Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 8:34:37 AM

Individual Links to Various Lure Mfg's and Retailers

http://www.acshiners.com/index.htm

http://www.ambushlures.com/

http://www.anglersmart,com

http://www.ausspinlures.com/

http://www.awesomebaits.com/

http://www.bagleybait.com

http://www.banditlures.com/

http://www.billstackle.com/index.html

http://www.bottlecaplure.com/

http://www.buckperry.com

http://www.buzzblade.com/

http://www.chatterbait.com

http://www.creme.zoovy.com/

http://www.culprit.com

http://www.daveslures.com Dave's Kaboom baits

http://www.dardevle.net/dardevlecgi/index.pl?init=1 (Eppinger Daredevles)

http://www.delawaretackle.com/

http://www.dicksprostylelures.com/

http://www.doalures.com/

http://www.egblures.com/

http://www.enlure.com/catalog/

http://www.eriedearie.com/home.html

http://www.felmleelures.com/about_us.htm

http://www.ffo-tackle.com/Index.cfm

http://www.fishbites.com/

http://www.fishinglures.com/

http://www.fish-n-spin.com/

http://www.flydepot.com

http://www.gapen.com/

http://www.grapentin.com/index.html

http://www.greatlures.com/store/ (Snagproof)

http://www.hildebrandt.net/index.html

http://www.huddlestondeluxe.com

http://www.izorlineeast.com/LurePictures.htm

http://www.jerrysflies.com/index.htm

http://www.jerryslures.com/

http://www.kabukibaits.com/

http://www.landbigfish.com

http://www.lebaron.ca/index_en.html

http://www.lindylittlejoe.com/

http://www.luckystrikebaitworks.com/product.asp?p=33

http://www.luhrjensen.com/

http://www.lures.info/

http://www.make-your-own-fishing-lures.com/index.html

http://www.mannsbait.com

http://www.matzuo.com

http://www.megabait.net

http://www.mglures.com

http://www.mickthill.com

http://www.midwesttroutflies.com/

http://www.millenniumlures.com/ Sold at http://www.elures.com/

http://www.minimagiclures.com/index.html

http://www.msslammer.com

http://www.munchbaits.com

http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/web/index.php/id/1

http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/web/index.php/id/1

http://www.naturefriend.com

http://www.normanlures.com http://www.normanlures.com/nlstore/catalog.asp

http://www.northlandtackle.com/

http://www.pacemarine.com/ (Pace Megabait)

http://www.panthermartin.com/flash/cover.asp

http://www.photonlures.com/page/products

http://www.radlures.com/

http://www.rat-l-trap.com/home.php

http://www.yellowbirdproducts.com/index.html

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 8:31:07 AM

Hi all... <!--graemlin::D-->

I created this ONE topic to consolidate the Links, Tips and BB discusions that we've had over the months. I decided to put these things in ONE singel thread. This way it will be easier to keep the information alive, and new people won't have to "jump" around so much trying to find this stuff and related information... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Enjoy and good fishing!

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 9:13:50 AM

State by State AND Canadian DNR Websites <!--graemlin::D-->

A while back someone gave me a list of all the states DNR websites... <!--graemlin::cool:-->

I had to go through them as some of the links were dead, and some sites had changed their "names"... <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

But here it is...I hope some of you will find it useful... <!--graemlin:;)-->

If you want, you can copy these (CTRL + C) and paste them into a Word document...the links will stay "hot"...



ALABAMA
Dept. of Cons. & Natural Resources
64 North Union Street
Montgomery, AL 36130
(334) 242-3465
http://www.dcnr.state.al.us/agfd/

ALASKA
Fish & Game Department
P.O. Box 3-25526
Juneau, AK 99802
(907) 465-4100
http://www.state.ak.us/adfg/


ARIZONA
Fish & Game Department
2222 West Greenway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85023-4312
(602) 942-3000
http://www.gf.state.az.us


ARKANSAS
Game & Fish Commission
#2 Natural Resources Drive
Little Rock, AR 72205
(501) 223-6300
http://www.agfc.state.ar.us


CALIFORNIA
Department of Fish & Game
1416 Ninth Street
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 653-7664
http://www.dfg.ca.gov/


COLORADO
Department of Natural Resources
1313 Sherman Street, Room 718
Denver, CO 80203
(303) 866-3311
http://wildlife.state.co.us/



CONNECTICUT
Dept. of Environmental Protection
State Office Building
165 Capitol Avenue
Hartford, CT 06106
(806) 424-3010
http://dep.state.ct.us/


DELAWARE
Dept. of Natural Resources & Environmental Control
89 Kings Highway, PO Box 1401
Dover, DE 19901
(302) 739-4403
http://www.dnrec.state.de.us/fw/


DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
Dept. of Environmental Services
2100 Martin Luther King Ave. SE.
Washington, DC 20020
(202) 645-6064
NO website

FLORIDA
Dept. of Environmental Protection
3900 Commonwealth Blvd.
Tallahassee, FL 32399-3000
(904) 488-1554
http://www.floridaconservation.org//
http://lakewatch.ifas.ufl.edu/MapList.htm


GEORGIA
Dept. of Natural Resources
East Towers, Suite 1252
205 Butler Street SE.
Atlanta, GA 30334
(404) 656-3500
http://www.DNR.State.GA.US/


HAWAII
Dept. of Land & Natural Resources
1151 Punchbowl Street, Room 130
Honolulu, HI 96813
(808) 587-0400
http://www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/


IDAHO
Dept. of Fish & Game
PO Box 25
Boise, ID 83707
(208) 334-3700
http://www2.state.id.us/fishgame/

ILLINOIS
Dept. of Natural Resources
One Natural Resources Way
Springfield, IL 62702-1271
(217) 782-6302
http://dnr.state.il.us/
http://www.ifishillinois.org


INDIANA
Department of Natural Resources
402 West Washington Street, Room 160
Indianapolis, IN 46204-2748
(317) 232-4200
http://www.state.in.us/dnr/


IOWA
Department of Natural Resources
East Ninth & Grand Avenue
Wallace Building
Des Moines, IA 50319-0034
(515) 281-5145
http://www.iowadnr.com/

KANSAS
Dept. of Wildlife & Parks
900 Jackson Street, Suite 502
Topeka, KS 66612-1220
(913) 296-2281
http://www.kdwp.state.ks.us/


KENTUCKY
Dept. of Fish & Wildlife Res.
#1 Game Farm Road
Frakfort, KY 40601
(502) 564-3400
http://www.kdfwr.state.ky.us/


LOUISIANA
Dept. of Wildlife & Fisheries
PO Box 98000
Baton Rouge, LA 70898-9000
(504) 765-2800
http://www.wlf.state.la.us/


MAINE
Dept. of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife
284 State Street, Station #41
Augusta, ME 04333
(207) 287-2766
http://www.state.me.us/doc/


MARYLAND
Department of Natural Resources
580 Taylor Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21401
(410) 260-8100
http://www.dnr.state.md.us/


MASSACHUSETTS
Dept. of Fisheries, Wildlife & Environmental Law Enforcement
100 Cambridge Street, Room 1901
Boston, MA 02202
(617) 724-1614
http://www.state.ma.us/dfwele/dfw/


MICHIGAN
Department of Natural Resources
Box 30257
Lansing, MI 48909
(517) 373-9900 or 373-1270
http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/


MINNESOTA
Department of Natural Resources
500 Lafayette Road
St. Paul, MN 55155-4040
(651) 296-6157
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/


MISSISSIPPI
Dept. of Wildlife, Fisheries & Parks
2906 North 8th Street, PO Box 451
Jackson, MS 39205
(601) 362-9212
http://www.mdwfp.com/


MISSOURI
Department of Natural Resources
PO Box 176
Jefferson City, MO 65102
(800) 334-6946 (recording)
http://www.dnr.state.mo.us/


MONTANA
Dept. of Fish, Wildlife & Parks
1420 East Sixth Avenue
Helena, MT 59620
(406) 444-2535
http://www.fwp.state.mt.us/


NEBRASKA
Game & Parks Commission
2200 North 33rd Street
PO Box 30370
Lincoln, NE 68503-0370
(402) 471-0641
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/


NEVADA
Dept. of Conservation & Nat. Resources
PO Box 10678
Reno, NV 89520
(775) 688-1500 (Fish & Game)
(775) 687-4384 (Parks)
http://www.nevadadivisionofwildlife.org/


NEW HAMPSHIRE
Department of Fish & Game
2 Hazen Drive
Concord, NH 03301
(603) 271-3422
http://www.wildlife.state.nh.us/


NEW JERSEY
Dept. of Fish, Game & Wildlife
PO Box 400
Trenton, NJ 08625-0400
(609) 292-2965
http://www.state.nj.us/dep/


NEW MEXICO
Game & Fish Department
141 East Devargas, PO Box 25112
Santa Fe, NM 87504
(505) 827-7911
http://www.gmfsh.state.nm.us/


NEW YORK
Dept. of Environmental Conservation
Division of Fish & Wildlife
50 Wolf Road
Albany, NY 12233
(518) 457-5690
http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/dfwmr/index.html


NORTH CAROLINA
Wildlife Resources Commission
Archdale Building
512 North Salisbury Street
Raleigh, NC 27604-1188
(919) 733-3391
http://www.state.nc.us/Wildlife/


NORTH DAKOTA
State Game & Fish Department
100 North Bismarck Expressway
Bismarck, ND 58501
(701) 328-6300
http://www.state.nd.us/gnf/


OHIO
Department of Natural Resources
Fountain Square
Columbus, OH 43224
(614) 265-6565
http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/wildlife/


OKLAHOMA
Department of Wildlife Conservation
1801 North Lincoln, PO Box 53465
Oklahoma City, OK 73152
(405) 521-3851
http://www.wildlifedepartment.com
http://www.wildlifedepartment.com/fishing.htm


OREGON
Department of Fish & Wildlife
2501 SW First Avenue
Portland, OR 97201
(503) 229-5410
http://www.dfw.state.or.us/


PENNSYLVANIA
Dept. of Environmental Res.
Public Liaison Office
400 Market Street
Harrisburg, PA 17105
(717) 783-2300
Fish: http://www.fish.state.pa.us/
Game: http://www.state.pa.us/PA_Exec/PGC/index.htm


RHODE ISLAND
Dept. of Environmental Management
235 Promenade Street
Providence, RI 02908
(401) 222-2774
http://www.state.ri.us/

http://zog.doa.state.ri.us/fw_detail.htm (Interactive Freshwater Fishing Map)


SOUTH CAROLINA
Dept. of Natural Resources
Rembert C. Dennis Building
100 Assembly, PO Box 167
Columbia, SC 29202
(803) 734-3888
http://www.dnr.state.sc.us/


SOUTH DAKOTA
Game, Fish & Parks Department
523 East Capitol
Pierre, SD 57501-3182
(605) 773-3485
http://www.state.sd.us/gfp/


TENNESSEE
Wildlife Resource Agency
PO Box 40747
Ellington Agriculture Center
Nashville, TN 37204
(615) 781-6500
http://www.state.tn.us/twra/


TEXAS
Parks & Wildlife Department
4200 Smith School Road
Austin, TX 78744
(512) 389-4800
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/


UTAH
Department of Natural Resources
1594 West North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT 84116-3156
(801) 5838-7200
http://www.nr.utah.gov/


VERMONT
Agency of Natural Resources
103 South Main Street
Waterbury, VT 05671-0301
(802) 241-3600
http://www.anr.state.vt.us/


VIRGINIA
Dept. of Conservation & Recreation
203 Governor Street, Suite 302
Richmond, VA 23219
(804) 786-2121
http://www.dgif.state.va.us/


WASHINGTON
Department of Fish & Wildlife
600 Capital Way N.
Olympia, WA 98501
(360) 902-2200
http://www.wa.gov/wdfw/


WEST VIRGINIA
Department of Natural Resources
1900 Kanawha Blvd. E.
Charleston, WV 25305
(304) 558-3380
http://www.dnr.state.wv.us/


WISCONSIN
Department of Natural Resources
101 Webster Street
Madison, WI 53707
(608) 266-2621
http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/


WYOMING
Game & Fish Department
5400 Bishop Blvd.
Cheyenne, WY 82006-0001
(307) 777-4600
http://gf.state.wy.us/

NEW Canadian Provinces NEW

http://www3.gov.ab.ca/srd/fw/index.html
(Alberta Fish & Wildlife)

http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/fw/index.html
(British Columbia Fish & Wildlife)

http://www.gov.mb.ca/conservation/sitemap.html
(Manitoba Conservation Dept sitemap fisheries, wildlife etc )

http://www.gnb.ca/0078/fw/index_fw.asp
(New Brunswick Fish & Wildlife)

http://www.gov.nf.ca/env/
(Newfoundland & Labrador Dept. of Environment & Conservation)

http://www.nwtwildlife.rwed.gov.nt.ca/
(Northwest Territories Wildlife & Fisheries)

http://www.gov.ns.ca/nsaf/home.htm
(Nova Scotia Agriculture & Fisheries)

http://www.gov.ns.ca/natr/
(Nova Scotia DNR)

http://www.nunavutparks.com/on_the_land/index.cfm
(Nunavut Parks – couldn’t find a “DNR” type link)

http://www.nunavuttourism.com/Master.ASP?ID=41
(Nunavut Hunting & Fishing webpage)

http://www.mnr.gov.on.ca/mnr/fwmenu.html
(Ontario Fish & Wildlife)

http://www.gov.pe.ca/af/agweb/index.php3?number=78204
(Prince Edward Island Agriculture, Fisheries & Aquaculture – Recreational Fishing)

http://www.mrnfp.gouv.qc.ca/english/home.jsp
(Quebec Ministry of Natural Resources)

http://www.se.gov.sk.ca/fishwild/
(Saskatchewan Fishing & Wildlife)

http://www.environmentyukon.gov.yk.ca/main/index.shtml
(Yukon Dept. of Environment)

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 9:18:31 AM

HELP with REELS and places to find Reel Part / Schematics and Rod Building Supplies

Baitcaster's Casting & Reeling Symptoms and Fixes

1. Drag set too loose. You might just have to tighten your drag a little. On some reels the spool won’t turn if the drag is set to “zero”.

2. If you are using a “super braid”, and you attached it to a “smooth” type arbor with a regular “arbor knot”, the line is so “slick” that it will turn on the spool. Use a recommended knot (a Uni-knot is one) or put some mono backing on first. You can also put a bit of double-stick tape on the arbor.

3. Check to see that the pawl is moving side to side. The screw can loosen up or even completely fall out.

4. When you press the “thumbar” or free-spool button, is it actually disengaging the spool? This could be sticking or broken.

5. A dirty reel (inside) can cause troubles too. Sometimes the grease can get old and caked up. Make sure it’s clean and lubed properly. Cold weather can exaggerate this.

6. Check to see that the “cast control” knob isn’t screwed down too tight. If it is too tight, be careful with your cast after you loosen it up, as you could end up with a backlash.

7. Check to make sure that line hasn’t wedged itself between the edge of the spool and the edge of the frame. This can happen especially if the spool is over-filled.

8. Baitcasting reels have a difficult time with really light lures (say anything less than 1/8 oz). If you need to use small / light lures, use a spinning outfit.

9. Make a video of your "take-down"...you can use it if you have problems getting it back together.

10. When you take a reel apart, you can use empty egg cartons (number each "compartment") and put each part in (in order) as you take them off. THen when you put it back together, you should be able to go in "reverse order".

As a last resort, (or 1st step if you aren’t into all this “do it yourself” stuff), take it to a repair shop. Most of them are pretty reputable (if they weren’t, they’d be out of business fairly quickly). Ask around for a reference.

For you lady anglers, it would help to take a male friend along...
Unfortunately, there are SOME places that don't give you gals a fair shake... <!--graemlin::(--> ...
It happened to my Mom in a Cabela's store... <!--graemlin::o-->

My hats off to WadeK, ouchitabassangler, Robert Horn, wme96, and nick barr for having contributed to this list (while we were trying to help Fish-Hunter)!

quote:

Originally posted by jims out fishing:
To remove monofilament line that is wedged in a place you can't get at, spray a little bug spray on it...the deet will eat the mono only take a few minutes then wash it up real good

quote:

Originally posted by okuma500:
If you have the type of spinning reel that has the dust connector screw go to the hardware store in your neighborhood and get the weakest Lock Tite, usually red and just apply a drop to the threads, but remember not to tighten the screw too tightly because it will effect the action of the bearings, seal, and optimal operation of your reel.

quote:

Originally posted by Storey Teller:
<!--graemlin::)--> In a pinch use fingernail polish on the threads tighten nut or screw properly and let polish dry usually a few minutes. I've used this method a number of times and its worked pretty good. TIP make sure wife or girlfriend doen'nt know your using her polish to fix your fishing gear they get really testy when they find out.

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
This person is apparently in CLEARWATER, FLORIDA.
Authorized Dealer in reel parts for: Diawa, Penn, and Shimano.
email addy. topicz@hotmail.com
phone # is [727] 441 - 9084 --- Ask for John.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 9:20:18 AM

Identifying Fish etc...

Here's a link to a Virginia Tech website that has photos of the various fish families grouped together...
<!--graemlin::cool:-->
Check it out when you get a chance... <!--graemlin:;)-->

http://www.cnr.vt.edu/efish/

quote:

Originally posted by fishingseal:
If you would like to know more about freshwater fish, check out Colorado State University! I helped with the ichthyology lab (fish lab), graduated, and now work for the Larval Fish Laboratory. I can tell you whether you have a yellow or log perch, walleye, or darter when they are only 3 to 5 millimeters long!
Here are a couple of the websites, as well as my workplace!
http://www.cnr.colostate.edu/lfl/
http://www.cnr.colostate.edu/class_info/fw301/

quote:

Originally posted by robynr:
Just for fun, try this identification test http://mvff.tripod.com/Ohio_Fish_ID_Quiz.pdf Was harder than I thought. What do ya all think?

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 9:26:52 AM

Finding Books and Videos on the Internet

I just learned a new little "trick" while doing a book search for jnewby... <!--graemlin::D-->

He had been looking for a NAFC title called "Live Bait Tactics"... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Of course, EYE did a title search on both...

http://www.bookfinder.com

AND

Amazon.com Advanced Book Search

But didn't find a single book... <!--graemlin::(--> <!--graemlin::(-->

BUT THEN... <!--graemlin::D-->

I did a search using JUST the ISBN for the book...and found 16 copies at various book stores... <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Check it out...ISBN 0914697552 search

So the next time you are searching, and have no luck...try my new little trick...it just may help... <!--graemlin:;)-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/2/2005 9:59:49 AM

Searching the Internet

Hi again all.... <!--graemlin::cool:-->

There isn't a SINGLE one of us that didn't start out as a "rookie" to the Internet... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

And there's no question that some of us have been lucky to have known people willing to share tips or learned things on our own... <!--graemlin:;)-->

I found a website a while back with a list of Internet search tips and a list of various search engines... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

HOPEFULLY some of you will be able to use this info, and share it with others in your "inner circle"... <!--graemlin:;)-->

AND...if any of you have any other tips on searches, please post them up here so we ALL may learn something new to help our lives be easier... <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Enjoy!

Search Engine Links

http://www.askjeeves.com...........http://www.alltheweb.com

http://www.hotbot.com……………..http://www.teoma.com

http://www.altavista.com……..….http://www.gigablast.com

http://www.looksmart.com……http://www.lycos.com

http://search.msn.com………………http://search.netscape.com

http://dmoz.org/…………………………..http://www.dogpile.com

http://www.kartoo.com………..….http://www.surfwax.com

http://web.curryguide.com/…………..http://www.excite.com

http://www.fazzle.com/………………. http://gimenei.com/

http://www.infogrid.com…………. http://www.infonetware.com


http://www.ixquick.com/………….http://www.meceoo.com/

http://www.1blink.com…………….. http://www.profusion.com

http://www.queryserver.com/web.htm…….. http://turbo10.com

http://www.search.com ……………http://www.webcrawler.com

http://www.zapmeta.com…………http://www.familyfriendlysearch.com

http://www.searchy.co.uk…………

http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/internet_utilities/watson.html

http://www.bjorgul.com/

http://www.thrall.org/proteus.html……http://www.queryster.com

http://www.yurweb.com……………http://www.iboogie.tv/

http://www.searchonline.info/

This one actually compares Yahoo AND Google for the EXACT same search...it points out LIKE hits and also the differences...check it out!

http://www.langreiter.com/exec/yahoo-vs-google.html

SEARCH TIPS

If you have done searches in the past, then you know that sometimes ALOT of the info retrieved by the search isn't what you are looking for... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Many search engines will have a link called "Advanced Search"...here you can usually look for specific phrases (same as using parenthesises "D") AND several words (same as adding a + sign in front of words) at the same time. And you can even weed out unwanted "hits" by placing certain words in the "None of these words" section (same as using a - sign in front of an unwanted word).

It also helps to search ONLY pages in English, unless you can read another language. <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Different types of punctuation / signs will bring back different results.

For example, I did a search in the basic Yahoo search screen just now for "fishing articles", and got 96,400 hits...I had done the same one a couple of hours ago and got 102,000 hits... <!--graemlin::confused:-->

THEN I did the search as fishing + articles, and got over 3,000,000 hits... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Even with these tips, searching can be frustrating. But keep trying a variety of the engines, different words and phrases, and sooner or later you should find what you are looking for...(if it's OUT there on a web page <!--graemlin::confused:-->)

Unfortunately, many companies PAY the search engines for their webpages to show up near the top of a Search, regardless of how relative they are...

ONE trick to eliminate some of the "garbage" is to recognize those webpages that have something in common, but aren't of any use to your search...you THEN put the "common" word of those webpages in the "none of these word" part of the Advanced Search, which should make those disappear...

