the downrigger but will run fine since the diver was set to run "right". Even though they're running close to the same depth, they're probably 15 to 20 feet apart. Now we'll move to the other side of the boat.

Since we're now working on the left (port) side, I want to make sure that the in-line board that I'm going to put out is marked "left". Because I'm going to use a snap-weight behind the board to get my offering down, I'll need to use a line-counter here as well. This will also require a med./hvy. or heavy action rod but I'll go with a 9 footer which gives me a bit more action in the tip, making it easier to read. I normally run my boards off the same side because it makes comparing the rod bend as well as the board's location much easier. On a calm day it's fairly easy to tell if you're dragging a big fish, but in a heavy chop it can be pretty tough to tell. To get this rig set I'll snap a "clown" colored Renowski onto an 8 foot leader which is connected to my 30# PowerPro with (of course) a good quality ball bearing swivel. I prefer Sampo swivels, which are ridiculously expensive, but they rarely need to be replaced. The lure is first fed back about 50 feet, but this distance isn't really important. At this point I re-zero the line-counter and attach a 3 oz. snap-weight to the line. From experience (and the depth charts) I know that at 2 mph a 3 oz. weight will take my line down to a depth of about 1/3 the distance of line out. However, they're very speed dependent so they rise and fall quite drastically on turns. This is probably what makes them such effective fish finding devices. Once I've fed out 150 feet of line, I snap the in-line board on. There are several ways of attaching the boards, but I use the conventional 2 release method. The line from the rod is first connected to the side arm on the board with a tight holding "snapper" release. Then the line from the lure is connected to a "pinch style" release on the rear of the board. The rear release is the actuating point of a spring loaded flag that stands atop the board. A pull, which is adjustable, on the release will cause the flag to go down. This is a great help in helping to avoid dragging weeds or small fish around that would otherwise go unnoticed. With the board now attached, I simply place it in the water and start feeding it out under tension. The first board I'll put out about 50 feet and then set the drag to the "just holding" point with the clicker on. This process is now repeated with a second board with a few slight changes. I'll go with a 2 oz. weight to run a bit higher and use a purple colored Renowski. This second board will get fed out about half way to the first. We've actually run three boards with no problems, but it takes some practice and quick maneuvering to avoid tangles when a big fish hits on the outside one.

Assuming that we have three people aboard, I can still put out two more rigs. We'll set up another dipsy diver inside the boards. This one I'll set at "left 2", which is about half of it's maximum sideways setting. Because the diver goes down at a steep angle, plus the fact that the boards are well out to the side, there's little chance of any interference. For a final rig, we'll run a lead core rig out the back. The lead core, due to its large diameter, requires a large capacity reel like Bass Pro's "Gold Cup" line-counter. Because the line is color coded in 10 yard increments, the line-counter is a nicety, but not necessary. The weight of this line causes it to go down approximately 6 feet for each color (or 10 yards) out. I have a 50 foot leader of fluorocarbon attached to 100 yards of lead core on my reels. I'll snap another crawler harness onto this and feed back 60 yards or so of the lead core. This should put us in the 40 foot range. Like all the others, this rod is placed in a holder with the reel's clicker on and the drag set to "just hold".

As complicated as I've made this sound, this whole process can be accomplished in probably 20 minutes or so with practice. As I mentioned, I usually have one rig feeding out as I'm working on the next.

Hopefully, while I've been busy rigging, my partner has been paying attention to our speed, depth and direction and letting me know of any changes. By now we should be in about 75 feet of water and we'll start a slow zigzag pattern. This will cause the lures behind the boards to speed up and rise on the outside of a turn and slow down and drop on the inside of a turn. The other rigs will also be affected, but not nearly as much as the snap-weights behind the boards. When the first hit comes, my partner hits a button on the GPS to mark our location and tells me the speed and depth he is reading. I make a note of the lure, device, running depth and location of the rod. After the fish is brought in and the rig is re-set, we'll try to duplicate the scenario. If a second fish comes on the same rig, then I'll start trying to match the setup with some of the other rigs.

