Assembling Lake Trolls
Begin by cutting a length of cable (coated or non-coated) a few inches longer than the desired finished length of your troll. I already had a favorite commercially made lake troll so I used its length for my standard.
Next, attach a snap swivel to the wire using the correct size connection sleeve. Now this is another area that I used a commercially made troll to determine where I want to have the blades located. So, the next step would be to slide on another sleeve and crimp it where you want the first blade to stay.
Now you are ready to slide on your first blade. Special care needs to be taken here to make sure that the blade is facing the correct direction when in place. Slide a bead down the wire. This helps as an attractor and a swivel point for your clevis. Attach the blade to a clevis and slide it onto the cable, allowing it to settle against the bead (double check your direction of the blade at this point and at every location that you have a blade). I should note here that a clevis is not required when using the sonic blade. Add a couple of more beads and you are ready to place your next crimp, repeating the same process as the first crimp, beads and blade.
After the desired number of blades has been added, secure a barrel swivel to the wire, using a crimp and attach a split ring to the swivel and the rudder. I should note here that the use of a split ring to attach the rudder allows for interchanging of the rudders to other trolls (you won’t have to buy so many).
Crimp Sleeve Chart
Size Coated Wire Size
1 …………………………………………15 lb. test
2 …………………………………………20 lb. test
3 …………………………………………30 lb. test
4 ……………………………………Over 45 lb. test
Pictured below are some of my finished lake trolls. I hope you have enjoyed this thread and I look forward to responsible comment AND some pics of your finished lake trolls!
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LM since 2005 Bushwacker Deputy Sherif
from S.E. Pa.