For example, let's say that I was looking for info on muskie fishing....and I typed that into the search window...chances are I got alot of hits that named resorts, property for sale, etc... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

If I wasn't looking for that "related" info, I could go to the Advanced Search" screen, and add the words "resorts" and "property" to the line "None of these words", which should then filter out all those webpages... <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/3/2005 11:25:23 AM

Here's a couple of links to websites that have fish weight estimation charts by using length ONLY...

http://members.aol.com/ladoz2/cnr.html

Found this Bass Weight Estimator Chart over in the Bass thread....thanks fisherman23340 <!--graemlin::cool:-->

fishermen23340 posted March 19, 2005 02:56 AM
For those times when your out there with a nice bass and no scale use this formula to get a close estimate of the weight of bass. Length X girth X girth over 800 = weight. This will give you a close estimate of the weight of the bass. It is the formula most biologist use to predict the weight for many freshwater species including black bass.

Here is a table you can use as a reference in estimating weight. First column LMB, Second SMB, third spotted bass.

LG..LMB...SMB...SPB
12" 0.90- 0.92- 0.86

13" 1.16- 1.18- 1.12

14" 1.47- 1.50- 1.42

15" 1.83- 1.87- 1.77

16" 2.25- 2.30- 2.18

17" 2.73- 2.80- 2.65

18" 3.28- 3.36- 3.18

19" 3.89- 4.00- 3.79

20" 4.59- 4.70- 4.46

21" 5.36- 5.50- 5.22

22" 6.22- 6.38- 6.07

23" 7.17- 7.35- 7.00

24" 8.24- 8.43- 8.02

25" 9.35 9.60 9.14

26" 10.06- 10.89- 10.38

27" 11.95- 12.28- ----

28" 13.42- ---- ----

29" 15.01- ---- ----

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/3/2005 2:39:46 PM

Here's a Website that will help you find baitshops all over the US

Thanks TxsBassGal <!--graemlin::cool:-->

http://www.baitnet.com/index.php

Originally posted by: fishermen23340 on 3/6/2005 4:12:19 AM

For anyone interested in walleye here's a good site www.walleyehunter.com

Originally posted by: Fish81156 on 3/21/2005 8:35:02 PM

A great Site for weather info. you can check history and current to see weather patterns etc. great for planning a fishing trip or getting ready for a tournament. www.wunderground.com

Originally posted by: John C. Taylor on 3/28/2005 6:32:52 PM

WOW David!!!!!!

Anybody ever tell you that you are a wealth of knowledge and information? If not, let me be the first because you really are. Now I'm going to have to schedule about an hour of my computer time to sort through all this good stuff.

Thanks for the links.

Later,------JCT

Originally posted by: WalleyeWayne on 3/29/2005 5:31:28 AM

I second that JCT <!--graemlin:;)-->. Thanks Dave, and ya gotta know everyone loves "one-stop-shopping" <!--graemlin::)-->.

Originally posted by: kevin hardesty on 4/1/2005 5:57:07 PM

here some fishing web sites for ne "rookies" like me are ne one who wants 2 no more bout bass fishing
bassdozer.com
bassresource.com
bassinusa.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 4/7/2005 3:30:04 PM

Resources for Bank Fisherman

I grew up fishing smaller rivers in Minnesota, and for a good portion of that time, didn't have a boat, so I fished from shore or waded. I also spent time on lakeshores...

The biggest challenge for shore fishermen is having access. I was lucky to have known several people on several rivers, so they weren't much of a problem for me...but lakes were a different story, as many lake home owners don't care to have strangers on their property (regardless of their reasoning).

Here are some links to various products that will help you find places that have public access.

http://www.delorme.com/atlasgaz/

http://www.fishinghotspots.com/fhsinet/

http://www.fishsniffer.com/maps/

http://www.sportsmansconnection.com/

http://www.fishermaps.com

The Delorme Co. has map books for every state in the US, and will help you find your way to various waters in each state. Each book lists fishable waterways within the state.

The other 4 links are to companies with maps / map books that will generally show public access to various lakes. I own several, and would NOT give them up for anything...

Another option you can do is to contact your local DNR / Fisheries / etc...office. Many of these know whether a specific body of water has public access or not.

And when it gets right down to it, it wouldn't hurt to ask a property owner for access. You could offer to split your catch with her/him. And make darn sure that if you do get access, that you don't leave a mess. No property owner likes having to clean up after some one else.

And last but not least, folks in Minnesota are lucky to have this...

http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/maps/compass.html

I don't know how many states have something similar, but a little searching on the web could help you out tremendously. You can start by checking out the "State by State / Canadian DNR" list near the top of THIS thread...

Good luck, and I hope something here helps you to new waters and great days!

Something that I like to use when I go bank fishing...
especially when I'm doing alot of moving around...http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/fhp/lakes/lakemap/ (Wisconsin DNR lakemaps)

http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod/maps.html US Geological Survey

http://www.fishweb.com/recreation/fishing/lakes/ (Michigan)

http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10367_24463---,00.html (Michigan DNR lakemaps)

http://www.comm.media.state.mn.us/bookstore/bookstore.asp (Minnesota Bookstore)

http://www.clarksonmap.com/lakemaps.html

http://www.mappquest.com

http://www.topozone.com/

http://www.randmcnally.com/

http://www.streammaps.com/

http://www.streammaps.com/statelist.php

johncail Posted December 15, 2004
for toting my gear, food etc. i use an Alpine back pack and for stripers i use an Alpine duffel bag. this is from Alpine beer, they were giving them away in there 24's so i stocked up a couple of years worth of packs and packed away a few at the same time!!!
often the most valuable item in the pack is a roll of t paper. this has saved my buddies socks numerous times (and is why i carry a whole roll!!lol)
i add in a can of kipper snacks or sardines and all the fishin'gear i feel like hauling along the bank. i don't take a chair but i do take an old hot seat or 2, very useful on cold or rainy days.
if a fire is legal at the time i also take a light duty cooking rack with as long a handle as i can find. if a fire isn't legal i take a light flexable filleting "board". and if it's a fish that i have to keep whole lenght i of course take some plastic bags. these bags come in handy when it's time to collect your junk and everbody elses too and leave the stream clean!!

oh, and i take a small tarp in the striper duffel. since it's almost all night fishing i have used it as a shelter several times on cold windy nights.


davesett2000
Something else EYE like to carry (where permitted) is a machette...that way IF I can create a better spot to cast / fish from or create a clearer path / trail I can do so...

Of course, I'm NOT trying to clear-cut any places ...or leave a mess...


fishnfilet Posted January 25, 2005
speaking for tips for bank fishermen.I bring along my saw horses to prop my poles up with….I get alot of stares when I set up, but after they see the way it's set up they all say "cool, I always wanted to do that!" Dave... fishing in and around the Finger Lakes of New York

ouachitabassangler Posted January 29, 2005
An idea that works really well here is something I advise shore fishermen to offer. Approach a property owner with a dock and make an offer they likely won't refuse. If you are unknown to them try to get someone well known to give you a letter of recommendation. Offer to do these things for permanent fishing rights shared by the owner.

1. Offer to supply labor to replace parts on the dock supplied by the owner.
2. Offer to keep the dock clean, and clean their shoreline. You keep all baits you find there.
3. Offer to install and maintain brush piles if allowed on the lake.
4. Agree to always leave the dock cleaner than when you got there.
5. Offer to share fish caught.
6. Respect parking requirements of the owner and never bring a buddy without permission. Make it known up front who you might bring with you.
7. Last ditch offer is to agree to an annual fee you can live with. As access tightens fees are inevitable, just as with hunting rights and the necessity of leasing hunting rights.

In most cases, if you present yourself well, first meeting dressed nicely, not rolling up in a junker spewing smoke, loud music, etc., the owner will require only one of the above if any at all. Mess the place up once and you are toast on the lake. People are generous as a rule and will give an angler a chance unless already burned.


papa_d Posted January 29, 2005
HI JIM; I'VE INCOUNTERED A SITUATION SIMILAR TO THE ONE YOU MENTIONED. AFTER I DID MOST EVERYTHING YOU MENTIONED, THE LAND OWNER STILL REFUSED SAYING THAT THE AREA NEIGHBORS HAD AN AGREEMENT "NOT" TO ALLOW ANY NON RESIDENTS TO USE THEIR PROPERTY FOR ACCESS. THE REASON BEING THAT THEY DIDN'T WANT THE LAKE OVER RUN BY STRANGERS AND ALSO TAKING FISH THAT THEY THEMSELVES COULD HAVE. I TOOK THE HINT AND NEVER WENT BACK TO THAT LAKE. LATER ON THE SAME YEAR I DISCOVERED THAT ON THE ROPAD TO THE LIL COMUNITY THERE WAS A SPOT ON THE MAIN ROAD THAT HAD A POND ON EACH SIDE OF THE ROAD. I FISHED THE PONDS AND CAUGHT SEVERAL BASS AND A SMALL NORTHERN PIKE. ONE TIME I TOOK MY CANOE ON THE POND AND FOUND A SECLUDED PASS TO THE LAKE THEY WOULDN'T LET ME USE. I NOW HAVE A ROUTE TO THE LAKE FROM PUBLIC HIGHWAY LAND"UNPOSTED"

Ouachitabassangler Posted January 29, 2005
What a jerk to do you like that! Well, I don't propose doing all that stuff or any of it for that matter before fishing the guy's dock. Get an agreement then start using it in good faith by taking a bag of trash home that first trip. Before getting too deep in the deal you ought to have an idea whether it will work or not.

Appears you really hit on a good solution anyway. No public launch ramp on the lake?


papa_d Posted January 30, 2005
HEY JIM; NO PUBLIC ACCESS AT ALL. THE LAKE IS INTIRELY LANDLOCKED BY HOME/LAND OWNERS. SINCE THEN THEY HAVE EVEN POSTED THE ROAD ITSELF AS A PRIVET /NO ACCESS ROAD. TRESPASSERS WILL BE PROSICUTED...

ouachitabassangler Posted January 30, 2005
Any lots for sale there? Maybe a fishing club could go together to buy a vacant lot. Wouldn't that frost them?

papa_d Posted January 31, 2005 02:27 AM
I DON'T KNOW IF THERE ANY AVAILABLE; BUT COULD BE WORTH CHECKING INTO. I'D LOVE TO LIVE ON A LAKE OR POND, OR JUST HAVE TO CAMP ON WEEKENDS TOO. ANOTHER OF MY FAIRY TALE DREAMS!...PAPA_D

davesett2000
Something that I have found useful when exploring new areas is a pair of binoculars and / or a monocular (small telescope)...

From a high bank (or if you can climb a decent size tree), you can get a good vantage point of the water, and possibly even see fish, or at the very least, rocks and other structure / cover. A great time to explore is during low water periods. Take along a small paper tablet and make notes of what you see...that way, when the water level goes back up, you'll have the "skinny" on possible "hiding places".

Celliach Posted June 16, 2005 10:09 AM
Wear polarized sunglasses. These can let you see into the water better than the naked eye. Seeing the fish before you spook them by blindly walking up to the shore has caught me many a nice bass both in rivers and ponds

ouachitabassangler Posted July 17, 2005 04:10 PM
While using those polarized glasses, be sure to wait until that bass is looking away from you before casting its direction and be sure to over shoot it enough the lure landing in the water doesn't spook it. If the bass turns before getting the lure to it, wait for it to turn again looking in the lure's direction.

I bankfish a lot more than many boaters do, getting out for exercise, or just getting out of the boat for a change, picking up great lures, finding secret hiding places for fish not visible from a boat. I found a little cavern in a rock bluff that way that always holds lots of fish, a place I never see people casting to. I can count on one really nice bass from it any one day a week. It constantly replenishes with bass that like it because they can sit in the shade in the heat of the day and watch baitfish swim by over a saddle between islands. It pays to get out and walk around.

davesett2000 Posted July 28, 2005 11:20 AM
Another OVERLOOKED aspect of bank fishing is that you can get to places that sometimes can't be reached with a boat

Many times this ends up being rarely-fished waters

davesett2000 Posted August 01, 2005 07:14 AM
Agree with THAT GDN1

But this ALSO goes to show that an angler who takes the time to look over ALL areas with a keen eye can sometimes be rewarded by finding a "jewel" of a spot that may be overlooked by other anglers

I still remember times on the rivers back in Minn when I was growing up when I wasn't having any luck with the fish...but also took the time to explore new areas and make notes about what I saw...a good many times these places that I took those notes about rewarded me with a fish or two when various conditions (water level, clarity, time of year etc...) were different

Thanks for the reminder Jim "to be observant"

dawsonb Posted August 15, 2005 10:49 AM
Great tips Dave and gang. I would like to add a few more things. Along with the glasses a hat with a dark undersided bill helps with reflecting light and helps you see into the water. The polarized sunglasses a must for every situation except night fishing. Be aware of your clothing too. Don't wear bright colored clothes. Try to match the surroundings. It is just like hunting. The main problem with shore fishing is finding a place to do it. Sure there are all kinds of parks and they might have good fishing but usually it is so crowded and overfished in those areas. Try to find access under bridges,dams, local ponds, boat ramps, as well as parks. Always know local limits and laws.

Other BASIC tips

1. Look before you cast Before you walk to the bank and thoughtlessly spook fish, take a few minutes to watch the pond. You may see baitfish activity or perhaps even feeding bass. Study the shoreline for likely bass cover and decide ahead of time how you’ll approach it. Stay concealed: Walk or stand in tree-shaded areas, if possible, instead of being out in the sun. This makes you less visible to fish, which also tend to lurk along shaded shorelines.
2. Find the channel There may be a small creek entering one end of the pond, with a meandering channel that will likely extend into the pond itself. Dead, standing trees may mark the channel edges. Try casting a buzzbait beyond each tree trunk and sputtering it back within inches of the timber. Then work the deeper channel slowly with a weighted, Texas-rigged plastic worm.
3. Work all structure Start looking for shoreline structure. The key is to spot something that looks different. A big rock, a solitary stump, a small point, and a stock fence extending into the water all potentially harbor bass. Work such spots first with a floating minnow plug fished in short twitches and long pauses. Follow up at each position with a slowly retrieved plastic worm.
4. Dredge the dam If the pond has a dam, the area in front of it offers both a steeply sloping underwater edge and the pond’s deepest water. Texas-rigged plastic worms, lipless crankbaits, and floating minnow plugs are all good options for working parallel to the edge. Also try dredging the deepest water by sliding your worm-weight sinker about 2 feet above your rigged worm and pegging the weight in place with a toothpick. This makes a Carolina rig that you can cast out from the dam and twitch back with the worm floating just off the bottom.
5. Fish through snags Fallen trees extending into the water attract lots of cover-seeking bass. Make repetitive casts to work your lightly weighted plastic worm slowly through all the branches and around both sides of the trunk. Gently lift your rod tip to ease the worm over snags so you don’t get hung up.
6. Survey the center Some bass will suspend at mid-depths over the deep center of a pond. Lipless crankbaits like Rat-L-Traps can be cast long distances and work best for reaching the middle. Experiment with retrieve speeds and also allow the plug to sink deeper at times.
7. Look for stock Many farm ponds have a section of bank that’s been trampled by watering cattle. Schools of minnows are attracted when cattle stir the bottom. Bass often patrol these disturbed edges, so work the area carefully with your minnow plug.
8. Parallel the shoreline Don’t neglect shorelines that seem featureless, such as long stretches of grassy or gravel banks. These are common to dug ponds without dams and can hold plenty of foraging fish. Cast parallel to shore and work your minnow plug or plastic worm slowly within a few feet of the bank.
9. Scout weedbeds Beds of lily pads or other aquatic weeds are obvious targets. The trick is to work a lure without hooking gobs of vegetation. Use a floating, weedless frog, which will slide over the dense mats and can be paused and twitched in small pockets of open water.

Muskie Mark Posted July 17, 2005 02:31 PM
Good tips David . Sometimes I go bank fishing if the weather is going to get bad that day or if I don't want to mess around with my boat. It is nice just fishing from the bank .

Frogman2 Posted January 10, 2006 05:42 AM
Something I have found also is not to over look the "obvious" fishing spots. Sometimes, because they ARE easy to get to, or are "right there", most would think that they are fished all of the time.

Well if most people think that and don't fish it, it might just turn out to be a great spot...especially small streams and rivers. But keep in mind that it works for smaller lakes too.

Dewayne Posted January 10, 2006 08:03 AM
Dont forget to cast parallel with the bank as you go .Each time you take a couple of steps cast along side it before you spook em.Then work your way out and down.

Frogman2 Posted January 11, 2006 11:49 AM
Bridges are pretty good spots to go also, not just to get out of the rain, or sun, but fish seem to congregate just to the downstream side.

So I generally float something from the middle of the bridge and let it drift by, or toss a lure past them and bring it back.

Bridges work pretty good for that too!

davesett2000 Posted January 11, 2006 10:22 PM
That's what were were saying Frogman2

Rain can knock bugs out of the air into the water...since there are no raindrops hitting the surface under a bridge, these bugs are easier to see

In the heat of the sun, the shade of the bridge provides a bit of a respite for the fish.

ANd last but not least, the bridge's pylons give the fish structure to relate to, and a place for algae etc...to grow, providing food for baitfish, thereby attracting bigger fish.

getdanet1 Posted January 18, 2006 11:00 PM
Those newer castable depth finders could be a real boon to Bank fishers.
They can help you find unseen drop offs and cast across a smaller creek can find holes right across from where you are. That can help you set up for a later trip to the other side.

davesett2000 Posted January 19, 2006 08:16 AM

Good point John

ANd you don't have to wait for the season to open...

Just head out with it and explore...just make DANG sure you don't have ANY lures / hooks with ya (not even in the car)...

Game Warden might stop...but when you show him what you are doing, and the fact you have NO fish-catching hooks or lures with ya, it will be "see ya later...have a nice day"

Take a notepad / mini-cassette with ya to make notes etc...

You can hit a LOT of potential new spots in just one day.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 4/19/2005 12:52:49 PM

Other Fishing Links...more info for the "Inflow"

http://www.4hfishing.org/

http://aquanic.org/index.htm

http://www.bass-city.com/index.asp

http://www.bassfishin.com/articles.htm

http://www.bassfishingmatrix.com/index.html

http://www.bassmaster.com

http://www.bassresearch.com/

http://www.breammaster.com/forum/index.php?s=

http://www.brotherhood-of-catfishermen.com

http://www.carp.net

http://www.carpanglersgroup.com/

http://www.catcherman.com/phpBB2/index.php

http://www.crappie.com

http://www.cyberangler.com/fishing.htm

http://www.dto.com

http://www.esox.co.uk/

http://www.esoxangler.com/

http://www.fintalk.com/

http://www.fish307.com/forum/default.asp

http://www.fishandgame.com/

http://www.fishbase.com/

http://www.fishfever.com/

http://www.fishing.about.com/

http://www.fishingboard.com

http://www.fishingbuddy.com/

http://www.fishingflipper.com/index.htm

http://www.fishingmn.com

http://www.fishingwithflies.com/index.htm

http://www.fishnkids.com/index.html

http://www.fish-wisconsin.com/

http://www.fishwis.com/

http://www.friendsoftheriver.org Website about California Rivers

http://www.futurefisherman.org/

http://www.fws.gov US Fish and Wildlife Service

http://www.glangler.com/index.htm

http://www.how-to-fish.com/

http://www.invominnesota.com/

http://www.kansasangler.com/index.html

http://www.lake-link.com

http://www.lake-online.com/fishinhole/index.html

http://www.lakeontario.org/fishing/index.php

http://www.lakeontariounited.com/forum/index.php

http://www.michigansportsman.com/index.htm

http://www.mnflyfishing.com/

http://www.muskiefishing.com/

http://www.muskie-lures.com/rocketman/index1.htm

http://www.muskies101.com

http://www.muskyhunter.com

http://www.myfishfinder.com/

http://www.nalms.org/ (North American Lake Management Society)

http://www.nflcc.com/ National Fishing Lure Collectors Club

http://www.niagarafishing.net

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/

http://www.onflyfishing.com/index.html

http://www.outdoor-links.com/tvo/chapter1.htm

http://www.outdoornews.com/

http://www.piscatorialpursuits.com/index.htm

http://www.realbass.com/

http://www.scientificfisherman.com/default.asp

http://www.smallstreams.com

http://www.steelheader.net/home/default.shtml

http://www.thefishingnews.com

http://www.ultimatebass.com

http://www.walleyesearchers.com

http://www.walleyesinc.com/

http://www.walleyeu.com/index.shtml

http://www.walleyesunlimited.com

http://www.yumabassman.com

Anglers Radio http://www.anglersradio.com

Covering the Upper Midwest http://www.fishandgame.com/

Reeltimeanglers http://reeltimeanglers.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 4/25/2005 1:22:30 PM

These tips for shopping PAWN SHOPS from sscasteel...thanks Steven <!--graemlin::cool:-->

And OTHER good places to Find Stuff <!--graemlin::cool:-->

quote:

sscasteel posted April 21, 2005 04:45 PM
Perhaps a little lesson in Self learned Pawn shop strategy will help my fellow NAFC members.

BACKGROUND INFO.

One must remember that Pawn shops are out to make a profit, else they will not survive long. In some cases they buy a product outright from someone at a low price, then mark it up for sale.Or they loan "MONEY" on a product that must stay in storage [by law] 60-90 days. If the owner does not come back and claim it, then the Pawn shop can legally put it up for sale and they will mark it well up over their loaned out $$ to make a profit.

When to buy??? In this case, Fishing Tackle, rods and reels ?? Usually in December, then Jan-March of the next year.

Here is the ticket.

SUMMER / May, June, July, = EVERYONE uses their fishing stuff, IN MOST CASES, very little of anything good will be in a Pawn shop at this time.

FALL / From August on.= as the seasons change so do the needs of the public. Hunting season and kids back in school, take up some priorities. Some quit fishing, or want to upgrade to new fishing items next year. AND SOME BADLY NEED POCKET MONEY TO BUY X-MAS GIFTS WITH. To the Pawn shops it goes, Sold outright, or Pawned and never claimed again. Pawn shops taking in fishing stuff in Aug.-Oct. THEN WAIT 60-90 DAYS, know they must sell it in Dec. or have to put it on their year end inventory sheets. = THEY HATE THAT. SO IT IS BIG YEAR END CLEARANCE SALE AND DISCOUNT TIME IN DEC. Hit every Pawn shop you can. Cash, Crdit Card, or personal Check. Even put it on Layaway for 10-15% down. Get it anyway you can. Ask the managers if additional stuff will be coming out soon. If so, be there as soon as you can, even at opening time of the store, and wait for them to put it out.