I should probably touch on the actual retrieving of these big Erie eyes once you get one on. These are not your typical sluggish 18 to 20 inch fish. Many of the walleye we catch there run 10 pounds or more and a small one will still be over 5 pounds! Although they don't run and jump like some game fish, these heavyweights love to stall and shake that big head. Because we use a non-stretch line, I find it's very important to keep the rod tip high and just stop reeling when that happens. The long rods we use are able to absorb those head shakes without pulling hooks free. As long as the fish is moving, a slow, steady retrieve will get them to netting range. We use a very large extendable net and rarely loose a fish once it's in range.

Now that I've gotten myself excited, let me close by mentioning a few things about my beloved eastern basin. Like any fishery, it has it's share of slow times but my first trip out has been embedded and keeps me going back. I had dreamt for years of that 10 pounder hanging on my wall. Well, after my first day on the water out there, the bar was raised. I caught three walleye over 10 pounds that day! The past few seasons have seen a drop in numbers of fish caught, but the size of the fish makes up for it! Feel free to contact me either through the forums or at jstack5478@aol.com if you have questions about either this article or this great fishery. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/16/2007 1:24:04 PM

Chris, great series of articles! This will go a long way to helping me be more productive when trolling. Now I need the practical experience! Thanks for sharing! <!--graemlin:;)--> <!--graemlin::)-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/17/2007 2:09:39 PM

Many good reads here. I just got to find the time to print and read them. I've got alot to learn. I thank all of you for your input. Now if I can just get that horse shoe from ED. <!--graemlin::p-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/17/2007 2:35:41 PM

There shouldn't be any problem with the fit <!--graemlin::eek:--> ...You and Ed was passin' it back a forth! <!--graemlin::rolleyes:--> <!--graemlin::p--> <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/18/2007 5:56:20 PM

lol <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/20/2007 6:24:13 PM

TTT

Originally posted by: DEEPERTHANU on 10/22/2007 1:46:28 PM

I WOULD RECOMMEND GOING OUT ON A CHARTER OR WITH A GUIDE TO EXPERIENCE SOME OF THE TROLLING TECHNIQUES MENTIONED, BEFORE YOU TRY THEM ON YOUR OWN BOAT. I FISH SALMON IN LAKE MICHIGAN AND I NORMALLY RUN TWO DOWNRIGGERS OFF OF THE BACK OF THE BOAT WITH A DIPSY AND A PLANER BOARD OFF OF EACH SIDE. I HAD NO IDEA HOW THIS ALL WORKED UNTIL WE TOOK A CHARTER OUT A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO. IN ONE TRIP OUT WITH A GUIDE I KNEW ALL THE BASICS (AND ALSO A FEW GOOD SPOTS)

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/24/2007 6:54:56 AM

DEEPERTHANU what about the people that can't afford to do what you did ??? That's what this thread is all about don't you have some info to share that you learned while on a charter ?
One thing I will say that I did when I was learn and still am learning is ONE THING AT A TIME. Work on your down rigger program get it working and feel good about how you set it up and what changes you make as the day goes on. Then move on to the next say divers same deal get the working , then you can use those two togather. Picture your spread in 3-D think what it looks like under water and what its doing have a plan and give it a go. When you bring in a tangled up mess (I have and still do every now and then) think it thru what caused it.
When Pete and WK#1 came up and fished with me for the first time I had out a 6 rod spread - 3 riggers- 1 diver - 1 inline board and 1, three Color lead core. What I didn't do was explain what to do ,(moving rods) as to which one got a fish on or where we would land the fish. The worst rod fired with a very large landlock salmon we lost it at the back of the boat because I didn't have a plan laid out...... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/24/2007 9:38:00 AM

Right Ed! I have been focusing on my inline trolling techniques, at the same time I learn about downriggers from you, Howard and an occasional charter. It takes time and a lot of thought. Not only the particular spread that you will use but the type of equipment and how it will be laid-out on your boat...Those things you will NOT learn from a charter. It is thru forums like this and getting out to learn from others that you can do some great learning. By the way, once you decide on the type trolling technique, which is determined by species and location, you'll soon discover your own "hot spots"! And that info you can take almost anywhere!