JAN.- MARCH = Depending on when fishing stuff was taken in and the waiting period ends. LOTS OF FISHING ITEMS WILL BE IN THE PAWN SHOPS NOW. ITEMS ARE ADDED ALMOST DAILY. PLus Pawn shops are still trying to get rid of last years stuff, and the sooner the better. So they can bring in the Newest seasonal items.

APRIL = This can be a crazy month in Pawn shops for Fishing goods. Items that were taken in VERY late Dec. or in Jan. can now be coming out after the waiting period. And some of it can be VERY GOOD in Quality, as some of the Last Folks to Pawn stuff at the end of the year are either forced to sell their quality stuff for cash to pay bills, or they want to upgrade their good stuff to even better quality.

HOW / When TO BUY IN A PAWN SHOP = This is from my own experience. The VERY best dates to hit Pawn shops are Dec. 26th through Jan. 8th the following year. This gives the Pawn shops a chance to Clear out all they can at years end, [ at a small profit] or to Eliminate all they can the first week of the New Year. [best offer they can get]

First find any fishing items you want. Check the prices . Usually too high , [but occasionally something is priced at what someone will readily pay] ALWAYS TRY FOR A LOWER PRICE. Ask the folks behind the register or the manager what is the best price they will sell at. Another tactic is to ask them, "What is the best price I can get if I pay Cash"? I sometimes will grab up a large number or rods and reels [10-20] of them, or several tackle boxes. I will then ask management for the BEST deal they can give me on all this? HAVE A TOP FIGURE YOU WILL PAY IN MIND. IF THEY COME CLOSE TO IT, OR UNDER THEN GO FOR IT.. I WILL SOMETIMES PLACE A MONSTER PURCHASE OR TWO ON A CREDIT CARD, JUST TO GET ALL THE GREAT STUFF, KNOWING I AM GOING TO RE-SELL IT FOR A PROFIT. Then pay off the Credit card in the next one or two monthly Payments.

By becoming a regular shopper at a Pawn shop and buying the same thing most of the time, Management will get to know you, and how to co-operate with you. And in some cases [if asked to] even hold or notify you when they have quality stuff they know you are interested in.

I have several Pawn shop owners who give me great deals on their goods because they get $$ from me FAST. Two managers even keep outcoming stuff in the back room for me, and when I come in, I get a little "BEHIND THE SCENES" invite tour of it to see everything First that is coming out. What Service... To get first crack at CREAM OF THE CROP ITEMS before the General public even gets to see it.

If you pick up a product but don't like the price, you can always walk up to the manager or whomever is in charge, and ask them if they will take [a certain lower price you determine or feel comfortable paying.] If so, good deal.

If a manager states he will take a certain price, YOU DO have the option to counter offer with an even slightly lower offer. Most of the time it is no, but when they accept the lower counter offer, you saved that much more.

Don't ALWAYS go by my info. Unexpected things do happen.

A sudden Death or injury to family members. Completely unexpected bills, or automobile repairs, medical expenses, Even just being low on cash for Groceries.
I have found great products in Pawn shops at the most unexpected of times. Someone will either sell or Pawn their TREASURED fishing stuff to get the emergency cash. THE SMART ONES PAWN IT, AND COME BACK LATER TO PAY OFF THE LOAN AND RECLAIM IT.

Steven Casteel, Texas NAFC Life Member

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/3/2005 5:15:55 AM

I learned something new... <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

They DO have toll free numbers <!--graemlin::eek:--> <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Rapala 1-800-874-4451 Normark 1-800-468-5873

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/5/2005 1:20:09 PM

Equipment Security / Gear Inventory

Unless you have "Ft. Knox" as a gear storage unit, you run the risk of having your stuff stolen or damaged by some type of accident.
Insurance companies are always reluctant to cough up replacement funds for stuff THEY have never seen.

So a few years ago I started to make an "inventory" of ALL my fishing gear. At the time I had started building up my "stock", and I had receipts to work with, which allowed me to list what I was buying.

I was also lucky that I had several company's catalogs which I had acquired and saved over the years. These helped me identify what I already had.

So I started an Microsoft Excel spreadsheet of everything I had, and which tackle box it was in. Below is a small excerpt from it...


Manufacturer..................................................................QTY.....Box Name
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 1oz Sunfish............................................1.....Muskie T
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz 05 Smokey Joe...............................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz 25B Chrome/Blue.............................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz 30 Yearling Bass..............................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz 52 Chartruese Shiner........................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz C3 Classic Bluegill............................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz C4 Classic Baby Bass........................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz SY7 Bream.....................................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap 3/4oz Black REPAINT................................1.....Night
Bill Lewis Red Zone RZ700 1/2oz Hudson Shad..........................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis Sparkle Trap 3/4oz 830 West Point............................1.....10 Tray
Bill Lewis SparkleTrap 3/4oz 833 Perch....................................1.....10 Tray
Blaze Lures RAX-72 Popper Silver Shiner........................ .........1.....9606
Blaze Lures RAX-72 Shad Diver......................... ....................1.....9606
Blue Fox Aqua Spoon Orange Hamm. Brass Stripe / Brass 1/8oz...2.....9606/Panfish

In the list above I have them sorted by manufacturer.

I also have a list of them sorted by box, which is VERY useful, because the next step is too open EACH box, and take a photo (also suggested by ouchitabassangler) of it's contents, then make double prints of the photos.

Put the Excel spreadsheet on a 3 1/2 floppy disc..2 DIFFERENT discs to be exact. Add a CD too if you wish.

Keep 1 set of disc / photos in an entirely different place than the other set.

Doing this and then applying sscasteel's good tips (see the bottom of this post) will help make sure that you get SOME form of justice.

Granted...this DOES take time and energy...but in the long run, you may not have to deal with a headache from the insurance company, on TOP of the one you got from the loss of your gear (by what ever method).

Good luck...and bless those of you that have helped "unfortunate" members out.

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:One of the first things I would do is have the Police check out EVERY Pawn or Re-sale shop in the area within 20 miles. Pawn shops should have records of what they bought, date of, and from Who. If this guy used his real name at any store then a match should produce some, [hopefully] all your fishing stuff and other items back.

I would also take a walk through all local Flea markets and re-sale stores to see if you could spot your stuff. IF YOU DO, HAVE SOMEONE CALL THE POLICE = FAST. You try to stall any sales of the stuff until they arrive to take over. KEEPING YOUR REPORT # HANDY WILL ALSO BE HELPFUL TO THE POLICE. Also check out any Garage sales advertising fishing tackle.

I DON'T KNOW ABOUT ANYONE ELSE, BUT I TRY TO ID ALL MY REELS / RODS.

REELS = I place a self adhesive PERSONAL mailing labels w/address on the foot of each reel. [IF possible] I also place these same labels [cut down to size] on the inside of either the gear cover or Front and Back Reel Covers [where it doesn't effect any operation of] and also under the line spool. I may have 2-4 labels on the same reel.

RODS = This is harder to find a place to hide an ID. The butt cap can be loosened and a business card or personal address mailing label folded and shoved up into the rod base. Re-glue the butt cap with Elmers white glue ....NOT SUPER GLUE. Should you have to take the cap off to prove the rod is yours, you would destroy the cork pulling/twisting the cap off. Elmers glue will give some, and you do not always destroy the cork inside the cap using it.

Another way to ID a rod is paint the rod seat a certain color pattern. [fish don't care] Color choices and patterns are yours to decide. Just pick something you can remember and readily ID upon sight.

Have a Rod repairman break the rod varnish on a rod and place your name on it then re-varnish over. Can't be removed. You can also take a 2-3 line mailing address label and cut it down as small as possible, adhesive it to the rod ahead of the fore grip, and then have a rod builder cover it with Flex Coat and turn it overnight with a rod drying machine. Flexcoat covers label and it can't be peeled off.

Tackle boxes = I place a Business card on the outside of EVERY ONE of my tackle boxes where it is HIGHLY Visible. I use the folding tray or pull draw models. I pull each drawer out and place a business card UNDER each drawer by taping it with scotch tape. FOLDING TRAYS = same thing. Place a business card with tape ready and place it under each tray where it can't be seen. THIEVES DON'T TAKE TIME TO LOOK UNDER TRAYS OR DRAWERS FOR ID LABELS.

If I can help you get started again with some kind of fishing equipment for both of you. PM me at sscasteel@msn.com

I hope you get as much back as you can.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/9/2005 9:18:15 AM

Interesting facts of EVERY state in the US <!--graemlin::cool:-->

http://www.50states.com/

A website on How to Mend things
http://www.howtomendit.com/

And a nation-wide club for lure collectors... <!--graemlin::)-->

National Fishing Lure Collectors Club

And a website / magazine called Tacklemaking

And a website called Riversmallies . com

Originally posted by: Tom & Laure Larson on 5/10/2005 5:40:24 AM

Holy Man Dave!!
Thanks for all the info. It must have taken you a week to compile all that stuff. I'm going to put it in a safe place for future reference. <!--graemlin::)-->

Mrs. Mossback

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/12/2005 6:56:41 AM

<!--graemlin::)--> <!--graemlin:;)--> <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Tackle Box Mfgr's

Flambeau

Plano Molding

SKB Sports Cases

Shimano Gear

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/12/2005 7:36:02 AM

quote:

Originally posted by BIGmike1:
I have a free website (no ads or popups either) that explains how to tie crawler harnesses, how to fish Lower Lake Huron/St. Clair River with them, and even has videos!
You can also see how we clean fish with an electric knife.
http://dns.advnet.net/mkg/index.htm
Good luck out there all this new year,
Mike

Originally posted by: BigGuy on 5/12/2005 2:11:08 PM

Great Boat for Sale just click here...

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/17/2005 11:42:23 AM

Tips for Cleaning Cork Handles by ouchitabassangler and sscasteel

..................................And.................................

Rod Cleaning Tips by sscasteel

<!--graemlin::cool:--> Thanks guys <!--graemlin:;)-->

quote:

Originally posted by ouachitabassangler:
I rub cork handles down with light olive oil. Sanding lightly, as the article mentioned, is a good way to clean dirty cork, but the oil restores that original finish and prevents cracking.

Some of my rods have fancy bevelled cork handles which can't be easily replaced. I've ordered replacement cork, though, removing the original. I slit it along a straight line on the top backbone where neither palm or fingers touch, peel it off, sand off irregularities, then slit the new cork, pry it over the handle with super glue applied to the handle first. A razor blade is used to trim neatly. The new cork usually overlaps at the cut seam, and that's good. Just slice through both cork edges together so when pressed down the edges meet perfectly, no line showing, especially after sanding and being treated with olive oil.

Jim

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
The only thing I have ever seen that worked on dried out cork [believe it or not] is Mothers Chrome Polish from any Auto parts store or section.

This guy who repaired rods, would take a piece of Scrotch Brite pad [slightly used] and dip it in the polish and then move up and down and around the cork, polishing it wherever it was dirty, wipe off everything, and then after that he would re-apply in a thin layer over all the cork handle, more Mothers with a new piece of Scotch Brite pad. After that he would let it set for up to 24 hrs in a very little traveled area and let the stuff soak in. After a day, he would then use a clean rag to wipe off anything left on the cork and again use a slightly used Scotch Brite pad to touch up any small dirty spots missed before. I have seen Dirty & dry cork come out looking very nice, Not SUPPER SHINY, but very clean and decent to the touch again.

I have a plastic tub of Mothers and Scotch Brite pads on my repair desk just for dried out / dirty cork and use it occasionaly.

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
I tried something different today on cork handles = GOJO Hand cleaner.

I had a somewhat dirty cork rod handle, and was going to try a little Steel wool on it, when my eye caught the GoJO Hand cleaner tub.

Can't hurt to try, I thought. After all it does clean hands very well, and kind of moisturize's too. I get a small slightly used, Scotch brite pad out and a tooth brush. Dip the tooth brush in the gojo and brush it on the cork. I let it set about [2] minutes, then slowly started rubbing the cork with the Scotch brite pad.

The cork would inded clean up, <!--graemlin::cool:--> and wiping it off with a clean white rag let me see what was brought out of the cork, and how dirty the cork actually was.

I believe I will start using this stuff over eveything else. Cork gets cleaned and the GoJo sinks in kind of like a moisturizer into the Cork. A good White rag to wipe it off, and much better loking cork. <!--graemlin::D-->

I will try it on a real dried out handle the next time I get one, and see if will help it any.

Haven't tried it on an Eva foam handle yet, but I bet GoJO could make that stuff look mighty clean again, if a tile grout brush with somewhat stiff bristles, was used to work it in, and bring out the dirt and grime. <!--graemlin:;)-->

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecrusher:
My mistake, it isn't FlexCoat, it's U-40 that makes the cork sealer, sorry for the confusion. Cabela's sells it, among others.

quote:

Originally posted by Badger:
I clean mine with water,liquid hand soap and a small bristle brush. Wet down the cork, rub in some soap and scrub w/brush. Rinse off, dry, and it's like new.
Works so good my wife accused me of buying a couple new rods. I had to clean hers just to prove her wrong. Laughed my butt off over that.

quote:

okuma500 Posted August 10, 2005 03:34 PM
Read recently where if you use Bleach-White, thats right, Bleach-White, the stuff for cars. Just spray it on and wipe it off

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/18/2005 7:21:54 AM

A couple of months ago we had an informative discussion about crankbaits in the Bass Forum. This is a condensation of what was said by various members. <!--graemlin::cool:-->

fish-wva Posted February 03, 2005 05:22 AM

I read about people fishing deep crankbaits but when i try usind a deep runner i cant even seem to hit bottom at 10ft. i know the bait i am using is rated for 10 to 15ftPosts:

davesett2000 Posted February 03, 2005 09:01 AM

Is the lure REALLY rated for 10-15 ft "ON THE CAST"? (No offense meant)
Most lures will say something like "6-8 ft casting, 10-15 ft trolling"....so make SURE that it's rated for "10-15 ft casting" depth...

Next...how heavy of line are you using? Thick MONO especially will decrease the diving depth...fluorocarbon is good because it is denser...and sinks better...

Also...check the gear ratio of your reel....if it's over say, 5.3 to 1, you may be cranking it too fast...there is a common misperception that the faster you crank, the deeper it should go...

In reality, each lure has an optimum speed in relationship to depth...too fast can actually make it rise a bit...

And last but not least...there is always a possibility that the lure is defective...or out of tune...

This is all I can think of at the moment...
But I will guarantee that someone else will be along shortly and have other possibilities that I have missed...


WadeK Posted February 03, 2005 02:18 PM
Dave, the only thing I can think of to add worthwhile is that most crankbaits are rated using 10# test Mono.


fishermen23340 Posted February 03, 2005 02:26 PM
well done davesett2000 and good question fish-wva. I personally can't think of anything more to add except if you want the bait to run deeper try wraping lead core wire around the top of the center hook, the weight putty under the bill of the bait or suspend dots.

skguides Posted February 04, 2005 09:11 PM
The line diameter makes a difference in how deep any lure rins. There are some articles on this here http://www.skguideservice.com/cgi-bin/artman/exec/search.cgiCrankbaits

trainboy Posted February 05, 2005 05:32 AM
but wouldn't it also depend on how long the split shot area is and if it is straight or bent, because if it is sloping downward the lure will dive shallow and vice-versaPosts: 14 | Location: Ottawa, ON | Registered: September 01, 2004

wme96 Posted February 05, 2005 10:16 AM
Only thing I ca think to add is distance of the cast. It needs long cast in order for the bait to get to deep dive postion.

davesett2000 Posted February 07, 2005 07:35 AM
Thanks Bill...this is an Excellent point...

ANd thanks skguides for the link

Generally, a longer rod will give you longer casts...

In our most recent issue of the club mag Steve Pennaz talked about the fact that a # 5 Down Deep Rattlin' Fat Rap would go down 11 ft. with 14 lb mono...

He also said that you had to crank the bait 40 ft. in distance BEFORE the bait got to that depth...

Steven Holt and Mark Romanack published a book about the dive curves of MANY crankbaits...it's called Precision Casting, and here's a link to their website... http://www.precisionangling.com/pc.html

I have seen several articles about this book and what they did to test the baits...impressive to say the least...

The manufacturers may tell you that baits will travel down to certain depths, but these guys actually went to a swimming pool and tested several...even with different lb tests of line...it is VERY thorough...

A simpler (but time consuming) way would be to make a list of all the cranks you have, and between the Cabela's, Bass Pro catalogs and mfg's web sites, you could write down the basic depth range for each...just keep in mind that they usually use 10 lb mono as a reference line...

You could also take a waterproof marker and write that range on the bottom of each lure...

As a rule, a line lighter than 10 lb would allow the bait to dive a bit deeper....thicker mono will have the opposite effect...

Fluorocarbon will also make it dive deeper as the line is denser than mono, and therefore sinks easier...

I don't know about braids, but I'm sure MANY people here could answer that question for us...(that was MY cast for info)

And last but not least, there is always the 'ol "Kneel and Reel", purportedly first used by Paul Elias when he won his first Bassmaster's Classic (1982)...

I remember doing this same thing when I was a kid (early 1970's), thinking that it would make the bait run deeper, but I had no proof of it (not many swimming pools in rural Minnesota <!--graemlin::eek:--> )

Now we'll wait for some info from our BB info specialists on the effect of braided lines and dive curves...


Ray White Posted February 07, 2005 11:52 AM
Keeping the diving crank baits down at a given depth can be a chore, as the line is being retrieved in it become shorter cause in the bait to track upward. If you're looking to probe the deeper depths and want the bait to stay at that depth at longer time. I would use a lipless crankbait, countdown, or sinking crankbait one that does not float. As these baits sink, you can count the bait down, they will sink about a foot a second to the depth that you want to track at, especially rattle traps. I used the diving crank baits with a long bill as a weedless crankbait around wood in shallow water to water depth of about six to 8 feet water. More so than to use them to probe deep water. I also use deep diving crankbait on suspended fish in the 10 to 15 foot range, even if the crankbait does not quite reach the 15 foot mark. They have produced a reaction strike, causing a bass to come up for it.

Robert Horn Posted February 07, 2005 01:50 PM
Great ideas for crankbait fishing, Ray! Especially using deep divers in shallower heavy cover, I really think what you are doing there is what most people who are successful with crankbaits actually do. That is what I've been noticing in the Tournament Trail section of Bassmaster magazine. They have been taking that lure that runs down to about 15 feet, and throwing it into submerged cover in 6, 8, to 10 feet of water and pulling it down to where it either knocks into wood, or almost snags in grass and pulling it off the wood, or out of the grass and getting that reaction strike from the bass. Thanks for reinforcing those lessons, Rob in Paris, Tx.Posts:

ouachitabassangler Posted February 07, 2005 01:55 PM
Braids usually have a much smaller diameter, so you can keep a high test line and still probably not exceed the diameter of a 10# mono. The thinner the line, the deeper the dive.

Some guys are right now trying lead core line out in the deep of the lake, going after really big stripers. That stuff sinks like a rock and takes whatever is attached with it.

Another way to make a lure dive deeper is to drill a hole in the belly, insert BBs or stuff some lead in the body, then temporarily test it in a tub. When satisfied its heavier but the action is still right, seal the hole with wood or plastic putty. Mix the hole drill shavings with the putty or glue in the top layer to restore a matching color. You might have to touch it up with a little paint, but I don't think the fish notice either way. If they don't mind suspend dots, they shouldn't shy away from a clumsy patch job.

davesett2000 Posted February 18, 2005 04:08 PM
I may be HALF crazy...

But it wouldn't surprise me that the 2 biggest problems people have with crankbaits is...

1. Not picking a lure that runs at the correct depth for the situation.

2. Using a "plain" retrieve...

When you're reeling it in, give it little pulls...short hard jerks...long pulls....long hard jerks...with your rod...

Make that bait "come to life"...like it's trying to actually FLEE a predator...(the ones you're trying to catch)

Ray White Posted February 18, 2005 05:53 PM
davestt2000, No you're not half crazy, the fact of the matter is, you could not be any closer to truth. Random movement is the key. If one watches baitfish when no predators are around, baitfish move in a very mechanical motion. But when predator fish approach, the baitfish starts moving radically through the water going every which way. When you see baitfish close to the surface swimming in this fashion, this is a signal to you that predator fish are just below them. It is the radical movements of a crankbait that trigger strikes just as baitfish change their flight patterns. Just stay in tune with the movements of your crankbait, that you are deploying. So when a strike comes on, you can duplicate it.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 22, 2005 06:10 PM
Ditto all the above. It really shouldn't be necessary to always get a crankbait all the way down to target bass. They are watching what goes on above them. If the lure is presented right they will go up for it unless in a nasty mood. In that case a crankbait probably is a poor choice anyway. If they are suspending and not willing to come up, hanging a dancing spoon in their face is about the best you can do, or drop-shot them.

I've clipped a 1/2 oz bell weight onto the eye of a front or middle treble hook on a crankbait and found bottom when I didn't intend to so efficiently, 60 feet down. The lure stayed there. You can use adhesive lead strips to do the same thing. Filling lures with BBs works if you insist on getting it deep. Trolling with a deep diving planer board will do it. Or make a heavily weighted leader sort of Carolina style.

Most of the lures don't reach the depths claimed unless cast a hundred yards to get the best angle, and they are tested on ten pound sinking mono, so if you are using line thicker than used in the depth test, and/or line that tends to float, it will run more shallow. It's a little misleading, but the depths are more accurate for long-line trolling, and assuming the lure is perfectly tuned, running straight with no variance up or down, side to side. The lures ought to be checked for tuning out of the box anyway, but if you forget to do that, the claimed depth is impossible if out of tune. If out of tune bend the line eye in the direction you want it to change to. Use a pair of pliers like Rapala makes with slots in the outer edge for gripping and fine bending. It also has a split ring bit on the end of the needle nose, split shot crimper, and side cutter. Adjusting to make it dive more or climb more is probably easier changing tail hook size or tying an extra large knot to hold the line in a better position at the eye.

One of the most effective presentations other than mentioned above is to pause a crankbait frequently after a short run, using a lure that suspends well, or sinks very slowly when paused. If they float to the surface too quick they require a chase upwards a bass might not appreciate. They can rise and fall with almost no effort, but slowly, so if they spot a lure rising about their speed, they will follow longer. When you pause then restart, that's the moment most likely to bring on a strike. The other event for a strike is on the fall after a pause. Whatever you do with it imitate a dying shad, which darts, wriggles, spirals toward the deep helplessly. When injured most can only go down.

davesett2000 Posted February 24, 2005 07:44 AM
I found this article on the Internet...

Long....but interesting... http://www.e-bassangler.com/page-19.html

The Rod Tosser Posted February 24, 2005 12:55 PM
A few things to remember resistence and distance you need to make a long cast before the lure reaches max deapth and the more resistence on the line the less depth it will go. You might be realing or trolling to fast for the lure to reach the max deapth . the line diameter might be to thick . usaly long rods and thin line are the norm. You could also add a sinker a few feat up the line to get more depth. There is a good book out there with the average depths that some lures run. but i dont remeber the name of it.

davesett2000 posted February 24, 2005 6:17 PM
It's called Precision Casting, and here's a link to the website... http://www.precisionangling.com/pc.html

Originally posted by: sscasteel on 5/28/2005 9:42:06 PM

I seen an article either here in Texas or on the computer news in the last 4-5 days, that DUE TO THE THREAT OF TERRIORIST MAYBE CROSSING THE BOUNDARY WATERS, the US, and maybe Canadian Border patrol were going to start making Boundary water users have several forms of ID on them. <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Drivers license, fishing license, Birth certificate, A passport, maybe even an insurance card or proof of where person being checked, worked at. <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

All were being considered, but had not gone into enforcement as of yet.

May want to keep up on top of this, as it could mean a pleasant fishing or just Nature sight seeing trip, gets ruined by not having correct paperwork. <!--graemlin::(-->

Originally posted by: papa_d on 5/28/2005 11:54:30 PM

NOT IN EFFECT BY THE FED'S; BUT THE NEWLY FORMED "HOME DEFENCE SECURITY GUARD" IS SUPPOSED TO BE DOING THIS. JUST STARTED IN LAST WEEK OR SO. THIS GROUP IS A OFF-SHOOT OF THE US/MEXICO GROUP THAT HAS BEEN SO SUCCESSFUL. THATS ABOUT ALL I HEARD HERE IN MICHIGAN.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/31/2005 12:20:41 PM

Here's an article I ran into about Superlines on http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/c...nes2.shtml

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/31/2005 12:43:32 PM

Tips for Dressing Up Tackle Boxes by sscasteel <!--graemlin::cool:--> Thanks Steven!

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
If you have the older tackle boxes with plastic tray, UMCO, MY BUDDY, MY PAL, and other, the trays can be damaged by worm burns, be cracked, and other things. <!--graemlin::eek:--> Doesn't seem to be any source [surprisingly] to buy them from in USA either. <!--graemlin::confused:-->

Have heard Sewing Supply stores carry Standard size replacement trays, but haven't found any yet.

I carefully remove every tray [empty] and facing the sun or a bright light, look at the tray bottom. If you can see cracks, spots, or holes with the light, then I take duct tape and cover them on the bottom side. Once the tray is snapped back in place no one can see the duct tape] <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->
The tops holder sections in the trays, I take rolled cork and cut close accurate pieces the length and width of each section. I then use scissors to carefully trim the cork to a perfect fit in the hole bottom. I use either a light amount of glue or a squeeze tube of caulking on the tray bottom before easing the cork down to it and into position. You can let the stuff dry as is, or place weight of some kind on top of each piece of glued in cork. {SINKERS} = best, then used but clean, spark plugs, Etc. Edges can be fixed also using the cork. Let the whole thing dry for up to 24-48 hrs, for best results. <!--graemlin:;)-->

The other type of tackle boxes today w/plastic sections, edges, and pull drawers, can be fixed or looks improved by this method also. If the plastic has worm burns in it, use an Exacto knife, pocket knife, small scraper, to level the plastic as flat as possible. Cut the cork the entire length and width of the section and glue or caulk in.

You can only lose about 1/64th of an inch in depth from this cork so it has very little effect in the depth of the section and objects going back in it after fixing.

Hooks can snag the cork occasionally, but if postioned carefully won't do hardly any harm to it.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/3/2005 3:14:18 PM

Website about California Rivers http://www.friendsoftheriver.org <!--graemlin::cool:-->

To find info on rivers in YOUR state, simply type in rivers + xxxxxx (name of your state) into any online search engine... <!--graemlin::eek:--> <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 6/8/2005 9:40:08 AM

cool links

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 6/8/2005 11:41:17 AM

http://www.walleyehunter.com

http://www.landbigfish.com

http://www.quantumfishing.com

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com

http://www.yumbaits.com

http://www.lurenet.com

http://www.fishinghotspots.com

http://www.crappieusa.com

http://www.freshwater-fishing.org

http://www.flyfisherman.com

http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com

http://www.berkley-fishing.com

http://www.flydepot.com

http://www.total-fishing.com

http://www.fish.shimano.com

http://www.anglersmart.com (walmart for angler)

http://www.ffo-tackle.com

http://www.boohyahbaits.con

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/9/2005 9:12:57 AM

Fish Finder / GPS manufacturers

http://www.find-fish.com/ (Sells and supports ALL major brands)

http://www.humminbird.com/home.asp?ID=2 (main website)
http://www.humminbird.com/generic2.asp?ID=412 (Troubleshooting)

http://www.lowrance.com/

http://www.garmin.com/
http://www.garmin.com/support/ (Tech Support)

http://www.bottomlinefishfinders.com/

http://www.eaglegps.com/
http://www.eaglegps.com/Support/default.htm (Tech Support)

http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/
http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/default.asp?site=1§ion=3 (Tech Support)

http://www.si-tex.com/

Originally posted by: fishermen23340 on 6/10/2005 1:33:37 AM

Found this site in bass times. It shows where to buy a book with the true depth lures run not what they claim.
http://www.precisionangling.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/10/2005 10:01:47 AM

Spinnerbait Tips
This is a consolidation of 3 different discussions that we had over the last few months concerning a WIDE variety of info about spinnerbaits <!--graemlin::cool:--> Some info may be repeated between the 3, but overall it covers the subject quite well.
And a big thanks to EVERYONE who contributed! Enjoy! <!--graemlin:;)-->

bassmaster89 Posted June 02, 2005 02:20 PM
I like to fish fast and don't have to much patience when it comes to plastics so i mainly stick to crankbaits and spinnerbaits.I usually fish a few clear water lakes and ponds and was wondering if the blades might put off to much flash. Also when it is really clear could i use colored blades and still be productive. Thanks

davesett2000
Posted June 02, 2005 02:47 PM
Any and all of the above...really
The fish dictate what will work best on any given day...
And although the old adage of "silver on sunny days and gold on cloudy days" probably has some truth to it, you just never really know what MOOD the fish are in...
I personally would try some baits with "scale-looking" type blades...similar to these...
I'm sure a few of the other guys will be along shortly to add their expertise

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 02, 2005 03:20 PM
Like David wrote, the fish mood will determine the best combination. Sometimess in ultra clear water a lot of flash will put the fish off, then an hour later they will only hit high flash. I've started with gold blades on cloudy days, got no bites until I went with flat black blades. I try to start with willow blades if cutting across weeds, but sometimes I have to sacrifice "weedless" for what gets bites, going to Colorado blades. One day in clear water a large spinnerbait with quadra blades stops producing, but a compact one half its size with one blade but weighing the same is exactly the right one. You begin to get some interest in the Chosen One but the bass short strike or just slap it, so a search for the right trailer begins after ruling out presentation speed. I give each combo a 5 minute trial. That's it. I retie every 5 minutes trying something else unless I can switch blades, which takes about the same time to do as retying.

No matter what water, what condition it is in, the bass have to eat sometime. When they are not feeding (70% of the time) they are subject to reaction bites. Experiment to get one or the other.

Anglersradio
Posted June 03, 2005 11:55 AM
Year Round Spinnerbait Tactics
By Steve vonBrandt

Spinnerbaits are not just a tool for the spring and fall. Spinnerbaits can be deadly, if the right ones are fished in a variety of situations weather it be the East Coast or the West. The trick is to be able to distinguish which is the right one for the right situation? Spinnerbaits can fished in so many different ways, all of which, produce BIG BASS from north to south, east to west. They can be fished through the water column top to bottom. They are really a versatile bait if you know the little tricks it takes to fish them effectively. They can be fished many ways by varying the retrieve, weight of the bait, blade size, the trailer and colors. You have a bait here that can work a water column and catch fish from one to twenty-five feet, and because it is so versatile, you can fish it fast, slow, and in all seasons of the year.
The first time I discovered this, I was amazed at how many fish I had must have missed in my youth, by not knowing how to fish a spinnerbait here in the Northeast.

When it was October here in Delaware, I went hunting until the end of Quail season. Soon after 1976, I read my first issue of Basssmaster magazine, and saw that people were using this bait year round and catching bass. Soon after, in late December in Delaware, I caught my first bass on a "Stan Sloan" single nickel colorado blade,(with a purple skirt, with rattles on the arm,) by letting it flutter into a sunken tree, in ten foot deep, thirty-six degree water. I soon felt that sluggish pull on the line, "like a pile of leaves or grass", not until then, did I realize that I could catch bass year round on the right lures, with the right presentation, sound and color. It was well over six pounds, and was a different fight when she got close to the boat and saw the trolling motor. Since that time I have fished all over the United States, from New York to California, and found the right spinnerbait and the right technique produces big bass from all sorts of waters all year long. They key is to keep it in the strike zone, and most lures are made so that you can work them as slowly as you want to, while still keeping them in the zone.

"DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES"

I like to use the spinnerbait as a search tool, and kind of a depth finder, and bottom contour device also. What I do is check out the structure of the lake by bumping objects, and increasing my chance for a reaction strike right then. The spinnerbait will make a different sound bumping off different objects such as stumps, rocks, sand, and pea gravel.I also vary the speed often, and even shake the rod if necessary, trying to give the bass a different look, which is important in highly pressured waters. I work buzzbaits in a different manner also, which I believe is what accounts for some real lunkers that I might have otherwise missed. There are times when a spinnerbait is the most effective tool to use. When fishing the bait in heavy cover such as pads, I employ a technique that I now know is called fluttering by some anglers. Basically what you do is to cast the spinnerbait out into the pads, and by moving your rod tip, and other parts of your body positioning, you maneuver the bait through the pads, and when it comes to an opening, stop it, and let it flutter down. Many strikes comes as a lure sinks.You should make a lot of casts to the areas where you really believe the bass are, or have seen them, as they can be irritated into striking if the bait is presented in enough variations and positions. Slow rolling can be extremely effective in deep water as it designed to imitate a crawfish on the bottom, or another type of bass forage. The trick to it is rolling it down the side of a sloping bank, a rock bar, a hump, or any underwater structure, and then slowly pumping it back to the boat. We employ the almost identical technique with a lipless crankbait with great success. There are also better types of spinnerbaits for different types of cover. C shaped baits tend to work better through heavy pads and grass, while a V shaped bait gets hung up more easily.

Riprap is another good area to slow roll spinnnerbaits. There is often debris mixed in with the rocks, and many times large bass are waiting in ambush for prey to come along, and are primes areas to slow-roll spinnerbaits. The spinnerbaits should be slow rolled over the rocks and such, and extra action imparted to the bait is not really necessary. It should crawl over the bottom, and sometimes I give it a little twitch. All you have to do is raise the rod a slightly, lightly shake it, and then continue slowrolling it back to the boat.

"DEEP METHODS"

When the bass are really deep I employ a technique I call deep pulling; its like a yo-yo method but a little different. I let the bait flutter all the way down, and then let it sit, then I pull it hard and way up near the surface and do it again. I use real heavy baits with Colorado blades for this, usually in a chartreuse, or a chartreuse and white skirt when I fish in places that have dying shad in the winter, but anywhere else, I use black, or black/purple combinations. I always add a little Megastrike to the baits.

"TACKLE"

I like to use a 6 to 6 1/2 foot rod for this but sometimes I like to use a 7 foot rod, on different occasions. Many times situations come up when a 7 foot rod suits the situation better that a 6 or 6 1/2 foot rod for distance and control. Most of my rods I use for this technique are in a medium heavy action. I really like a Fiberglass rod for these baits, but there are many new rods that are very good for spinnerbaits and crankbaits, made by G.Loomis, St.Croix, Kistler,and Shimano. Sometimes on the smaller baits I use a spinning rod with Stren Super Braid,or Power Pro, but the rest of the time I use a baitcasting rod with a Shimano Chronarch, with fourteen to twenty pound P-Line.

WHAT COLORS FOR WHAT BAIT

When I choose a color for a spinnerbait, a lot of factors come in to play. The first thing I do is pick a shad pattern, or whatever is the dominate species in the lake. I usually double up the skirts, to give them more bulk. I use blue and white, black and white, and chartreuse and white. Sometimes I use red, depending on the location. All of these colors give a good range of visibility under water.

In muddy water, I have always used the same colors, black and blue and red. The same goes for the nighttime. I like to use the forage in the lake if I can,such as rainbow trout or shad, and to make it appear injured to trigger that genetic response.

I like to use big spinnerbaits in the spring, when I'm in big fish waters, some right here in Delaware or Maryland, or others such as Florida, Arizona, Texas, and Mexico. When fishing strictly for big bass with spinnerbaits I add on a double or triple skirt for bulk and lift, and use really big blades. Terminator makes some big blades that I really like on our spinnerbaits. This year here in Delaware, we landed three bass in one day on big spinnerbaits, that went seven and eight pounds. Sometimes we even break off the tails of worms for trailers, and many times in the spring, I have caught some huge bass from ten inches of muddy water with a big spinnerbait with a trailer. We have had a great response from bass in the Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania areas, using a double golden shiner skirt. The bluegill and shad patterns top the list overall though. Sometimes reversing the skirts on the baits presents a different profile, and will also trigger hard to get strikes. The spinnerbait isn't just a bait for beginners, although it is a great bait to break in a novice or child to the sport of bass fishing. But in the hands of an expert, it is a versatile year round bait, that can catch "HUGE" bass.

davesett2000
Posted June 08, 2005 01:21 PM
There's a good article in this month's Outdoor Life about spinnerbaits...here's a link to it on the website...
http://www.outdoorlife.com/outdoor/fishing/article/0,19912,387504,00.html

The actual article in the mag has great photos though, which there aren't all of them in the web version
Also...here's a couple of links I found today...
http://www.strikeking.com

http://www.terminatorlures.com (You can NOW buy packs of Oklahoma style blades )

davesett2000
Posted June 09, 2005 07:12 AM
Yet another clear water option is to "tone down" the metal blades with some dark paint (Black or dark blue/green)...
You could put a couple of stripes or bars with a small brush, which would eliminate some of the flash...but you could also use white, which might represent the belly of a baitfish...
For that matter, try an all-white blade...still quite visible but not as flashy
A couple of years ago I was in one of those "Dollar" - stores, and they had Black and dark blue fingernail polish...needless to say I picked up some

Blade Colors ETC...

Tyler Posted February 13, 2005 05:20 PM
Could some members please help me with understanding spinner bait blades when to use willow leaf and when to use colorado. when to use gold and when to use silver thanks

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 14, 2005 09:03 AM
Tyler, the blades are the parts that a bass will see first. If they match the forage size the bass is expecting, it will more likely take interest. The skirt and hook body help commit an attacking bass into biting the thicker, larger meal offering once he's close enough. Skirt color and other details can either warm a bass up or turn it off in the middle of an attack, resulting in short strikes. I stick with forage colors or white/chartreuse in the skirts when the water is stained to clear.

Willow blades are long and narrow, so don't offer a lot of water resistance. They do vibrate at a higher frequency. They allow a spinnerbait to fall faster than the other blades. If you want the lure to drop quickly, not giving fish a long time to study the lure, go with them. They're great for reaction strikes.

On the opposite end of blade choice are the Colorado blades. Being wider they displace more water and provide a thumping noise compared to a chatter in the willow. They provide more lift for the bait, allowing it to sink slowly, a good choice in helicoptering down the side of a tree snag. They allow bass a maximum amount of time to study the bait. That's useful when the bass are inactive, caught mostly by aggravating them. They have time to decide whether to allow its presence or not. That's the exact oposite of a reaction strike. Only instinct is involved in a reaction strike, no analysis involved.

An Indiana blade has some characteristics of both extremes, its effects a compromise of both.

Blade size has to do with matching forage size. If shad are running 2 inches, use a 2 inch long front blade. The second blade can be smaller. Too large in the rear mount means more hook fouling. Study the bait for where the blades can go before using it.
Learn to mix and match. This week I've used a 5/8 oz white spinnerbait with a touch of chartreuse in the skirt, a #3 silver willow, and a #2 gold Colorado, a shad colored swim bait on the main hook, and a trailer towing a Storm swim minnow. I position my boat over a major point (in shallow water) that has a sudden dropoff into main lake water near a major tributary leading to prime spawning areas.
The spinnerbait is then cast into the deep water, allowed to touch bottom, then pumped back up slowly.

davesett2000
Posted February 14, 2005 12:21 PM
Good points Jim...
As a rule, an all Colorado bait will bulge alot easier...
And an all willow will run deeper with an average retrieve...
AS Jim said....the wider Colo's will be louder under water...the willows quieter...
One more thing...willows are less weed prone than Colo's or Indiana's....
Some guys even file down the edge (sharpen it) to "cut" weeds...

Robert Horn Posted February 17, 2005 07:07 AM
When do you use a single-bladed spinnerbait? Rob in Paris, Tx.

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 17, 2005 09:46 AM
As for me, I switch to the single bladed rig when a more subtle presentation is needed. Less flash, just a little flicker. Sometimes it takes imitating a school of minnows with multiple blades, other times just presenting a quick little meal.

silversalmon
Posted February 17, 2005 10:52 AM
I ususally use the single blade when there is a load of underwater debris. The big fellows hide under there and look for a "minnow" type to swim by for lunch

davesett2000
Posted February 17, 2005 12:11 PM
Those are good ideas Jim and silver...
Another option is to use a "short arm" spinnerbait...where the blade doesn't hang so far back of the hook...
The smaller blades or a single blade will also allow the bait to sink faster...
Another suttle option is to use a black (painted or black nickel) blade...
When I lived in Minn years ago I could catch largemouths with a black / white or medium green / white Daredevle...
It wouldn't surprise me a bit if these colors would work on spinnerbaits in gin-clear water...
or in the shallows early AM or late PM...

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 17, 2005 03:53 PM
In fact, night fishing spinnerbaits just about requires a black blade if you want the bass to see it sillouetted against a faintly lit night sky. A light colored blade wouldn't contrast enough. In any case they can home in on the vibration until they see the skirt, also black or dark blue. The key is they only see what's above them or directly in front. They're looking up as well as horizontally, whereas a bottom feeder looks mostly down, the eyes oriented for that. Their lateral lines help find bait before they see it with eyes, so I'll usually go with a Colorado black blade. It sinks slower too, keeping the bait shallow where bass feed at night. Try an experiment at night, holding something black against the stars or clouds, then something light colored. Since the sky is already faintly lit you won't see the light object as well.

davesett2000
Posted February 18, 2005 03:57 PM
Yep... just make sure that there aren't any human-type lights around....then you can really tell the difference...
Myself and others have even used 2 Colorados on night baits....ALOT of thump...
Or try a short arm with a #6 Colo....

fishermen23340 Posted February 19, 2005 02:44 AM
I use a small colorado blade #2 or #3 in the spring, slow rolled, because the hatch is still small and the fish are not real active yet. Now come summer I'll use a willow blade #4 or larger colorado blades #5 or #6 or a combo colarado #3 / willow #5 these add flash and thump. In fall any blades work well because the bass are chasing everything, to fatten up for there long winter. Winter I go back to the large colorado blades with a helicopter retrieve because I like the slow fall on the drop in cold water. Puts the bait in there face longer. As for when I use silver or brass/gold blades I was taught to use silver when the sun is out and brass or gold on overcast days. Another way is to drop the baits over the side and let them sink the blade you can see the best as it falls deep flashing is your best choice, if you see it, the fish will see it even better. In muddy or stained water I use silver colorado blades only, the thump and flash on these blades gives you the best chance of a fish seeing / hearing your bait.

davesett2000
Posted March 09, 2005 12:24 PM
Spinnerbait / trolling blade places...

http://www.staminainc.com

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com

http://www.barlowstackle.com

http://www.terminatorlures.com (Oklahoma blades)

Tyler Posted March 10, 2005 09:12 AM
davesett 2000

Thanks for the websites. And thank you to everyone who contributed to my post. I gained alot of valuable information. Thank you very much
Posts: 165 | Location: New York State | Registered: December 14, 2004

lebbie54 Posted March 10, 2005 09:29 AM
Thanks for the black blade tip in low light. I have been looking for a combo that will work under this condition for some time now. Thank you, I think you soleved my problem big time. Hope to land some lunkers now. and of course get some nice grip and grins to go with them.
Posts: 158 | Location: Roscoe, IL | Registered: February 01, 2005

Anglersradio
Posted March 24, 2005 10:46 AM
Blades are very important. I am doing an online seminar soon on blades that you can view if you like and in the meantime I have several articles you can read. http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

Too Many misses?

Line_snapper
Posted June 04, 2005 11:19 PM
I got way too many misses today on my spinner bait. i need to find a way to put a trailer hook on a 1/8 oz. uncle buck micro spin. (not the actual thing but is basicly a genaric ver looks just the same acept smooth blade) but i dont know how to put a trailer hook on it. scince its a treble hok should i like put one smalll single hook on each hook or just one small hook on ONE of the hooks?? any input will be appreciated

papa_d
Posted June 05, 2005 02:55 AM
YOU COULD TRY IT WITHON HOOK; ANYMORE WOULD PROBANLY SCARE OFF THE FISH...