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/26/2007 4:32:17 PM

I never tried trolling before the finger lakes meet. Now I'm ordering more fishing tackle. And I thought I had enough. <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/26/2007 4:42:05 PM

quote:

Originally posted by wellsley:
I never tried trolling before the finger lakes meet. Now I'm ordering more fishing tackle. And I thought I had enough. <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/26/2007 6:36:53 PM

My wife would say I'm beyond it. <!--graemlin::p-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/26/2007 7:34:00 PM

<!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/28/2007 4:38:49 AM

Question: What do you use between the flasher and the lure? Example 24" of 15lb fluoro carbon. Is this a personal preferance or is there a guide on what to use?

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/28/2007 4:54:10 AM

quote:

Question: What do you use between the flasher and the lure?

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/28/2007 5:06:43 AM

Thanks ED
So you tie the flasher to the line, not snap it on with a snap swivel.

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/28/2007 7:01:34 AM

Frank you saw all my trolling rigs ...........they ALL had a top of the line $$$$$ ballbearing snap swivel on them if you don't use a GOOD one with rotating flasher you will get a ton of line twist to the point that they may break off and your'll loose your flasher/fly rig costing you a lot of $$$$.

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/28/2007 8:45:44 AM

When I troll for bass, I don't use a leader or flasher. I tie my line to a snap swivel and then hook that to my spinner. The same would hold true for big inline spinners for pike and musky except I would have a steel leader just infront of the bait. When I am trolling for brown trout I use cowbells or some sort of small flasher(s) and or spinners which is attached to my line using barrel and snap swivels. The other end is attached to a snubber by the same means. The other end of the snubber is attached to a 24" florocarbon leader(using barrel & snap swivels), in this case 10#, which is tied to the lure. For most everything else I tie a 40# florocarbon leader to the lure and use barrel and snap swivels to attach to the main line. The reason I use snubbers for my trout set-up is because I use 30# super braid for my main line, and it has NO give. It will rip the hook right out of a trouts mouth. I have not attempted to tye fly riggs for salmon nor anything else that requires a downrigger. One step at a time for me! I am getting a good handle on straight line trolling but have a few new things to learn. Such as "dipsey divers" and the like. I do have two manual downriggers and have laid out my boat in a way that will allow me to mount my rigger mounting board. My rigger mounts are attached to the board and the board is pre drilled, ready to mount at any time.

This is what I meant before about boat lay-out. It can be difficult to use downriggers on some types of boats. Remember straight line trolling in my boat at the Fingerlakes meet? Thought had to be givin for placement of the rod holders so that two people could easily watch and use a rod. And for my part, everything had to be easy take down & set-up for traveling and storage... <!--graemlin:;)-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/28/2007 10:03:02 AM

quote:

ALL had a top of the line $$$$$ ballbearing snap swivel on them if you don't use a GOOD one with rotating flasher you will get a ton of line twist to the point that they may break off and your'll loose your flasher/fly rig costing you a lot of $$$$.

Originally posted by: papa_d on 10/28/2007 11:47:11 AM

I prefer the "snap swivel" method when trolling too. Depending on species; I may use a 12" to 18" steel leader to protect my line. No big deal to me as I still prefer panfishing over all other. <!--graemlin::)-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/28/2007 5:22:33 PM

Next question for the masters. Do you use a snubber on the lead ball to protect the downrigger cable. I used a snubber with the dipsy diver there seems to be alot of torque with them. Takes awhile to get them adjusted so they trip properly. I got it so they don't trip just going through the water. Just got to catch a fish and see if it trips it.

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/29/2007 4:50:47 AM

quote:

Do you use a snubber on the lead ball to protect the downrigger cable.

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/29/2007 5:54:48 AM

Ed, could you explain the difference between a slide-diver and a Dipsy diver? I have a Dipsy and one that looks like an arrow but not sure we are talking about the same thing!

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 10/29/2007 6:51:35 AM

Pete with the slide diver you can run ANY distance from the diver to your lure that you want and not worry about your pole being too short or having to go hand over hand to get the fish to the boat. Down side is that diver is on your rig all the time. The one I had with you out in Ohio was a slide diver. Check this link out looks like they have improved it some more mine do not have that wire deal on the lure side od the diver.........http://www.slidediver.com/

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/29/2007 12:16:18 PM

Frank.. I'm not sure where you're talking about putting a snubber on the downrigger, but I'm sure it would really hamper the release by putting too much "give" in the system. The only place I use a snubber is behind a dipsy diver.. and that's just in case I have to help release it with an extra tug. It helps avoid pulling in just lips! I long, limber rod and a reel with a good drag thats properly set should work in most cases, even with the no-stretch lines and leaders. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/29/2007 1:07:02 PM

quote:

Originally posted by wellsley:

quote:

ALL had a top of the line $$$$$ ballbearing snap swivel on them if you don't use a GOOD one with rotating flasher you will get a ton of line twist to the point that they may break off and your'll loose your flasher/fly rig costing you a lot of $$$$.

<!--graemlin::p--> Oh thanks now I got to buy more equipment. <!--graemlin::p--> Thanks ED thats why I be asking questions. So this rookie don't learn the hard way.
Since the meet Pete I trolled a few times. I didn't tangle the lines or get snagged on the bottom. A definate plus so I consider it a success even though I didn't catch any fish. You've give me some really good ideas on how to set up the boat and portable downrigger platform . Thanks Pete.

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/29/2007 3:54:10 PM

I read an article that suggested putting a lead downrigger ball snubber between your cable and weight to extend cable life. So I looked in cabela's and sure enough they sell such a thing. Thats why I asked the question. I'm looking at a mannual downrigger and trying to figure out what other equipment I need to rig this to my 12' rowboat. Thank you for all your expertise.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Stack:
Frank.. I'm not sure where you're talking about putting a snubber on the downrigger, but I'm sure it would really hamper the release by putting too much "give" in the system. The only place I use a snubber is behind a dipsy diver.. and that's just in case I have to help release it with an extra tug. It helps avoid pulling in just lips! I long, limber rod and a reel with a good drag thats properly set should work in most cases, even with the no-stretch lines and leaders. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 12:16:12 PM

Frank.. I run braided steel downrigger cables and have the same ones that were on them in 1986 when I got them. They seem to be lasting fine without snubbers <!--graemlin:;)-->. As for going with manuals.. I'd consider putting the 150# braided line on for cables which would let you use lighter weights. Cranking them up by hand from any depth gets old pretty quick and a few pounds makes a big difference! I had one mounted on a 14' aluminum boat years ago.. just put a board across the port/stern corner and bolted it on! Worked great and caught fish as well as the electrics. Guess the fish can't tell the difference! Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/30/2007 12:37:08 PM

I hear ya Chris, about catchin' being the same. But I can see if your really into them, it would get old in a hurry...Might crank your a** off! This is what I have choosen to start with (manuals) and I will be using 8# balls.

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 2:41:31 PM

Pete.. I sounds like both you and Frank are just getting into downrigger fishing? If so.. you may also want to consider what rods and reels you'll need to go with those riggers. I've built up a rediculous collection (according to my wife), but some of my favorites are the least expensive! For Finger Lakes trolling, the big level-wind, star-drag reels that I use on Erie and Ontario are rather "overkill". I actually prefer to use spinning tackle there. The problem with most spinning reels comes when trying to lower the ball. If you open the bail it gets messy and you get severe line twist because the spool isn't revolving. You can loosen the drag, but then you need to re-adjust it. I use my old Quantum "bait-sensor" spinning reels here and the work perfectly. With dual-drags, I leave one set lightly for dropping the rigs.. and flip the switch to go to my primary drag. I don't think these reels are still available, but I know the Shimano makes a "bait-runner" and others make similar models that work the same. I have eight of these all mounted on 7' Ugly-Sticks and think they're perfect for Oneida or the Finger Lakes. Sorry if I'm babbeling, but I'm a bit bored.. resting up from this past weekend's heart catheterization. I'm also adding to my collection of heart stents! Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/30/2007 2:59:44 PM

Chris, how about 8'3" Ugly Stick with an Okuma Magda Pro, MA 20DX? I use these for straightline trolling. I also have them wound with 30# super braid. It would be nice if I could use the same gear for both... <!--graemlin:;)-->

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 5:35:00 PM

Pete.. You obviously have some quality trolling gear already that will work just fine. I put many hours of trolling on Cayuga with my Daiwa 27SG's. I believe that the Okuma 20's are about the same size as the Daiwa 27's. I use them (also spooled with 30# braid) as well as the smaller 17's on Erie, but still like the lighter spinning gear for where I can get away with it. The flex of those long Ugly Sticks is ideal for trolling with braided line. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/3/2007 6:05:31 PM

I've got a couple of muskie rod and reels. But I'm looking at a line counter rod and reel combo. Probably settle on some thing from Cabela's.