SuwanneePaul
Posted June 05, 2005 04:51 AM
Try running a thin wire through the eye of the trailer hook take several wraps around the wire and then attach it so it is centered on the treble hook and wrap the ends around the shank of the treble. I've done this with various size jigs and lures. Give it a try. Good luck.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 05, 2005 05:14 AM
Lots of misses on a spinnerbait isn't usually a hook problem. More likely it's presentation style, color, size, blade choice, or some other variable you need to change until they bite.

I always replace the stock hooks with red ones, including trebles. Bass are more likely to target a red hook, which increases hookups.

I don't recommend ataching a trailer hook to one part of a treble. The relatively thin wire won't hold a load well, the treble designed to directly hook a fish with at least one, usually two of the three points. Using one point would result in straightened hook points. You're much better of attaching the trailer hook to the spinnerbait body where the treble is connected, letting a leader trail behind the original hook. The leader ought o be tied to its own split ring to prevent abrasion from the main hook rubbing against a knot. Use a palomar knot to attach the rear hook. I'd use slightly lighter line for the trailer leader so if the more likely hangup happens, all you lose is the trailer.

clyde
Posted June 05, 2005 07:34 AM
Your skirt on the bait may be to long if you can trim iy off a little that might help , then again it might just be little nippers that are hitting.You usually don't put trailers on trebles.

Line_snapper
Posted June 05, 2005 11:50 AM
clyde: i could see the flashes of their sides and they were at leat 10 in bass.

ouachitabassangler: it isnt a normal spinner bait you cant really change anything on it. (it costs 97 cents) and i dont think it has split rings but i will check when mom gets home cause my stuff is in her car.

SuwanneePaul: ouachitabassangler is right it would probly break with the fish pulling on it.

Papa_D: yeah ur probly right.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 05, 2005 05:26 PM
If the spinnerbait doesn't have a split ring holding the hook on, I'd try to add one. You're much better off with one or two high quality spinnerbaits that can be modified than using cheap lures. While a good spinnerbait will eat a $5 bill up, replacement blades can be bought for 15 cents apiece and more, skirts can be made from Hobby Lobby bulk materials, the rubber bands from a local medical supply selling orthodontic bands, and hooks are cheap in bulk off the internet. I've been fishing since the 1950's and have yet to own more than 6 spinnerbaits at a time, but all are high quality. I have an entire box dedicated to spinnerbait/buzzbait parts, however, giving me the equivalent of hundreds of spinnerbait styles. I prefer old spinnerbaits that squeek over new ones that need breaking in, so tend to keep the old ones in service until they get hung up on bottom. When I lose one, I buy one.

Line_snapper
Posted June 05, 2005 10:07 PM
okay....

well the only spinnerbait tHAT i have caughten fish on that is not an inline is a strike king rocket shad and works pretty well but i also dont really know a whole lot about spinnerbait science and stuff plus i am not really the kind of guy that like changes skirts and stuff on shore cause when i fish i only got like one-3 hrs and i try to fish every minutie of it but if it doesnt take too long i am willing to try it. and scince wallly-world doesnt have the best selection of fishing stuff i will have to order it out of my many fishing catalogs. probly cabellas or bass pro shops or i could find a site that is about bilding lures and sell spinnerbait parts and order it off of there... TO BE CONTINUED (LoL)

SuwanneePaul
Posted June 06, 2005 06:06 AM
I wasn't talking about only one point/bard wrap the wire around the shank of all three and bring the trailer to the center of the three barbs. That way you are using the whole treble hook for strength. Oh well maybe your Dad can show you.

clyde
Posted June 06, 2005 11:26 AM
Snapper check out Kevin VanDams web site he talks alot about spinners and how they work.If you don't really know about spinners some of what we're trying to tell you won't make since but he has a demo that will help and these folks know more about spinners than me , now if you want to pig and jig or jerk baits I'm your man.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 06, 2005 02:17 PM
Snapper, I can change 2-3 blades and a skirt in about a minute, losing most time locating the parts I want to change to. The blades just snap off and back on, and the skirts are just pushed on over the hook. You just need to buy a few ball bearing clips, an assortment of blades (chrome, gold, black to start with), make up a few skirts in advance. I've made skirts using the colored threads out of electric wire covering way back when I couldn't up and buy it when I wanted it. Cheerleader pom poms have great material, bought at Hobby Lobby. They have packages of all colors of tinsel and stuff that can make a killer skirt. I keep a little of different materials stuffed in little plastic prescription pill bottles.

You can use simple snap swivels to attach blades in a hurry. Ball bearing snap swivels are better. High quality ball bearing swivels are even better. Instead of using split rings as supplied on spinnerbaits, I replace them with butt rings so a simple needlenose pliar will work rather than mess with a split ring pliars, saving time. You can get all that from http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Content.aspx?src=home.htm for one place.

All that saves having to need 40 different spinnerbaits taking up a lot of space and adding weight, and saves a lot of money in the long run. You'll break a spinnerbait once in a while, but can reconfigure one many times before wearing it out.

catfishbrad
Posted June 06, 2005 03:07 PM
try a LEVERAGE spinnerbait they have trailer hooks built in

davesett2000
Posted June 06, 2005 03:13 PM
Jann's has a nice "variety pack" of skirts

For even more blades and skirts try
http://www.barlowstackle.com MUCHO # of skirts

http://www.staminainc.com (these guys have a decent variety pac of blades )

If you get a chance, check out what a tandem inline muskie spinner looks like...they have one treble up front and another as the trailer...
Like SuwanneePaul said, you can attach a second treble with a wire...
There ARE some that have a single Siwash as the trailer....but you want to make sure you attach the wire to where the treble is mounted...
One OTHER thing you can do is to take a needlenose pliars and bend the hooks on the treble OUT just a hair (be CAREFUL if you do this)...a little bit can make a LOT of difference


Line_snapper
Posted June 06, 2005 06:37 PM
okay guys my mom went to meijer and i grabbed a BOO YAH pond majic 3/16 oz white and it is a tandem and pretty much all i know is that colorado blades are for vibration and wilow are for flash and indiana is like a hybrid

davesett2000
Posted June 07, 2005 06:58 AM
Another thing about blades is that as a rule, if you have 3 baits the same weight, one with each of the 3 major types of blades, the Colorado blade one will run shallowest and the willow one will run the deepest, with the Indiana one in the middle.

Also...the willow will be the MOST weedless of the 3.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/14/2005 9:31:38 AM

Tying Knots

Animated knot courtesy of canepole

http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php

And other sites...

http://www.tnoutdoorsmen.com/knots.htm

http://www.fish4fun.com/knots.htm

http://www.how-to-fish.com/fishing_knots.htm

http://www.activeangler.com/articles/how-to/articles/knots/index.asp

http://www.fishingcairns.com.au/page6-1.html

http://www.troutlet.com/fishing_knots/index.htm

http://www.sea-fishing.org/modules.php?name=Fishing_Knots

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/15/2005 9:44:27 AM

Advice on Birdsnests from the Archived Topic in the Bass Forum <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Thanks to ALL who contributed to this thread <!--graemlin:;)-->

svelain Posted February 19, 2005 08:29 PM
I bought my first baitcaster and no matter what, I always seem to birdsnest the line. I spend more time trying to fix my line than fishing. Any tips or tricks?

kaos Posted February 19, 2005 09:58 PM
Hey there the way that I learned is to use a heavier lure and keep my thumb gently against the spool to control the spin....My dad told me that they didn’t have brakes back then (he’s old lol ) and that’s how they did it all the time...also make sure you stop the spool when your lure hits the water...this helps a lot also...good luck bud

Yellow Bear Posted February 19, 2005 10:16 PM
Adjust your reel to the weight of your lure.
When you tye a bait on, raise your rod tip and hold the spool with your thumb. Now press the button. Now raise your thumb off of the spool. If the bait stays put, adjust the reel so that the weight of the bait pulls the line out. Then tighten the reel just enough to stop the fall.

P. W. Posted February 20, 2005 02:54 PM
I'm new to baitcasters as well, but in my initial investigation was warned that what reel you buy makes a huge difference. I was strongly encouraged by many to begin with a good one even though it was expensive. I bought a Curado. I've been practicing and have only birdsnested it twice. The first time it took me 45 minutes to fix it and about 50' of line. The second time, about 20 minutes later after about 15 minutes but no line loss.

Here's what I've learned in practicing and receiving instructions from other boards I frequent.

1) The birds nest occurs when you fail to stop the spool from spinning when the lure hits the water or ground if you are practicing.

2) Setting the brakes properly controls how fast the line comes of the spool. The Curado has 6 breaks. I was told to set them in an on off pattern with three on and three off alternating.

3) The cast control knob needs to be set so that the line barely drops with the lure on it.

4) Use at least a 3/8 weight / lure when practicing. The higher the weight and # test of the line the easier it is to get the hang of it.

Hope this helps. I'm really enjoying my Curado and have yet to birds nest it again.

The Rod Tosser Posted February 20, 2005 07:03 PM
a few tips adjust the spool spin screw so that the lure barely drops on its own weight you will nead to adjust this with each new lure .

turn the magnetic brake set‘em to 100%

and lastly you could make a decent cast strip out a little more line then put a strip of electric tape across e the line and your birds nests wont go any deeper then the electric tape line.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 22, 2005 04:22 AM
All the above advice will cure most of your problems.

I would add never fill the spool more than within about 1/8 inch of level-full. High memory line makes a backlash more likely. I know it's tempting to go ahead and use that last little bit of line left on the refill spool, but you're better off leaving it there. Use it for leader material.

Cast with a swing instead of a snap at first.

Bring the Variable Brake System down from 100% fully On after you are successful at 100% (start pushing alternate pins in away from center of spool). Some Curado owners remove them altogether by pulling the pins all the way out past the retaining clip.

With a Curado, if the backlash is happening mostly at the beginning of the cast, the problem is best controlled with the push-pull pin Variable Braking system accessed under the side turnkey cover. Be careful opening it, it comes completely off and could be dropped in the lake.

If the backlash is happening at the end of the cast, the spool tension knob is still too loose, so turn it clockwise a little more.

Today I spooled up two new rod/reel rigs and went fishing. Both reels are Curado, one rod a 7 1/2 foot flippin stick, the other a 7 foot cranking rod. I set the variable brake on 100% (pins all the way extended away from center), set the spool tension so the 3/8 oz Shad Rap took the slightest bump to begin a slow fall with spool released (thumb button pushed in). With thumb on spool I made a long sweeping gentle cast with the crankin rod, released thumb, did not re-apply thumb. The bait landed loudly on the water about 55 yards away, and the spool stopped dead right then, with no overrun. I then tried a really hard cast for 100 yards and got a small overrun (birdsnest). I got the overrun close to the boat. Since I already had maximum variable braking on there was no remedy for a hard cast with such a light bait. I tied on a 3/4 jig and got 100 yards easily (on 8 pound line), no overrun, no thumbing. Lure weight simply must fall within the ranges intended for both rod and reel if I am to expect efficient, consistent casting.

The flippin stick performed in the same manner, though distance was much shorter using 17 pound mono. I usually do better with 30-40 # braid, but cold clear water is not the time to use it. I'm using Berkley Vanish Transition and love it.

Just messing around experimenting I caught and released three foot long bass.

eiturner01 Posted February 24, 2005 06:03 AM
wow, 100 yards, that’s a heck of a cast

my advice for learning, stay off the water, concentrate on casting, not catching fish, if you're on the water, you're thinking fish, not practice, just like flycasting. 2 - 3/8 to 1/2 oz or more, depending on the rating of you're equipment. 3 - crank the spool tension all the way down and start there, only release it a little at a time until you become comfortable with it. Take a gentle cast, not snaps or trying to throw the bait across the ocean at this point. One step and then the next gets you where you are going.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 24, 2005 02:04 PM
On our deer lease we have a clean pond where there is a floating tire, the rims filled with styrofoam. One is at 25 yds, 50, 75, and 100. They are there to practice, practice, practice. I tie on a bell weight of different size and aim for the tires. Occasionally we have a contest to see who's best. Some of the teenagers beat us every time. 100 yards isn't a big deal with the right equipment and line, and a heavy enough lure that'll glide well. Casting downwind I often let off enough line to see the end of the spool. I don't usually want to cast that far, just can. My point was that if the reel is set right you should be able to cast long distance with no birdsnest, no help from thumb. The reel spool ought to just stop when the lure hits the water.

davesett2000 Posted February 25, 2005 11:39 AM
You got me started Josh...

100 YARDS is 300 feet... the length of a FOOTBALL field...

Sorry Jim...I have a hard time believing that someone can hit a tire at 300 FEET with any kind of consistency...

I DO know that long casts are possible...but it would be interesting to see a 3/4 oz jig travel 300 FEET...????

And for that matter, the world record is 817 feet...(with an 8 ounce lead weight)...

But I would bet SERIOUS money that the average person casting a (1/2 to 1 oz) LURE (not a sinker) would be darn LUCKY to get it out 150 FEET (50 yards)...(This is the distance advertised for the Rapala DT series)...

Also...I would think that having something like your "course" would be better at 25, 50 75 and 100 FEET intervals....MUCH more common casting distances....and a LOT more in need of accuracy...

ouachitabassangler Posted February 26, 2005 03:38 AM
I don't know how I kept missing that. 100 FEET consistently. Sorry about the confusion. I'm also mixing up casting lures in water and bell weights out in the water, and didn't read back to see what was disputed. Baitcasting a jig at 100 yards would be impossible.

The tires, though, are set in YARDS. There's one teenager that has hit it and we had to let him have the case of beer, but he had to drink it there. He's the first and only winner of that case of beer. I've never been able to hit it but have come within about 30 feet. Down there we snag catfish below a lock on the Arkansas River. We use 12 foot salt water rigs with 6 oz lead and a 3 inch wide treble hook. They don't bite it- it snags them. We can only get within 100 yards (300 feet) of the dam due to a regulation and constant reminders from the dam operator's blow horn. I've seen people cast and snag the dam. I've almost hit it. That's where the fish are, at the foot of the dam. I don't know why the record is less than that, as it's regularly broken there.

The tire at 100 yards is of course not a reasonable target, but the first two are. On the ground we have coffee cans buried like a golf cup, for accuracy practice. The tires are there for fun. The cans are mostly there for the kids to compete for tackle prizes. That keeps them busy practicing for an event.

Maybe I need rest.

Pferox69 Posted February 26, 2005 04:48 AM
Well, I am from the old thumb-brake days and thanks to carpal tunnel I had to retire my bait casters. I must admit that I cried as they were carried away by a youngin' that I gave em to. But I did keep one for old times sake, and use it once in a while to see if I could still do it.

The only suggestion I have is to PRACTICE PRACTICE, and then PRACTICE.

I had lots of different reel types when I got my first Garcia bait caster. But after that I became a one rod and reel person for years. And I can say I got pretty good at it.

Oh yea I guess thats the another suggestion, for the next 20 or so years don't use anything else but Bait Casters, repetition makes perfection.

For salt fishin down here I still use a garcia reel on a 14 foot rod with 4 to 6 ounces of weight and 100 plus yards is a piece of cake.

Oh yea another suggestion I have is to use a premium line like Berkley Big Game, I'd stay in the 15 to 20 pound range. Just cause it is easier to untangle, and it doesn't cut into the spool as bad. In the beginning, the object is to cast bait not catch fish. (sorry I stole that line but it is a good one, worth stealin) I would stay away from the braided stuff until you really get the hang of it if nuthin else cause of the cost of lost line while cuttin out birds nests.

I sure do miss my bait casters. I has taken me a long time to get those spinnin reels to do what I could with a bait caster but its gettin there.

Is it really true that they make reels that you don't need to use your thumb anymore? Wow what will technology think of next, but will they cast my little 1/8 oz snook jigs? Now that is the question.

Robert Horn Posted February 26, 2005 07:55 AM
It is possible to set the new baitcast reels so that you do not have to thumb them prior to your lure hitting the water. When going for accuracy it is better to thumb the spool to drop the lure in softly exactly where you wish it to land. Ten years ago I was throwing 1/32 oz. bullet weights on a Texas rigged worm, keep in mind you have to add a 1/0 or 2/0 hook and a worm, so the rig weight is probably closer to 1/16 oz. or a tad more. Today, on the newer models I often throw a 1/8 oz. tungsten bullet weight on a Texas rigged soft plastic. One mistake I try to avoid on the newer baitcasters is not to try making an overhand cast when I have the reel freed-up for pitch casting. There are those of you out there who can run in free spool mode at all times and still cast overhand, pitch cast, or flip cast with no serious over-runs or backlashed knots, but I am not to that level yet, LOL! Rob in Paris, Tx.

davesett2000 Posted February 28, 2005 12:39 PM
Jim...thanks for clearing that up...

I've never heard of the "can" thing, but whatever works...

I too have one of those surf rigs, so I can relate to that...

Pferox69 and Robert....thanks for the "experiences"

ouachitabassangler Posted March 01, 2005 05:55 PM
Robert, I'm glad you pointed that out. I don't recommend not thumbing either, but the reel ought to be set that well. Without thumb control the lure will almost always land loudly and spook finicky bass. You ought not hardly hear a lure hit the surface. If it slaps the water you need a lot of practice with a lower trajectory and slowing the fall with thumb control. Sometimes a little whip sideways or backwards jerk will help moderate the way a lure hits. I don't think any two anglers would develop the same technique. It just takes some body language to refine the entry momentum.

Dave, that's why we set up the 2 pound plastic coffee cans like golf course holes. They are full of water. The idea is to practice accuracy as well as lure entry so as to create minimal splash. When I first tried it I would plop at least a cup of water out on every cast. Now the displacement is more like a few tablespoons at most using a bell weight. It requires an underhand cast, keeping the weight just a few feet above water. The rod tip almost hits ground on release, then the weight arcs up a few feet then back down. You thump a slow stop to drop the weight in the can, with a slight jerk back to kill momentum. I went out in the yard to go through this so I could describe it better, but can't without watching myself. Some anglers just lay a can on its side and try to skip a lure into it without spinning it- a direct hit to the can bottom.

Some of you have all winter to work on that.

Jim in Florida, there is a $500 electronic reel that would cast that 1/8 oz lure. I'd suggest a spinning reel for such a light lure. Bait casters work best starting around 1/2 oz, but as the quality increases the lighter the lure can be to a point. The line will probably always be the main factor that prevents the perfect baitcaster that can cast any weight. Maybe someday they will come out with a reel that generates a real spider web line with zero resistance that matches the load being cast. Until then I will carry both baitcaster and spinning rig.

I understand pain in casting. That drove me to begin casting underhanded for most casts, under 50 feet, and a sideways cast for longer casts. I'll alternate long casts using wrist, forearm, and stationary elbow. My problem has been shoulder joints for many years. I find the load on them almost negligible as long as I don't use vertical movements.

Dave, I thought casting 300 feet to the dam to be quite a feat, but compared to the world record that's pitiful. Those snagging distances depend on line, and of course selection of rod & reel quality. A lighter 40 pound line would do it with 4-6 oz sinker, but the line needed to boat or land 100# plus Arkansas River cats requires at least 80-100#. The river current adds a lot of fight since most snags get them in the side. That's what I used down there with a 12 foot saltwater rod & reel, able only to cast maybe 250 with any consistency. Due to shoulder problems I no longer snag anyway.

WALLEE Posted March 07, 2005 07:07 PM
Sounds, like... All the brakes (little plastic inserts) are off (pushed in) gently pop them out CAREFULLY..Adjust your lures and use the recommend line dia. for your reel.

getdanet1 Posted March 10, 2005 05:06 PM
Hi Guys,
I learned this tip from Musky Hall of Famer Larry Ramsell.
He's a tough old pro who wants to see you put fish in the boat and is not afraid to show his disappointment if you are screwing up.

You have to figure that you are paying your tuition to go out with a pro. You should be paying attention and learning something. Of course it helps a great deal when you put some of those green nasty critters in the net and get a show off picture too.

As you are making your cast, turn your hand so that the reel handle is facing up as the line is playing out. The line on your spool will flow a lot smoother. Then get your rod transferred over to your other hand before the lure touches down so you are ready to start your retrieve immediately.
Always keep a close eye on your spool tension adjustment as all the forward casts will eventually loosen your setting and allow your spool to spin faster than you expect it to.

I have no experience with lighter type baitcasters as I always use spinning gear in those situations.

Try spoolin' up with some Cortland braid. I use the black spot 50 -100 lb or my Musky rigs.
They are coming out with line for spinning and smaller baitcasters like bass gear. It feeds out very well and in the case of a very infrequent bird nest, it's a lot easier to restore than mono line.

ouachitabassangler Posted March 16, 2005 07:42 PM

I've been paying closer attention to my own habits and see there are lots of little things about casting that go unnoticed. One of them is that I hold my thumb above the spool as the line goes out, not quite touching it. I think I got into that wanting to feel any wild loop happening so I could clamp down on a cast to limit a backlash. I think that works pretty good. Since starting that my cast swing is a lot more controlled, smoother, more deliberate with follow through like a golfer does. My follow through swing has a little pull back at the end of it just before lure touchdown. I had my partner watch several times trying to describe this. It appears the rod tip finishes a forward movement, then arcs back upon putting thumb pressure on, resulting in a pop of the lure back to me a little, enough to break its momentum. While my partner's lure consistently hits water maybe 60 mph with a huge splash, mine just drops in quietly. We'll tape it someday and try to nail that down better, as I'm sure that sounds a little confusing. I just can't quite see it from my perspective out there.