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 11/4/2007 7:28:12 AM

Frank.. I've bought a lot of "stuff" from Cabelas and think they're a great outfit. Their insulated "guidewear" is one of the best investments I've made.. but their trolling reels don't cut it! I've tried their Depthmaster Golds as well as Bass Pro's Gold Cups and neither compare to the Daiwa Sealines! If money is no object, the Shimano Tekota is better yet.. but almost double the price. They'll all certainly work and catch fish, but the quality and dependability of the Daiwa's is hard to beat. Obviously.. this is just my opinion. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris) ps.. I do like the Cabelas rods.

Originally posted by: FuzzyFishin on 11/4/2007 7:29:45 AM

wellsey, I picked up 3 gude series combos from gander mntn at about 80$. I also picked up okuma mag30 combos off e-bay. Those were 8'6" 4 cost me 150$. I do like the guideseries better.
I have found that snubbers work best with braided lines. Those vicous attacks from salmon and trout will break many braids.

Also one can count levelwinds for your depth.

I may have missed this, off the riggers I like to use long lengths when the ball is shallow.
Instead of riggers one could use pumphandles (1pnd ball) and also run a slider off the same line.

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/9/2007 3:08:15 PM

downrigger came yesterday but they forgot the free lead ball weight. I called them and its on the way. Fuzzy count levelwinds if I did that I'd only be able to go down 20'. (thats all the fingers and toes I have) <!--graemlin::p-->

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/10/2007 5:43:51 AM

I have 6 Mag 30's the drags are JUNK this could be why your braid is breaking on a strike for a salmon. Mine worked fine on the finger lakes but every year when I went to Lake Ontario one would fail. I plan on sending them to a super drag guy one time to see if he can fix them and if not they will be gone. I've been replacing them anyway. The new reel are lots of money ($179.00) a peace !!!! I got three of the Mag 30's for that price.
I like 7' rods IMHO I can move a large fish easier with that rod over my 8'6" ungly stick. Pete you had some BIG fish on with those rods and you still think your 8'3" will do a better job????

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/10/2007 5:47:15 AM

quote:

Originally posted by wellsley:
downrigger came yesterday but they forgot the free lead ball weight. I called them and its on the way. Fuzzy count levelwinds if I did that I'd only be able to go down 20'. (thats all the fingers and toes I have) <!--graemlin::p-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/11/2007 5:19:46 AM

Ed I bought me one of those line counters and they seem to work well. I thought I'd get one set up(rod and reel) to troll deep(on the downrigger). I plan to use it mostly on Cooperstown lake. For lakers and landlocks. I've been looking at the Okuma convector 30D. The Okuma catalina is twice the money but is it twice the reel? Now about rod length for trolling. I thought the longer the rod the better. <!--graemlin::eek:--> I've been misinformed. <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/11/2007 6:10:24 AM

No Frank it all a mind set to a point longer is better then it can be a pain to work with. 7 0r 7'6" are real nice to work with setting up and if you use the rod and the bend in it can handle big fish with out much trouble. This is one of those deals where what works best for me and my boat may not work for someone else out of there boat. Fighting a large fish on a 10' diver rod is a pain..........I ran and have 8'3" and 8'6" they work but for me the 7- to 7'6" work better. One draw back with the shorter rod will be hook set off the down rigger the rod releasing and pulling up the slack line longer rod more slack line pulled in and more and better hook-ups ???? Maybe but I love my 7'ers.......... <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 11/11/2007 1:42:59 PM

Ed, I did not mean to say the 8'3" is better than your set up. That is what I use for straightline trolling. When play a big fish the long rod works well with a well set drag for playing the bigger fish. I was hoping I could use the 8'3" rods with my downrigger and not have to invest in another set of rods... <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