Another cause of backlash I've been noticing is how so many people jerk a cast out without a full deliberate swing. We were sitting in the boats at noon the other day, talking about three tournaments here last weekend when a school of bass broke, the first break we've seen this year. One guy in the other boat just lobbed his lure underhanded and backwards accurately, but ruined the cast with a huge tangle. My partner repeated the same error. They reminded me to keep my cool and cast carefully. I caught 4 LMBs in the time it took them to get back to fishing. Lesson learned among 4 fishermen. Don't hurry a baitcaster. Treat it like it'll break if you snap it. Eventually you will learn to snap-cast successfully, but don't try it early on. The others also now see why I keep 6 rod/reel outfits tied with lures ready to switch, able to leave a bass or two flopping at my feet with baits still hooked while I toss another offering. When they go down from breaking I take time to clear their mouths and put em away. The other boat left when that happened, but we stayed. The bass went down but didn't leave. We caught our limits and then some, averaging 2.7 pounds each.

kaos Posted April 17, 2005 11:14 PM
I have had good luck with what Basspro says about puttin your thumb on the side of the drum and not the line

papa_d Posted April 18, 2005 03:46 AM
I FOUND THAT THE VERY EASIEST WAY TO CONTROL THE NESTING PROBLEM IS NOT TO FEED THE BIRDS. SO; I QUIT USING ALL BAITCASTERS! I NOW ONLY USE AUTO CAST AND SPINNING, "NO MORE BIRDNEST'S".

ouachitabassangler Posted April 18, 2005 04:19 AM
Hey, papa_d, when they come out with that little remote helicopter that drops the lure for ya I'll let ya know.

Ohio93 Posted April 18, 2005 02:34 PM
I’ve heard they thought about even adding a casting competition in the next Summer Olympics!! Finally a competition I could tune in to watch

papa_d Posted April 18, 2005 03:17 PM
HEY THERE JIM; YOU KNOW THEY GOT THE BOAT WITH THE ALL MIGHTY SEEING EYE NOW. MAYBE EYE CAN HITCH A RIDE THERE...

PA John Posted April 18, 2005 04:18 PM
For all of you that want to cast far, here is the item you need. At then Harrisburg Sportsman Show was a dealer selling a cannon that shot lures out to 300yards. They were trying to sell them to surf fisherman.
Maybe NAFC will have it for field testing soon.

bucketface Posted May 08, 2005 04:33 PM
Even the pros get an overrun once in a while. I remember Jimmie Huston say he knew he was in trouble that day he had an overrun on the toilet paper holder before he left the hotel.

ouachitabassangler Posted May 08, 2005 04:54 PM
The next birdsnest you get try this. Place your thumb over the mess and apply some pressure, Reel in more line while dragging thumb, two or three revolutions. Then slowly peel the line off. Most of the kinks pop out in the order they laid down. When you get to the last few (original kinks), do it again.

Keep in mind the problem is almost always a spool that's traveling too freely at the time the lure is slowing down before touchdown. That allows excess line to pack up under new line coming off the spool still spinning faster than needed. Tighten it up a little. Use plenty of weight for the line, matching line and bait to rod and reel specs.

Robert Horn Posted May 19, 2005 07:29 PM
1) Set the spool tension control knob properly, where the rod is held at a 45 degree angle and the lure slowly drops and stops when it contacts the water.
2) Roll it back and pick it out, roll it back and pick it out. Depress the spool release, roll the spool back with your thumb and use your thumb and forefinger to pick the knots out.
3) It takes mucho patience and downright dogged determination, otherwise you are left with the last ditch solution, i. e. cutting the line off the spool and re-spooling with more line.

bassinfool Posted May 22, 2005 05:08 AM
First you need a quality reel. I originally tried a couple of the cheaper reels and had nothing but problems. In fact, I quit using baitcasters all together! Then I decided to try again, and this time I went with a better real (around $100 each) and had substantially more success. Rob is right when he says you need to set up the reel correctly and you need to practice, practice, practice.

On most baitcasters there are two ways to control the spool. There is a nob next to the handle and usually some type of magnectic backlash contol. Use Robs setting instructions for setting the spool tension and set the backlash control on the high side. Now go into your back yard and start casting. As soon as the lure/weight hits the grass, get your thumb on the spool to stop it from spinning. When you start seeing some success, back off the anti-backlash control to a lower number. Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.

kibtzz Posted May 23, 2005 05:01 PM
An old trick, but, I always have succes with it setting up a baitcaster. Put a bait that you may use regularly on the outfit; angle up about 45degrees and then play with your tension/magnet settings until the bait just barely falls when you twitch the rod. then use your thumb as mentioned above. Patience and godd eyes are a virtue while you learn this technique

Line_snapper Posted May 23, 2005 07:08 PM
well i have never even touched a bait caster they sound like alot of problems so i hink im just gunna stick with spinning reels

andrew smith Posted May 23, 2005 07:14 PM
Trust me, if you're big into bass fishing with artificial lures, get a baitcaster. If you get a good quality one(by quality I don't mean a $300 dollar baitcaster, I mean one from a good manufacturer, like Abu Garcia, Quantum, Shimano, Bass Pro Shops, etc etc.) Do NOT, I mean NOT go cheapo, as you will most likely get nothing but problems.

kibtzz Posted May 24, 2005 12:09 PM
A good baitcaster is a lot like a woman, got to get to know her, first. . There are times that you'll be glad you did. I prefer a good spinning outfit; however, there are situations that I'm glad I have baitcasters even when you run into a "professional overrun"

ouachitabassangler Posted May 24, 2005 06:54 PM
Backlashes will happen from of too light of a lure letting the spool spin faster than line going out. An interruption in the cast can cause it. A smooth arm action with follow-through will prevent most backlashes. Casting into the wind will do it big time. A jerky cast will do it.

Backlashes are a series of simple loops laying over the spool, put on simply, so if you're digging line out you'll just make knots. Put some thumb tension on the spool and wind in some line, then release the spool and gently pull line out. when you get to a hard Spot, do that again. Do that several times before going to the next step. When working on a tough tangle, remember how easily it layed down, so don't get too complicated with line contortions. I use the end of a plastic comb to gently raise and loosen a layer of line without moving line sideways, then put the thumb pressure on, wind it again, then peel it off. Work small lengths at a time, not geting in a hurry to strip line.

From my days of using old level winders with no antireverse I got in the habit of riding the spool with my thumb on the cast. Whwn I release the thumb bar my thumb remains close to the spool. It costs a little distance if you touch the spinning spool, but the instant I feel anything wrong under the thumb, I clamp down and abort the cast to minimize tangles.

bigfish05 Posted May 25, 2005 01:48 PM
i do not know how good of a combo i have but here it is: reel= shimano B-100Mag
rod=shimano graphite C B1-GC1552 length 5'6" med action.
a fishing buddy gave this to me since he knows i am a diehard saltwater angler. is this a good rod and reel

andrew smith Posted May 25, 2005 04:09 PM
I'm not familiar with the reel or rod, but Shimano makes good products, so most likely it is.

fishnman Posted May 25, 2005 06:55 PM
can anyone give me some pointers on how to cast a baitcaster overhand. everytime i try all i get i cast that goes very short and splshes down right in front of me. i got side arm casting down but trying it overhand is giving me troubles ive tried releasing earlyier but maybe not early enough. its a round baitcaster (the ones used for muskie fishing)
thanks!!

getdanet1 Posted May 25, 2005 07:16 PM
Hey Fishinman, Here's a few things you can try.
1. Make sure your bait to spool tension is correct.
That means that your tension knob should be set to when you hold your rod out in front of you and release the bail the bait will fall at a easy steady pace. If it doesn't, either tighten or loosen the set knob 'till you get it right.
This needs to be done with each different bait you are going to use.

2. When you go to cast overhand, imagine that there is a big clock next to you on your right side, if right handed. If you held your rod straight up, it would be at twelve O'clock.
As you start your cast your rod should be at the one or two o'clock posistion back over your shoulder.

As your arm comes forward, your release should be at the Eleven o'clock posistion. You can use thumb pressure to control your line output or stop the spool completely in the case you may snag or tree cast.

3. As you release, use your wrist and turn your rod so that the reel spool is facing you sideways. This will allow your line to spool out a lot easier and go farther. Once you master that, you can work on moving your rod to the other hand and be ready to start your retrieve as soon as your lure hits the water.

Check your tension adjustment often. All those forward casts tend to loosen it. That will get you a nice birdsnest. Good luck. Hope this info helps ya. If it is confusing, let me know and I will try and draw and scan a pic for you.

Robert Horn Posted May 26, 2005 08:33 AM
Shimano reels are fine reels, and they make nice rods too. I started out with a Bantam Shimano reel, ouch many years ago man it hurts to think about it, and a 5 1/2 foot rod out in the yard learning how to cast it and pick the backlashes out. What you have should be great to get you started, later if you want to you can go to longer baitcasting rods. If you do decide to get a longer rod someday, be sure to watch all around you when practicing or fishing from the bank so that you have enough room around you that you will not hit anything with your rod when you cast. Rob in Paris, Tx.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/17/2005 10:28:31 AM

Online Boat Trailer Wiring Diagrams <!--graemlin::cool:-->


http://www.easternmarine.com/em_showroom/tech_info/light_tech.html

http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm

This last one here is an Adobe PDF file that you can save to your computer <!--graemlin::cool:-->

http://www.searay.com/PDF/Towing_Guide/4wiring.pdf#search='boat%20trailer%20%20wiring%20%20schematic'

MotorWiring courtesy of dawsonb

http://www.outboard-motors.us/wiring/

Used Parts for Johnson / Evinrude motors <!--graemlin::cool:--> Thanks Crazy4bass <!--graemlin:;)-->

quote:

Originally posted by Crazy4Bass:
I hope I've saved the best for last. <!--graemlin:;)-->
I picked up a fellows name & info on another forum. I understand he has a HUGE warehouse full of used Evinrude/Johnson parts. A couple of guys looking for near impossible parts found them with him AND were NOT charged thru the nose. Check him out- Danny White, Ph# 205-631-9396. Located in Gardendale, AL. Mike

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/24/2005 1:47:46 PM

Spawning Basics

Spawning activities begin to take place depending on water temperatures for ALL species of fish. For example, both largemouth and smallmouth begin at approx. 60 degrees, and may continue into the low '70's. Given limited spawning areas, the fish will "take turns" on the beds. SOME may not spawn at all.

Type of water will have an effect on how fast the temperature will warm up. For example, as a rule, the north side of a lake will warm up faster than most other areas. Also, shallow lakes will warm up faster than deep ones. And even further, a round-shaped lake will warm faster that a long narrow one. Spring-fed lakes will also warm more slowly than seepage lakes or reservoirs (depending on the type of river feeding the resv.)

Wind and wave action can also play a factor in this process.

So while the bass in a shallow, round muck-bottomed seepage lake can be DONE spawning in April, they may not have even start in a deep, long, narrow spring-fed lake until June.

Some fish, like walleye, trout and salmon, will migrate up a river to spawn. Some of the trout varieties spawn in the fall instead of spring.

Below is a chart I made from a couple of websites, showing spawning teperature ranges. I would almost bet that if you went to 10 different websites, you'll get 10 different ranges, so don't be surprised if you see different ones posted on the 'Net.

Originally posted by: wme96 on 6/24/2005 2:37:07 PM

Dave thanks for keepin track of this thread you've got it full og good links and info. <!--graemlin::)-->

Originally posted by: wme96 on 6/24/2005 2:48:34 PM

Dave I check out the Lake Michigan on and at first glance I thought it was Fla without the panhandle. It was strange just seein the lake outline by itself <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 6/29/2005 7:19:19 PM

dave how much info and stuff can u find maybe u want to kick back and let me do it a while <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/30/2005 11:30:31 AM

<!--graemlin::D--> Hey Brad ....if you (or anyone else for that matter) can find or have stuff that's NOT already here, be MY guest...

I just like sharing info and getting stuff to help people <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/30/2005 3:14:18 PM

http://www.gloomis.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 7/6/2005 9:13:18 AM

Info and Parts for making your OWN Lures

http://www.tacklemaking.com

You can make casting spoons from old flatware from the dinner table....

And if you have a small / strong drill bit, and the handles of the spoons are big enough, you can make jigging spoons from them <!--graemlin::cool:-->

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com

http://www.staminainc.com

http://www.barlowstackle.com

http://www.hiltsmolds.com/

http://www.luremaking.com/index.htm

http://www.del-mart.com/

Cabelas also puts out a catalog dedicated to tackle-making http://www.cabelas.com

http://www.make-your-own-fishing-lures.com/

http://www.tacklemaking.com/tacklemakers/default.php?content=knowledge/hb_crankbaits

Rollie & Helen's Muskie Shop in Wisconsin have a great selection of Lexan lips...among other goodies...

http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/cart/navigate.php/nav_id/14

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 7/11/2005 2:54:39 PM

Here's a webite where you can purchase fishing & hunting licenses for several states...

I DON'T know if they charge an EXTRA fee though, so Do Your Homework <!--graemlin::eek:-->

http://www.wildlifelicense.com/

Originally posted by: The Rod Tosser on 7/28/2005 1:33:56 PM

Posted July 27, 2005 07:25 PM
heres a few for fly tying and fihing. http://tie1on.net/
A Fly Tying Workshop and Instruction Tie-1-On.Net
http://www.about-flyfishing.com/
Flyfishing - Fly Patterns, Fly Fishing Articles and Resources
http://www.diptera.co.uk/
Diptera - Fly Fishing and Fly Tying Pattern Resource
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/fly...chive.html
Fly Angler's OnLine - Beginning Fly Tying - Archivehttp://copperfly.net/
Fly Tying Tutorials for beginners - Copperfly.net - Fly Tying Instructions
http://www.branhamssaltwaterflytying.com/default.asp
Joe Branham's Saltwater Fly Tying
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/
Salmon and Steelhead Fly Tying Guidehttp://www.troutflies.com/tutorials/
t r o u t f l i e s . c o m

and one for basics for beginers
http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/beginners.html
Fly Fishing for Beginners

free software for flytying
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze20umg/downloads.htm
Downloads
if you can run dos try this one too
http://www.erobillard.com/SuperFly/
SuperFly Fishing Machine

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 7/28/2005 1:37:27 PM

Thanks Rod <!--graemlin::cool:-->

I fixed this oNE link for ya... <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Salmon and Steelhead Fly Tying Guide http://www.troutflies.com/tutorials/

http://www.troutflies.com

Found this today...

http://www.fishspawn.com/blog/

Originally posted by: The Rod Tosser on 7/28/2005 1:41:48 PM

thanks

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 8/1/2005 12:40:39 PM

http://www.lakesofwood.com/index.html

Originally posted by: The Rod Tosser on 8/2/2005 6:40:47 PM

free fishing log software. anglers assistant

just look in the help derectory to learn how to use .

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 8/3/2005 7:54:52 AM

An easy way to take notes on the water is to record them on a small personal cassette recorder, and then write / type them later in the day...

I did a search at Office Depot website for such recorders and found one as low as $29.95 <!--graemlin::cool:-->

They MAY be even LESS other places <!--graemlin:;)-->

Microcassette Recorders at Office Depot

Originally posted by: smileyw on 8/10/2005 6:05:54 AM

sure do appeaciat all the help and info dave and guys,i am working on finding my around ,one can have a hard time finding things twise somtimes!!!!!lol b.o. c. roger will ck it out

Originally posted by: smileyw on 8/12/2005 7:33:05 PM

dave,
earlier i heard you mention the ''fishing clubs library but im not finding the link????????

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 8/15/2005 12:19:22 PM

Hi all... <!--graemlin::)-->

This is a consolidation of several posts made by Members in the "Catfish" Forum concerning Catfish baits...Thanks Guys!


mitchell man Posted July 25, 2005 06:35 AM July 25, 2005 06:35 AM
I was wonderin if any of ya’ll could tell me some of ur favorite catifish bait recipes just out of curiosity? I’ve heard so pretty outrageous ones but most of them worked. So if ya can I’d like to know

Celliach Posted July 25, 2005 11:51 AM July 25, 2005 11:51 AM
Here's a few sites on the internet for dough and stink bait recipes:

http://www.lake-online.com/fishinhole/catfish-bait-recipes.html

http://www.willontheweb.com/fishing/baitrecipes.html

http://www.carpanglersgroup.com/doughballrecipes.html

http://www.whiskerkitty.com/catfish_bait_recipes.html

And here is a link for boilies, dough bait's British cousin:

http://www.carpanglersgroup.com/boilierecipes.html

quote:

Originally posted by Rebel Cat:
Hay dave how's about adding mine to that list?

http://www.rebelcatscatfishingclub.com

We love Catfishing Eric <!--graemlin::)-->

quote:

Originally posted by Rebel Cat:
brother I bet you do , you just gotta be where they are or know where they are! learn there habitats , what they feed on , and whats works in rat's or my area , may not work in yours. I use strickly live or cut bait where targeting hawgs , but , thats not to say that you will not catch a big fish with one of the other baits. I about crapped in my britches when I saw my first 8# channel cat caught on preperration H! ( No Joke! ) You just have to try what works! I bet in that nice lake you fish in , some cattracker dip bait would work PERFECT! Mr Spam himself has a saop bait that would also work very well in slck water! I refuse to put his link up , but theres aall kinds of baits that will work really well. But , for blues , skip jack , gills and so forth seem to be the "go To bait" Hope this helps. I will say this though , rat is one of the most consistant blue hunter's I know!

quote:

Originally posted by roadkill_ray:
My son's and I went catfishing the only thing was we did not have any chicken liver, so my son's may a sugestion. Hey dad we have that deer liver in the freezer, lets try that, so I did. We semi-thawed it and I sliced it in thin slivers, as it thawed it look like a leech and it stayed on the hook better and we caught several fish, including sun fish and bass, the catfish measuer from 18 to 26 inches. So who needs chicken liver when you have deer liver. So all you hunters that fish,next time you go hunting, save the deer liver and try it, you will be surprise of the results.It will also save you money in chicken liver plus, you get more.So If you use this sugestion please, let us know your opinion and the success you may have. My e-mai; is, roadkill_ray@yahoo.com. Hope to hear from you. Good luck and be safe on the water. Roadkillray. Boyers, Pa. Life Member

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 8/20/2005 5:35:14 PM

If you ask someone what they thing is the most versitile bait is chances are there going to say a spinnerbait.I have been known to throw a spinnerbait every now and then but I just can't see how a spinner is as versitile as people say it is. It is no where near as versitile as a soft plastic. You don't see people crawling a spinner on bottom like a tube or flipping it like you do a worm or craw. Spinnerbaits can be cranked,slow rolled,yo-yoed, and burned, you can do the exact same thing with a soft plastics plus you can skip it,flip it,pitch it, swim it and much much more.If you were to catch a glimpse in my tackle box you would see 7 of my favorite BOOYAH spinners a bunch of cranks plus about 25+ pounds of different soft plastics, and thats it. Fishing spinners there is a better chance of getting stuck on a log, but with plastics 90% of the time they are rigged weedlessso there is less chance of getting hung. Plastics are also more appealing to bass, especial in clear water. If you're favorite time of the year to fish is in the spring during pre- and post- spawn I say leave the spinners at home and take your tubes,lizards,worm,and craws and hold on tight.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 8/20/2005 7:36:26 PM

A good part of the reason why plastics work so well during the spawn and the post-spawn is that the fish are generally lethargic...

But during pre-spawn they are trying to eat in preparation for spawning and are more likely to be more agressive...

The biggest knock on spinnerbaits throughout this period is that they don't float...HOWEVER...there ARE things you can do and tactics you can use with these and similar type baits that will up the anty during this period...

Here is an inline spinner made by Mepps...



I'm NOT advocating running out and buying these...but if you take the basic design of this inline spinner...and take a look at...

1. The variety of blades possible...
2. The variety of bodies you can use making them...
3. The variety of hooks that can be used...

You will see that some VERY light combinations can be made..which decreases the SINK factor of spinners...AND gives fish something they do NOT see very often <!--graemlin::cool:-->

On the spinnerbait side, using a light-weight spinnerbait with a larger than usual hook and a plastic of some kind...along with a Colorado blade...will slow these types of baits "sink factor" as well...

Add to these above combinations a LOW gear Ratio real ( a Zebco 33 with 3 / 1 comes to mind quickly) and you broaden the scope of your presentations immensely...and although these may NOT be popular with the "tournemant crowd", they ARE viable techniques for the time period <!--graemlin::)-->

Originally posted by: Rebel Cat on 10/2/2005 2:42:49 AM

Hay dave how's about addin myine to that list?


http://www.rebelcatscatfishingclub.com

We love Catfishing


Eric <!--graemlin::)-->

Originally posted by: Rebel Cat on 10/3/2005 12:44:08 PM

whooop's , sorry dave posted in the wrong topic! LMAO!


Thankx
Eric

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 10/8/2005 4:41:03 PM

Here's a website that you can check the current weather conditions and the 5 day forecast too by typing either the Zipcode OR the name combination of the city / state....

http://www.weatherstreet.com/

Originally posted by: pillman on 10/16/2005 8:29:20 AM

you da man, Dave! just helped me find some lake maps that I couldn't remember how to locate.

Originally posted by: wme96 on 10/18/2005 9:43:33 PM

Great info on here Dave I use this thread as a reference a lot. Thanks

Originally posted by: Robert Horn on 10/19/2005 7:09:09 PM

I dropped by the other day to get a link to help a guy on the Bill Dance site out! Hey Dave, now you take that mepps spinner up there, it also resembles a shad, and if you add a bit of chartreus to that Mister Twister grub trailer, well it ought to do real good about now on certain lakes. Rob Horn in Paris, Tx.

Originally posted by: Celliach on 11/16/2005 9:19:30 AM

I was thinking that it might be a good idea to set up a web page with all these links. Not that Dave hasn't done a great job. Just thought it might be easier to find a particular link if they were catagorized, alphabatized....
I'm pretty sure I just ripped my hernia open again and I'm not planning on doing anything for the next month or so. (Seeing the Doc this afternoon to find out more.) I just thought it might be an idea to put that to together on one of the free website places, and it would keep me from going stir crazy. Any feedback?

Originally posted by: 1fishinmusician on 11/17/2005 9:30:19 AM

Here's a link for east coast and gulf shore surf fisherfolks. http://www.pierandsurf.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 11/20/2005 10:16:55 AM

Hi all... <!--graemlin::)-->

A while back I saw that Tom & Laure Larson were planning for their prize trip to Bakers Narrows Lodge next year, and Mrs. Mossback had questions about crossing the border...

A quick look at the Lodge's website gave me this link to a section where they give good advice on what you need to get through Customs with a minimum of hassles...

http://www.gonorthwest.com/Visitor/planning/border/border.htm

http://www.nationalspeedassociation.com/border_crossing.html

http://www.blackbearadventure.com/article/tips-for-our-usa-guests-7.asp

http://portal.grsu.by/portal/LIBRARY/CD1/travel/visa/tips_can.htm

Originally posted by: papa_d on 11/20/2005 12:01:24 PM

BOY DAVID; I REALLY GOT LOST IN THIS POST OF YOURS... I ENDED UP SAVING SIX SITES TO MY BOOKMARKS... <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 11/25/2005 2:17:22 PM

Traveling / Driving Preparedness

In SOME ways, I guess you could say that I’ve been blessed over the years with a bit of training when it comes to vehicles. Between growing up on a farm, working as an apprentice mechanic while in college and then 7 ½ years traveling in the Army has given me a fairly sound basic education about road-trips, travel and being prepared.

One of the FIRST things you should do before a trip is to let family / friends know of your plans. Quite obviously, having someone at your destination know of your plans is a MAJOR plus, but if there are any ALONG your path of travel, giving them advance warning can also be a lifesaver. You should tell these chosen folks your basic itinerary, approximate arrival time, and even any possible “side trips” you may make along the way.

Have SPARE keys available…wallet…purse…hidden on the vehicle…SOMEWHERE accessible.

Other BEFORE trip items to consider are:
1) Get a tune-up
2) Have your brakes checked.
3) Have your wheel bearings checked and repacked.
4) Have your front end and tires checked, and check on your spare, plus make sure you have a jack and lug nut wrench.
5) Have an oil change / lube job done.
6) Check your wiper blades.
7) Check ALL of your lights.

If you stop and think about the times your vehicle has left you stranded, you MIGHT find that most roadside breakdowns are caused by a relatively minor problem such as being out of fuel, a leaking radiator hose, flat tire, dead battery or blown fuse. Why sit on the side of the highway waiting for an expensive tow when you could spend a few minutes and dollars AHEAD of time and be well-enough prepared to fix the problem and be able to drive to the garage if still needed?

Simply by storing a few inexpensive tools and other items in the luggage compartment of your vehicle, you can get going again. The items listed below are basic and many of them may already be in your house or garage and take up little space in the vehicle. However, you'll be glad for every one of them if you break down. Here's what every driver should have on hand:

Things That Should Be in Your Car

A few basic tools and some safety gear can get you going when you break down...

1. Glove box
Apart from storing the car registration, insurance papers and owner's manual, every glove box should contain the following: a state and local road map, penlight flashlight with new batteries, box of spare fuses and a few hand wipes. You could also keep a copy of your driver's license and AAA / roadside insurance membership card. Additionally, a pre-paid telephone calling card is a great idea; cell phones don't work well everywhere. Check to see if your cellphone will work to and from where you're going. Make SURE you at LEAST take a charger. You can also consider renting a Satellite phone for the trip.

2. Spare tire and jack
The number one thing to make sure you have is a properly inflated spare tire, tire jack and lug wrench strong enough to loosen the tires’ nuts. Replacing the little micky-mouse spare that comes with MOST cars these days with a REAL tire & rim is a big plus, as chances are if you blow a tire on the road, you’ll have to buy a new one anyway, so might as well get it over with head of time, and save yourself the extra time and expense. The location of these items will depend upon the type of vehicle you own. On trucks and SUVs for example, the spare is located under the vehicle and in some cars it is located under the hood along with the jack. Consult the owner's manual for location and then make sure the tire is properly inflated and in good condition and that the jack works. Also, make sure you know how to use them. Practice changing a tire at home so that when it happens on the freeway, you'll know what you are doing. Also consider carrying a can of tire sealer for small punctures.

3. Luggage compartment
Vital items for the trunk include spare turn signal / brake light bulbs and headlamps, a first-aid kit, roll of vinyl tape for emergency radiator hose and wiring repairs, a couple of good knives, jumper cables and / or a battery jumper pack for dead batteries, large flashlight with extra batteries, small hand tool kit (pliers, screwdriver, adjustable wrench, etc.), safety reflectors, emergency road flares, a gallon of coolant AND a gallon of distilled water in case you burst a hose and an empty fuel can. (NEVER carry a can of fuel IN the vehicle while traveling; in a collision, this could be dangerous.) A couple of bungee cords are also a good idea in case you have to fasten anything down. A pair of coveralls and work gloves stored in a small bag will allow you to tackle any roadside problem and keep your street clothes clean. A jar of hand cleaner and a few small towels or MORE handy-wipes are also a good idea. A roll of toilet paper can come in REAL handy

4. Other goodies to have along
In addition to the basics, you can also keep a car blanket, spare jacket, folding umbrella and hat on hand for comfort. Additionally, a liter bottle of water can be used for drinking or to supplement the coolant in case of overheating and a few energy bars are handy just in case you are stuck for a while.

5. Inclement-weather box
For inclement-weather driving, you can add a small box of extra stuff that includes a 5-lb. bag of cat litter to aid traction on slick wet surfaces, spare pair of warm gloves, rain suit / poncho, rubber slipovers to keep shoes dry and a small ground tarp for laying over cold, wet ground. For traveling in possible COLD weather, consider a HEAVY parka, sleeping bag, cold weather boots and mittens, a snow shovel.

Going the EXTRA yard

Tools
1) 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive socket sets, including deep-well sockets
2) Sets of both open end and box-end wrenches
3) A GOOD quality multi-tip screwdriver
4) Phillips and flat-tip LONG handle (12" or more) screwdrivers
5) Wheel bearing packer, grease gun and grease
6) Wire brushes and battery post cleaners
7) Long handled magnetic pick-up tool in case you drop a screw or nut
8) A 1/2 or 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket to fit the lug nuts on your wheels, and / OR a 12 volt Impact Wrench
9) 12 volt air compressor...better yet, one of those "combination" power stations that can jump your engine, power AC/DC items...a "Do-ALL"
10) A can of Liquid Wrench
11) 24” crowbar / prybar
12) A couple of cans of Tire Sealer
13) Radiator Leak Sealer
14) A small fire exti

Originally posted by: walleyemen on 11/26/2005 6:53:07 PM

Davesett2000 looking for a website were i can design a boat name with a graphic of my own choice and can view it as well. can ya help obby one!!!!!

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 1/15/2006 11:02:58 PM

Bass Pro's Websites

Art Ferguson http://www.artoffishing.com/

Chet Douthit http://www.bassnedge.com/douthit/index.html

Dennis Garland http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-DennisGarland/

Denny & Chad Brauer http://www.brauerbass.com/

Dustin Wilks http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-RogerBoler/

Edwin Evers http://www.edwinevers.net/

Gerald Swindle http://www.geraldswindle.com/

Guido & Dion Hibdon http://www.hibdons.com/

Guy Eaker http://www.guyeaker.com/pro/

Jason Quinn http://www.jasonquinnbasspro.com/

Jay Yelas http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-JayYelas/

Jim Phillips http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-JimPhillips/

Kathy Magers http://www.fishingworld.com/GoneFishin/

Kelly Jordon http://www.kellyjordon.com/

Ken Cook http://www.stabor.com/kencook.html

Kevin Vandam http://www.kevinvandam.com/

Kevin Wirth http://www.1fghp.com/Wirth/index.html/

Kotaro Kiriyama http://www.kotakiriyama.com/

Larry Nixon http://www.larrynixon.net/

Lee Bailey Jr. http://www.leebaileyjr.com/

Mark Burgess http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-MarkBurgess/

Mark Davis http://www.markdavis.net/

Mark Kile http://www.markkile.com/

Mark Menendez http://www.livingweblibrary.com/menendez/

Michael J Iaconelli http://www.mikeiaconelli.com/

Mike Folkestad http://www.mikefolkestad.com/

Randy Howell http://www.randyhowell.com/

Rick Clunn http://www.rickclunn.com/

Roger Boler http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-RogerBoler/

Steve Sennikoff http://www.stevesennikoff.com/

Tim Horton http://www.timmyhorton.com/

Todd Faircloth http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-ToddFaircloth/

Wesley A Strader http://www.straderfishing.com/

Woo Davis http://www.woodaves.com/

Celebrities etc...

http://www.npaa.net/memMain.html

http://www.freshwater-fishing.org/ (Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame)

http://www.igfa.org/ (International Game Fish Association)

http://probassfishinghof.com (Pro Bass Fishing Hall of Fame)

http://www.billdanceoutdoors.com/

http://www.hankparker.com/

Roland Martin http://www.fishingwithrolandmartin.com/

http://www.jimmyhouston.com/

http://www.leftykreh.com/links.html

http://www.lindnermedia.com/pages/home.shtml

Shaw E. Grigsby Jr. http://www.one-more-cast.com/

Ray Scott http://www.rayscott.net/

http://www.tonydean.com/

http://www.yamamoto.baits.com/

http://www.fishingworld.com/Pro-RickClunn/

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 3/22/2006 9:00:18 PM

Last year the Eds had run a Topic thread for Member Tips. This is a consolidation of those...I have left the individual contributers' names and dates....just edited out the "banter" type stuff. Enjoy!

Unique and valuable tips of any kind are welcomed and encouraged. Do you have a special method to modify lures that makes them run deeper, straighter or with more action? Have you come up with a boat rigging idea that makes fishing more fun or efficient? Perhaps your tip will save other members time and/or money.

Let us hear about it by replying to this post, or better still, by emailing it to: editors@fishingclub.com. Or, you can send it via U.S. Mail to: NAFC Fishing Club Journal, P.O. Box 3403, Minnetonka, MN 55343-2103.

gonecatfishin Posted October 09, 2004 08:35 AM
Often times I find myself wanting to fish a deep hole or outside bend on one of the rivers around here, but since my boat is gone, I have to walk to the spot. I have rigged up a "Lil Red Wagon" with pontoons. The pontoons are simply 8" PVC with end caps. They run the length of the wagon and will quite easily float my tackle, my bait, my little cooler. With the wagon and a pair of chest waders, I am able me to walk in the river, towing my gear behind me floating lazily along.

This allows me to get to places for shore fishing that are otherwise inaccessible due to trees, bluffs, etc.

PAPPADIDDY Posted October 09, 2004 10:23 AM
HEY GONECATFISHING; SOUNDS AS THOUGH YOU MAY HAVE A POSSIBLE RONCO PRODUCT THERE. MAYBE YOU SHOULD DEVELOPE IT INTO A PRODUCT FOR THE FISHERMAN WITHOUT A BOAT. I THINK THATS HOW BILL GATES GOT STARTED!!! YOU NEVER KNOW! GONE CATFISHING WATER TAXI...

Mother Nature Posted October 14, 2004 10:08 PM
You can attach the license plate on your boat trailer with a stainless steel hinge. It will keep the license plate from bending when you pull your trailer in and out of the water and the stainless steel hinge won't rust.

WalleyeWayne Posted October 15, 2004 05:10 AM
But won’t a hinged plate flap up & down when trailering down the highway?


Mother Nature Posted October 15, 2004 06:01 AM
I don't think so, just make sure you use one that is heavy enough to hold the plate... but then again there is always a chance if you are moving fast enough for anything to happen

LIPRIPPER Posted October 16, 2004 09:51 AM
Ok here is something EYE learned the hard way.
When fishing for Kitty-Kats from the bank (or you could use it from a boat also) drill a hole through the handle of your rod and attach a small chain or one of those big strong stringers through the hole and stick it in the ground for security and to keep from losing your pole when one of them big ol Kitty-Kats decide to take off with it Even if ya have it in a rod holder don't think it's safe because I had this very thing happen to me. I was fishing from the bank and had my pole in a rod holder fishing with shad guts and if ya do much catfishing you know how them ol Kitty-Kats love to ya by playing with your line back and forth back and forth then they leave it alone so you think they stopped biting when all of a sudden WHAM away they go Well ya would think you be safe with it in the holder and all Well guess again That big ol Kitty-Kat took off and there went my pole right into the water Yelp it bent that holder like it was nothing. So that's why ya need extra security

silversalmon Posted October 16, 2004 02:01 PM
Okay, here is question to all of us spinning fisherman, have you ever tried fly fishing, well, I have and scared myself half to death . I came up with an alternative to it, and it works on any fly eating fish. Get yourself a clear torpedo bobber and tie it to your line. Then, take some light weight fly line and tie it to the other side of the bobber about 18-24 inches works great. Tie your fly on the end of that and let her drift down the river , if I cannot find the color of the day, this alternative has proven its weight in gold same as fly fishing without all of the um, well for me, attempting to cast myself into the river

silversalmon Posted October 16, 2004 02:05 PM
Have another, to all those that fish for Coho salmon from the shore in salt water. Are you sick of losing lures that run 5 bucks a piece, I know I was. This is what I do now and catch my limit everytime I fish for those lovely, tasty, gorgeous, damn, sorry tangent. Anyway, but a bobber on that line and set the hook 18 inches under with a chunk of herring, never fails. The good thing is you can get your own herring so all you have to get are the bobbers, well and the beer

gonecatfishin Posted October 18, 2004 07:56 PM
Cutbait for Salmon! LOL
I got yelled at one day cuz I was catching LMB on cutbait haha.

Mother Nature Posted October 19, 2004 07:25 AM
Ok I have one... It probably isn't new but is always a great reminder...

If you are new to fishing or new to using a baitcaster you will want to practice before you get out on the water and spend all day fussing with backlashes... Solution: Tie on a lure that has the hooks removed. Visit your back yard and make some practice casts. Once you can cast without getting a backlash you will want to loosen up the spool tension and get the best cast you can out of that lure. Make sure you take it slow because now your bait will fly and so will the spool. Once you have a good distance you can use an old bucket for a target or even the dogs water dish. Then get a smaller target as you improve your casting abilities.

The fun part starts when you add a chair to that practice. Some of us fish out of boats and when you are in a boat it is a lot different casting than when you are on the bank so adding a chair will help you with the difference in height.

flyman Posted October 19, 2004 09:11 PM
Here's a good one for fly tiers, instead of using heavy mono for weed guards on your flies try using a piece of larva lace tubing. It's small diameter lets you tie it in at the head of the fly and place the other end over the hook point. When a fish hits it gives way and all you do is replace it over the point of the hooks and start fishing again. I never missed a fish yet using this method, and it keeps the weeds off better than mono weed guards.

Musky Fishin Kevin Posted October 31, 2004 04:21 PM
Mine concerns several aspects of Musky fishing. Lately you hear many Musky Fisherman, including some popular guides.. Saying stuff about Figure 8's for following fish.. What they are saying as of late is don't waste your time unless you see a fish following, only do a "J" or "L" next to the boat.. What many of these people seem to be missing is the fish that comes up by the boat but out of site and is hanging underneath the boat, this fish may not appear with a "L" or "J".. However this fish may suddenly appear out of no where if you do a customary figure 8(for me this entails at least two full 8's). As for how exactly you do your figure 8 that can depend on many things… especially the type of lure you are using.. Sometimes I do a "True" 8...in other words in the exact shape of a 8.. Other times all I do is a very large circle (always try and keep your turns wide as you are chasing a fish that grows upwards of 60 inches.. Nice sharp turns she can't make... Big wide ones can be what it takes to keep her interested.. Some lures can be fig. 8'd with tip out of the water...some work better with the tip in the water. I have fished with some guides who insist that out of the water works best.. I have caught multiple with tip in the water myself. Sudden movements, shouting, rocking the boat, stomping your feet are all things that may spook a following Musky during the Fig 8. One last thing I am adamant about in my boat when it comes to Musky and figure 8's is color choice of your clothing, yep, you read that correctly.. Your favorite red shirt...yellow one.. bright orange one...etc... Not good.. What's your Background? Lots of trees(green), high blue sky(blues), cloudy(grey and tan)... For whatever reason Black and Brown seem to also work in most conditions, but are not my first choice. I also feel this color thing applies to rain gear.. I can't believe how many people I see out fishing in the rain wearing bright yellow, blaze orange, or red.. its raining out, the sky doesn't look like that.. Blue is a better choice but definitely not the best.. I prefer Grey and Green.. Green may not be the best either, but usually there are some trees near the shoreline I am fishing by..

sscasteel Posted December 10, 2004 12:53 PM
If you need some cheap bait for yourself or to put on little kids poles for Perch and Blue Gill, get a sack of macaroni and place several pieces in water until it becomes fairly soft. Then thread it onto a small bait holder hook or a # 6 or #8 unsnelled gold Aberdeen hook. Either use the weight of the hook and bait or a small bobber to toss out with or drop straight down off a dock & No sinker, let it sink naturally. Fish of all types, not having seen this before think it is a bug and grab/suck it in.
A small twister grub with tail damages can become a piece of bug looking bait as well. Pull the body into small pieces, thread onto small hooks and let them sink naturally under their own weight.
I have cleaned many fish, [ mostly Perch, Blue Gill, but a few LMB, Catfish, and Crappie, also] and sent them to the frying pan, thanks to their curiosity, dropping any caution to the wind, and their hunger for these strange baits.

sscasteel Posted December 10, 2004 01:00 PM
A cheap and in-expensive hook holder for your rod can be made from a small single foot guide [with or without a ceramic ring in it] off a damaged fishing rod or a snake guide off a fly rod. Scotch tape the guide on the pole where you want it and wrap tight with sewing thread. Then Superglue the thread all around the rod. A clear nail polish can be used after Superglue is dry to make a better than rough looking outer coating.

sscasteel Posted December 10, 2004 01:11 PM
For fast replacement of a damaged single foot ceramic guide, first find an almost, if not matching replacement with the ceramic ring. Heat the broken guide with a cigarette lighter. when the metal frame starts to turn red. grab the damaged guide with a pair of pliers [needle nose best] pull the old guide out, then real fast, replace the new one back into the hole made from the old guide, The exterior coating and thread usually will not be hurt if any. Use the pliers if needed, to get the guide back in 100%. By hand, Line the guide up straight with all the other guides then drip several drops of Superglue at the back and around the foot of the guide. Most of the time the Superglue will seep right in and dry within 60 seconds. Rod is then ready to use again.

davesett2000 Posted December 10, 2004 02:50 PM
If you have a tackle box that is missing dividers, and you can't get them from the manufacturer, you can cut pieces out from old plastic coffee can lids or some types of CD / cassette tape holders. You can ALSO cut out pieces from PRINGLES can top or frosting can tops, old Tupperware and similar things...

If it's a Plano box....they usually carry replacements...

I don't know about Flambeau... I've never had to replace any in one of their boxes...

ouachitabassangler Posted December 11, 2004 04:22 PM
I made my own rod holder attached to the front of the console. I tried a commercial rod holder but it was too small and wasted space, and the next size up was too long.

I screwed a cheap Stanley Storage Clip strip horizontally across the console about 18" off the floor. It comes in various lengths, mine having five metal clamps that can slide along a track. Next I glued some 1.5" PVC tees together with a 90 degree elbow at one end for an extra socket for the rod handle, each tee turned up to provide more sockets to hold the butts. I left the other end open to permit drainage, then screwed that assembly to the console at the floor. I cut pieces of 1" plastic tubing to fit over the metal clamp jaws, boiled them about 20 seconds to soften, then slipped them on to pad the rods. It works well enough I can trailer the rods in the clamps. No more rods being stepped on. Rods are pre-rigged for different opportunities and easily snatched for a quick change of casting plans.

Next I'll put a similar rig along the side for a partner.

ouachitabassangler Posted December 17, 2004 05:35 AM
I read recently about using old sparkplugs to retreive a hung bait and just wanted to report it works really well. Put the anode over the line, mash it down on the cathode, and let it down. Doodle it around to lossen the bait, bringing it and the plug back up.

sscasteel Posted December 17, 2004 08:25 AM
My father and I have used the Spark plug method for years [1970's] on tube jig lead heads and feathered jigs and it really works. We however use a regular sized Paper clip attached to the plug and slip the line into the center section of the clip. Try to get as straight up/down over your bait as possible and drop it. KEEP YOUR LINE SOLID, NO SLACK... Plug slides down to bait and you feel a knock. Lower your rod a small amount and usually the leadhead is free. Bring in the bait, take off the plug, re-straighten you bait and fish again. IF NOT, raise your rod fast and get the line tight and then lower up/down and most of the time the hook comes loose.
We keep a few pre built plugs in a can in the boat or a couple in the tackle box.

As my father and I are "die hard" Crappie fishermen, and fish in LOTS of brush and trees we get hung up often. This plug method can save you from re-tying 50-70% of the time and over a years time, I figure we save at least $124.00 in lead heads or feathered jigs alone.

sscasteel Posted December 17, 2004 08:44 AM
I love to fish around rocky areas, Esp. for Crappie and Walleye below Reservoir Dams. While fishing these Rip-Rap areas with [2] jigs feathered or tube, You get hung up now and then between rocks when fishing too close to the bottom.

To get loose, I reel my line up snug and holding my rod high, pull the line in front of the reel until the rod is bent tight [like fighting a real pulling fish] I then release the line and lower the rod forward in almost the same motion. This creates a backward SNAP LIKE motion sending it back down the line to the hung up bait between [2] rocks. The lead head then jumps backward enough to come free. Reel it in fast, or reel in still fishing, back to the bank.
THIS TAKES PRACTICE.. to get down pat, and you may have to do this 1-7 times before success. [7] times on a real hard hook set into the rocks. After [7] times I usually break the line and re-tie. You can get your lead head back up to 50-60% of the time.
BE PREPARED.. to set the hook after getting your leadhead free. Sometimes nearby Fish see the lead head jump loose from the rock and thinking it is food escaping, bite/strike it.