Originally posted by: woo2 on 11/12/2007 5:03:51 AM

Hey Y'all,

Hey Pete iffin you do end up investing in some new rods, please take a look see at the ones I/m selling.

tom

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/12/2007 6:24:30 AM

quote:

Originally posted by turnip:
Ed, I did not mean to say the 8'3" is better than your set up. That is what I use for straightline trolling. When play a big fish the long rod works well with a well set drag for playing the bigger fish. I was hoping I could use the 8'3" rods with my downrigger and not have to invest in another set of rods... <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

Originally posted by: turnip on 11/12/2007 2:21:46 PM

quote:

Originally posted by wellsley:
Ed I bought me one of those line counters and they seem to work well. I thought I'd get one set up(rod and reel) to troll deep(on the downrigger). I plan to use it mostly on Cooperstown lake. For lakers and landlocks. I've been looking at the Okuma convector 30D. The Okuma catalina is twice the money but is it twice the reel? Now about rod length for trolling. I thought the longer the rod the better. <!--graemlin::eek:--> I've been misinformed. <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/12/2007 3:10:05 PM

I thought they both worked well. How can I complain I thought I caught my share of fish plus. Well at least until ED took the horseshoe back. <!--graemlin::p--> I think I'm going to go with the longer rod. Just because I have two rods one 6' and the other 6'6" both MH Muskie rods. If I'm not happy with the longer rod I'll go shorter.

awsome thread! um i have only troll'd by hold on to a rig on standerd gear, and hoping for the best, until yesterday  all this mombo jumbo info, made my head hurt ....for the beginner i would say say go with someone who know how to troll well, and it will feel in the blanks on what you have read here! trolling is awsome, so don't think it is to hard(it is if you try to read it all and just go do it) but the reading will give you practice and terms to know so when you are out you are not to blind! i watched a few time on the rigging of the line/ down riggers and it became almost to easy,(`cuz of the knowledgable people Lineside/Catfishcatcher who have there stuff together) of course i have read alot of info but it never was comlpete till yesterday! it is awsome to learn something knew....now who has downriggers forsale that will fit my canoe?  

And if your having problems making it work on your 12'er, we'll just have to get the "Bushwacker" in on the action...I think we can make it work with her!

SMF

There is some good info in this post on downriggers from what I have read and from what I know from first-hand knowledge. lbt is right, if you can fish with somebody that uses downriggers with success... you will learn some tricks of that you do not get from books. Now if you guys go to the Lake George meet this year, I might just share a few tricks because I will be trolling my home waters there for Lakers or Land Locks. I did have one of my best seasons for Lakers there this past season. 

I set this up today. Now I just got to have time to try it. My schedule is super busy until June. Then it is really busy until October. lol

You must down size the pic's on your computer first. I make mine 30% of normal. Then on the bottom of your post reply is a box that says attachments.

Click on that. Another screen will come up with a box that says browse. Click on the browse box find your pic that you want.Click on it then click on the box that says attach. After that is done go back to post repy and above the  attachment box should be your attachment. Click on the little box and it will open it. Then right click on the pic then left click on copy. Then go back to post repy right click on where you want to post the pic then left click on paste.

You must down size the pic's on your computer first. I make mine 30% of normal. Then on the bottom of your post reply is a box that says attachments.

Click on that. Another screen will come up with a box that says browse. Click on the browse box find your pic that you want.Click on it then click on the box that says attach. After that is done go back to post repy and above the  attachment box should be your attachment. Click on the little box and it will open it. Then right click on the pic then left click on copy. Then go back to post repy right click on where you want to post the pic then left click on paste.

Yes Wellsley we do need to read this post from time to time, especially now that the winter season is around the corner. We won't be doing too much trolling for awhile and we need to keep our mind sharp on the subject. Oh I miss being out on the lake... my baby has been winterized and put into storage.

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I am keeping busy finding some new tackle and gear for the next trolling season. Soon I will clean up some of my reels, lube them up and respool them for the Spring. I have to be prepared when ice goes out.

This was one of the best topics we did on the BB...and I'm glad it made it during the "transition". A LOT of great info by many guys in here.

I wish some of the other topics had made it over here too