Smalliecatcher Posted December 17, 2004 09:40 AM
I don't know if it just me but screwing down your foot control for your trolling motor in the middle of your deck is not good for me . So I bought some Velcro and screwed a strip on each side of the frount deck. Then the other side had same Plax glass glued to the plax drilled threw the rubber plugs on the foot control use small bolts to hold that on. So know when I fish to the left I more it so I face to the left with both may feet straight to the left not cocking your hip out to get to the trolling motor in the middle. This helps to fish with no pain from having your foot cocked croaked. You can lift it off the left and put it on the right side. It works for people that fish the front in your boat in a Tournament he or she can ajust it to where it comfortable for them. Denny

Smalliecatcher Posted December 18, 2004 07:39 AM
Another tip for ice fishing . Tip ups put a button on your line threw two holes of the button. Find your depth and slide the button to the line holder by the spool. Two things this does you have your depth after you catch a fish reel line to button again and it is the same depth you just caught the fish at. Another is Northern fishing if the tip up pops up you can see if he just took it a little because you can see the button in the hole then watch when he starts running more. It works for walleyes too. I now use a little little bobber it adjust easier but the button everyone has buttons around and they are cheap. Cost nothing. Bobbers cost but all bait stores have these little one. Denny

ouachitabassangler Posted December 18, 2004 03:09 PM
About screwing the foot control down, I don't like it. I tried that a few years ago. Way too often I had to fish off the port because of wind or boat orientation, in which case I couldn't reach it and had to stand the whole time, tough to do in rough water. The only solution was to motor all the way up a shore so I could turn around and fish off starboard. Pretty soon I undid that and had holes in the carpet and a permanent controller footprint. My last boat, a Ranger, had it recessed, which I didn't like either for the same reason, plus the bay filled with water & trash. I leave it loose.

robynr Posted December 19, 2004 06:16 AM
I use pipe insulation (the kind that has a slit in it that slips onto the pipe) to store my Mepp spinners in. You can cut off whatever length you like depending on the number of lures and choose whatever size works best. Can be used for any lures you choose though. The hooks sink into the foam and they don't get tangled up, fits in your back pocket and floats.

Orion Posted December 22, 2004 04:12 PM
If all else fail fall back to the all to classic night crawler or minnow

sqrlb82001 Posted January 03, 2005 11:11 AM
cut a sponge into several small, 1/16th X 1/16th to 1/4 X 1/4 inch squares then put them into a sealable container then add your favorite scent natural or store bought does't matter soak them for sometime then when ya go fishing take them along, slide one over your hook then add your other bait and go for it...

Robert Horn Posted January 09, 2005 07:59 AM
When I needed extra storage space for bags of soft plastics in my tackle system for a trip away from home, I took a 3700 latchable box and removed the two main dividers with a Dremel tool. I found that I could lay 12 bags of worms in it and still fasten the latches easily. I also use a label maker to put labels on the front of my latchable boxes, between the two latches, so I can open my tackle system and at a glance I know exactly what is in each of my boxes without having to pull them out and look thru them to find something while I'm out on the water fishing.

WadeK Posted January 14, 2005 02:47 PM
For an inexpensive hook sharpener, try a Lady's metal fingernail file. They're typically around $1 and often have 2 different grits. Use the coarse for re-shaping a hook point that was curled over on a rock and the fine for sharpening.

fishnfilet Posted January 25, 2005 03:57 PM
musky fishing Kevin... I lived in Florida for a time before returning back to N.Y and have learned about bright shirts for sure!! A nice powder blue is my choice. The fish looking up see's only the big blue sky and not the master stalking him!!!

KIRBY Posted February 04, 2005 02:52 PM
I’m to tight to pay for top of the line coolers, so what I have done is to drill a couple of holes in the lid and top of the cooler and spray in a few shots of spray foam. the sides do not take a lot, the lid holds more. Seems to make ice last longer.

fishermen23340 Posted February 07, 2005 04:38 AM
In a pinch if the band on you spinnerbait, jig, or buzzbait breaks while your fishing, you can take the band used to hold a trailer hook as a replacement to the one broken. Just insert the strands of the skirt into a ink pen with it's guts removed roll the band up the pens tapered end then over the back end onto the skirt. Now the skirts ready to be placed back onto the bait.

fishermen23340 Posted February 07, 2005 04:58 AM
Another good tip for getting lures out of snags when you forgot your knocker. Take a stick and wrap it around your line. Put lots of slack into your line and toss the stick up stream & across from your snagged lure. Let the current carry the stick down stream. Most times as the stick floats down it will pull your lure from the other side of the snag thus freeing it.

Thrash Posted March 06, 2005 10:44 AM
every summer I go sailing with my grandparents and I couldn't catch anything, I realized that fish like shiny things so I strung three cd's together with a weight at the bottom and lowered it into the water, sure enough about 5 seconds I pulled out a 3.6lb smallie

getdanet1 Posted February 14, 2006 06:02 PM
How to make a "Slip" Bobber from any plastic "Clip" Bobber. You know, the Red and White kind!!

Push the plunger down to expose the bottom hook of the bobber.
While holding it down, use your needlenose to close the hook to a loop against itself.
when you release the plunger, the loop will remain outside the body of the bobber.

Rig it through the loop the same way you would rig a stick type slip bobber.
Thread Knot first then bead thread through bottom loop of bobber, then the weight, then hook.

No more fiddling passing the line through the bobber. No more. line wear gouges in the stick


jims out fishing Posted March 22, 2006 06:33 AM
If you happen to get any monofilament line stuck in a tight spot and can’t get it out, spray a little bug spray on it…the deet will eat the mono only take a few minutes then wash it up real good

Originally posted by wahoohunter455 Posted April 21, 2005
Have you ever been troll fishing and seen the fish of a lifetime strike and miss. Here's a way to put an end to that. It's called the triple jeopardy stinger rig. The way you make it is simple. You take a length of fishing line, 'bout 3 feet long maybe 'bout 15 pound test and tie a long shank 2/0 hook on. Then you come up about 8 inches and tie on a short shanked, prefferably circular, 2/0 or 3/0 hook and come up another 4-5 inches and tie on another circular 2/0 or 3/0 hook. Now, you tie a surgeon's double loop, 'bout 5-6 inches total and put on a 2-4 ounce weight. Now you have a rig that you can cast, troll, and jig, while ensuring a strong hookset and greater hooking ability. The way ya use it is you use the hooks that are close together to hold a piece of bait fish and you maybe put a softplastic or small shrimp on the trailin hook
. It can be adapted for freshwater by changing the hook sizes to long shank #1 or 1/0 and circular 1/0 or 2/0 and 1/2 to 2 ounce weight. Well, adios and happy fishin".

Originally posted by: wellsley on 3/23/2006 12:27:23 PM

wowwwww you are definately the "ciber source' of the BB

Originally posted by: C F Hall on 3/23/2006 2:26:37 PM

Thanks Dave for taking the time to post these tips and links. All of it has been useful to me and I believe useful to others. <!--graemlin::)--> <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Originally posted by: jbird68 on 3/28/2006 9:55:54 PM

Don't forget Everlasting SLip Bobber

Great place to get quality slip bobbers.

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 3/29/2006 6:09:14 PM

dave need some help der 'ole pal...eye need a place where eye can build a site for my tournament carrer, but eye need a free one, anything you find will be better than what eye have nowww, which is nothing <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 4/21/2006 9:15:09 PM

Map Resources (both lake and topographical)

Electronic NOAA maps beginning at the Hudson River going all the way to Rainy Lake in Minnesota.

http://ocsdata.ncd.noaa.gov/OnLineV...rTable.htm

Army Corps of Engineers navigational maps, for which the river maps show wing dams

http://www.lrn.usace.army.mil/navigation.htm

http://www.iwr.usace.army.mil/ndc/n...dexmap.htm

ACOE History pdf doc

http://www.usace.army.mil/publicati...37/c-1.pdf

Army Corps of Engineers "Corps Lakes Gateway"

http://corpslakes.usace.army.mil/visitors/

ACOE Home Page

http://www.orn.usace.army.mil/

ACOE Recreation Page

http://www.usace.army.mil/recreation/

http://www.quickfacts.census.gov/qf...tmaps.html (Basic county maps of every state)

http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod/maps.html

http://ngmdb.usgs.gov/ImageLibrary/

http://www.fishinghotspots.com/fhsinet/

http://www.fishsniffer.com/maps/

http://www.sportsmansconnection.com/

http://www.comm.media.state.mn.us/bookstore/bookstore.asp (Minnesota Bookstore)

http://www.clarksonmap.com/lakemaps.html

http://www.utmaps.com/main.cfm

http://www.wnrmag.com/stories/2000/dec00/willowflo.htm (Willow Flowage in Wisconsin)

http://www.topozone.com/

http://www.terraserver.com

http://www.randmcnally.com/

http://www.delorme.com/atlasgaz/

http://www.navionics.com/

http://www.bwcamaps.com/ (McKenzie Maps - Boundary Waters Canoe Area)

Paper lake maps for 5 large Minnesota lakes...1 ft contour intervals...

http://www.reelbottom.com/servlet/Search?category=Paper+Maps or http://www.mapsbyyou.com/

http://www.trailextreme.com/fishing/

http://www.siue.edu/OSME/river/RiverLinks/RiverLinks1.htm

http://www.cdmapit.com/

http://www.gregbohn.com/modules/cart/products.php/page/.../GuideSecretLakeMaps

http://www.uslakeviews.com/

Saltwater

http://www.waterproofcharts.com/ Courtesy of Phantoms

http://saltwaterdirections.com/index.cfm

http://chartmaker.ncd.noaa.gov/

State by State

Alabama Rivers and Lakes

http://www.outdooralabama.com/fishing/freshwater/where/

Alaska Lake Maps

http://www.sf.adfg.state.ak.us/statewide/lakemaps.cfm

Arizona Game and Fish Webpage

http://www.azgfd.gov/h_f/fishing.shtml

Arkansas Fishing Info

http://www.agfc.state.ar.us/fishing_ol.html

http://www.agfc.state.ar.us/wma_lakes/agfc_lakes.html

California Fishing Info

http://www.dfg.ca.gov/fishing/index.html

Colorado Interactive Maps

http://ndis.nrel.colostate.edu/maps/

Connecticut Where to Fish

http://www.dep.state.ct.us/burnatr/fishing/fishinfo/wheretofish.htm

Delaware Fishing Information

http://www.dnrec.state.de.us/fw/fisharea.htm

Florida Interactive Fishing Maps

http://myfwc.com/fishing/oims/index.html

http://lakewatch.ifas.ufl.edu/MapList.htm (Florida Maps)

Georgia Lakes & River Info

http://georgiawildlife.dnr.state.ga.us/content/displayn...n.asp?TopCategory=14

Idaho Lake Maps and Info

http://fishandgame.idaho.gov/

Illinois Chain-O-Lakes Maps

http://www.lake-online.com/chainolakes/chainolakes_maps.html

http://www.fpdcc.com/tier3.php?content_id=67

Indiana State Parks & Lakes

http://www.in.gov/dnr/parklake/

http://www.indianainfo.net/

Kansas Fishing Info

http://www.kdwp.state.ks.us/news/fishing

Kentucky Lake & River Maps

http://fw.ky.gov/navigation.asp?cid=267

Louisiana Lake & River Maps

http://www.enlou.com/places/water.htm

Maine Lake Maps

http://www.maine.gov/ifw/fishing/depthmaps/index.htm

http://pearl.spatial.maine.edu/map.asp

Maryland Fishing Hotspots

http://www.dnr.state.md.us/fisheries/recreational/fwhot.html

Massachusetts Ponds

http://www.mass.gov/dfwele/dfw/dfw_pond.htm

Michigan Lakes

http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-30301_31431_32340---,00.html

http://www.fishweb.com/recreation/fishing/lakes/ (Michigan)

Minnesota

http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/maps/compass.html

http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/lakefind/index.html

Mississippi Lakes

http://www.mdwfp.com/level1/fishing.asp

http://www.mdwfp.com/level2/fisheries/pdf/maps/default.asp

Missouri Fishing HotSpots

http://www.mdc.mo.gov/fish/

Montana Fish Stocking Info

http://fwp.state.mt.us/fishing/guide/stockingplan.aspx?r=6

Nebraska Lake Maps

http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/programs/lakemapping/lakemaplist.asp

http://mapserver.ngpc.state.ne.us/website/gpc_land/viewer.htm

http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/guides/fishguide/FGwaters.asp

Nevada Fishable Waters by Species

http://ndow.org/fish/where/by_water/

New Hampshire Fishing Info

http://www.wildlife.state.nh.us/Fishing/fishing.htm

New Jersey Fishing Info

http://www.state.nj.us/dep/fgw/fishplc.htm

New Mexico Wildlife Areas & Matps

http://www.wildlife.state.nm.us/recreation/fishing/index.htm

http://www.wildlife.state.nm.us/recreation/fishing/docu.../fishingwatermap.pdf

New York – Lake Contour Maps

http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/9920.html

North Carolina Trout Fishing & Public Access

http://216.27.49.98/fs_index_03_fishing.htm

North Dakota Lake Contour Maps

http://gf.nd.gov/fishing/lakedata.html

Ohio Lakes – Free Fishing Lake Map

http://www.dnr.ohio.gov/wildlife/Fishing/lakemaps/lmaps.htm

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/index.php?page=lakemap

Oklahoma –

http://www.owrb.state.ok.us/news/publications/wa/lakesresources.php

Recreation Areas at http://www.recreation.gov

http://www.recreation.gov/advancedsearch.cfm?states=OK

http://www.okiefish.com/lake%20maps.htm

Oregon – Recreation Report

http://www.dfw.state.or.us/RR/

Pennsylvania Online Maps

http://sites.state.pa.us/PA_Exec/Fish_Boat/map/pfbcmaps/state.htm

http://sites.state.pa.us/PA_Exec/Fish_Boat/faqfish.htm#6

http://www.peckspond.com/maps.htm

Rhode Island - Interactive Map

http://204.139.0.188/website/fw/viewer.htm

South Carolina - Recreation Areas at http://www.recreation.gov

http://www.recreation.gov/advancedsearch.cfm?states=SC

South Dakota Lake Maps & Fish Surveys

http://www.sdgfp.info/Wildlife/fishing/Lakemaps/Index.htm

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers now has a toll-free number 1-866-285-3219 to access the Missouri River Information Center from which ALL Missouri River maps can be attained.

The corps also has a website at https://www.nwo.usace.army.mil/bnrmap/bnrmap?BNRPATH=/www2/bnr where the maps can be ordered online.

Lastly, contact or write the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for available Missouri River mappings and costs.

Lewis and Clark Lake -- Gavins Point Project, PO Box 710, Yankton, SD 57078 (402) 667-7873
Lake Francis Case -- Fort Randall Project, PO Box 199, Pickstown, SD 57357 (605) 487-7845
Lake Sharpe -- Big Bend Project, HC 69, Box 74, Chamberlain, SD 57325 (605) 245-2331
Lake Oahe -- Oahe Project, 28563 Powerhouse Rd. Rm 120, Pierre, SD 57501 (605) 224-5862

Tennessee - When & Where to Fish

http://www.state.tn.us/twra/fish/whenandwhere.html

Texas – Where to Fish

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/fish/recreational/wheretofish/

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/fish/recreational/lakes/

Utah Fishing Reports

http://wildlife.utah.gov/fishing/reports.php

Vermont Lake & Stream Maps

http://www.vtfishandwildlife.com/wma_maps.cfm

http://www.vtfishandwildlife.com/wmu_maps.cfm

Virginia Lake Where to Fish

http://www.dgif.state.va.us/fishing/where_to_fish/index.html

http://www.dgif.state.va.us/fishing/waterbodies/index.asp?type=1

Washington Lake Maps

http://www.washingtonlakes.com/TopoMaps.aspx

State Fishing Guide

http://wdfw.wa.gov/outreach/fishing/warmwtr.htm

West Virginia Favorite Fishing Waters

http://www.wvdnr.gov/Fishing/FavFishWaters.shtm

Wisconsin Maps

Trout Streams

http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/fhp/fish/regulations/2004/troutsalmon.shtml

Lakes

http://dnr.wi.gov/org/water/fhp/lakes/lakemap/

Wyoming Public Access Lakes and Rivers

http://www.wvdnr.gov/Fishing/FavFishWaters.shtm

Camping etc...

http://www.reserveusa.com/jsp/commonpage.jsp?goto=/maps/MN_CAMP.html

http://www.greennature.com/travel/index.php

http://www.recreation.gov/

http://recreation.usgs.gov/state_parks.html

http://activities.wildernet.com/index.cfm

Info on the Turtle-Flambeau Flowage in Wisconsin

http://www.turtleflambeauflowage.com/about.htm

http://www.wnrmag.com/stories/1997/jun97/turflam.htm

http://www.turtleflambeauflowagewisconsin.info/

Boundary Waters Canoe Area information sites

I think possibly the simplest way to check conditions at a specific site in the BWCA is to contact them directly....here's a link to their website...

http://www.superiornationalforest.org/bwcaw/

This is e-mail addy for Superior National Forest, which oversees the BWCA r9_superior_NF@fs.fed.us

And you can make reservations here http://www.bwcaw.org/

Other cool sites

http://boundarywaterscanoearea.com/

http://www.bwca.com/

http://away.com/gorp/publishers/wildernesspress/pad_eb14.htm

Searching the 'Net for lake maps

Besides the commercial companies that sell lake maps, several state's DNR websites have downloadable / printable lake maps for free.

But you can also find maps on the net by searching...

I've found 4 ways that will give you a pretty good overall search of what's on the 'Net...
You can use these "strings" in any Online Search Engine"...

For maps all over the USA, search these 3 ways...

"contour map" + lake
"hydrographic map" + lake
"bathymetric map" + lake
"depth map" + lake

For ones specific in a particular state, search with...

"contour map" + lake + (name of your state)
"hydrographic map" + lake + (name of your state)
"bathymetric map" + lake + (name of your state)
"depth map" + lake + (name of your state)

And if you want a SPECIFIC lake, use these...

"contour map" + lake + (name of your state) + (lake name)
"hydrographic map" + lake + (name of your state) + (lake name)
"bathymetric map" + lake + (name of your state) + (lake name)
"depth map" + lake + (name of your state) + (lake name)

So if I wanted one for Lake ET in Minnesota, my search strings would be...

"contour map" + lake + Minnesota + "ET Lake"
"hydrographic map" + lake + Minnesota + "ET Lake"
"bathymetric map" + lake + Minnesota + "ET Lake"
"depth map" + lake + Minnesota + "ET Lake"

You can ALSO substitute the word "reservoir" for "lake" <!--graemlin:;)-->

Make SURE you spell the name correctly or you may get something REALLY odd <!--graemlin::eek:-->

You may get something for all 4 lake ones...you may get none... <!--graemlin::(-->
But I have YET to find a more thorough way to do it <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 4/23/2006 3:24:16 PM

Here's a chart for guess-timating striper weight...

Originally posted by: hillbillyangler on 12/15/2006 2:41:33 AM

Folks Needing Info on fishing west Vigrinia Can Check out my Web site and Forum:

For The Website Click Here


For The Forum Click Here

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 1/15/2007 8:58:37 PM

Used outboards and parts <!--graemlin:;)-->

http://www.marineengine.com/

http://www.outboardrepairs.com/

Evinrude / Johnson / OMC

http://www.outboard-parts.com/ie4/index.htm

Johnson / Evinrude

http://www.stuartfla.com/outboard/

Repair / Used Parts

http://www.maxrules.com/fix.html

http://www.outboardsalvage.net/

http://www.marinepartsoutlet.com/outboard_parts.htm?source=overture

Mercury

http://www.oldmercs.com/

http://www.crowleymarine.com/omc_mercury_parts.cfm

http://www.anglersfishinginfo.com/classified/motors.html

http://www.marinepartsman.com/Sent_outboard_parts_service_manuals_Mercury_Yamaha_18.html

http://www.outboard-motors.us/

Misc.

http://www.brokeboats.com/lowerunits.html

http://www.sterndrive.info/id25.html

http://www.outboardexchange.com/outboard_parts.htm

http://www.anythingmarine.com/

http://www.usedoutboardparts.com/

http://www.sourceonemarine.com/marine-new-used-parts.html

http://www.stuartfla.com/outboard/

http://www.arcomarine.com/catalog.htm

http://www.obparts.com/

http://www.boatmotors.com/parts/?dz=3390

http://www.vintageoutboard.com/



Manuals

http://www.boatmotors.com/manuals.html

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/page/152693?OVRAW=%22outboard%20motor%22%20%2B%20manual&OVKEY=outboard%20motor%20manual&OVMTC=standard

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/marinemanuals.html

Used Motors

http://www.smalloutboards.com/

OUTBOARD MOTOR repair. Specializing in Evinrude and Johnson motors only. New and used parts. Outboards for sale. Gene's Outboard Motor Service, 208-773-7877

SPIRIT LAKE MARINE has moved to 3388 W. Hwy 54. Still servicing all makes I/O's, O/B's, Inboards, minor and major repairs. Summarizes. Certified mechanic on duty. New and used parts. 208-623-5306.

QUALITY OUTBOARD Repair, 22 years experience, new & used parts, outboards for sale. Randy 509-535-4395 Spokane

http://www.nicksoutboardmarine.com/

Originally posted by: masterld04 on 5/11/2007 8:10:47 PM

I often get this type response because of the IDIOTS who have come before me. I have found it a little bit easier if I stop and help this same Landowner/Farmer mend a fence, chase a cow, even fix a flat tire. Assisting this man/woman shows them we are not only out for ourselves. 9 times out of 10 I recieve an open invitation, sometimes I have to ask. I always carry a 5gal. bucket for my trash and pickup some of what those IDIOTS left behind. I go back after filleting my catch and offer 1/2 as a way of saying "THANK YOU", and to see if there is anything else he might need help with. Most of these people work alone, and have many things they just cannot do alone. You might even free up enough time for him/her to show you the "REAL GOOD SPOTS". Most of them appreciate the help almost as much as we appreciate the permission to fish. It works well for both sides, and usually takes very little time out of your day. TRY IT !!

davesett2000: "THANX" for the Info. I checked & called the "Daiwa", Reel Parts & "FINALLY" got a Crank Handle Assymbly. that no one 'round here can fix* Cause it's too Old...'99* They've got it, & soon so will I! I've Caught 50-65# Black Drums wit dat Puppy on the Tx. Gulf-Coast*,"Take Care" L8r. James,"VATO LOCO"<;({})><  

Glad you found what you needed!

A quick note to the rest of you out there. Unfrotunately....there are links in here that no longer work. I can't fix them because the "Edit" feature doesn't show for all the info that was transfered over from the old BB.

If you find a NEW link to something that is outdated in here....please feel free to add it

The Atlas of Canada....with printable topo maps...

http://atlas.nrcan.gc.ca/site/engli...index.html