qduke
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 10 Jun 2011 01:20 PM |
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The last few months have been a pain getting ready to PCS....But the biggest pain has to be the trim going out on my engine. Due to the PCS I had not had time to pay attention to my pride and joy, and I will be damned if she didn't let me know. I am getting to Madsion towards the end of the month and looking for a mechanic who knows the hydraulics. It is a 1989 Evinrude 150 hp engine Model number TE150SLCEM. I know the parts are expensive I checked, and it is definitely a take off job. I will be looking for an honest mechanic who is not going to take me to town....It happened to one of my friends here and $300 for a $10 relay seemed pretty high! His own fault for paying it. I would even be willing to help. I feel like I could do it myself, pretty handy mechanic, but I am not confident enough with boat engines, feel I may damage it worse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Mechanics if you have a business, please leave a name and I will get back to you while I drive from this hole called California.  |
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Badger
Advanced Poster
Posts:274
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| 10 Jun 2011 08:30 PM |
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Here's a place to start. I've dealt w/them before and they've treated me good. Don's Marine LLC N1401 State Road 113, Lodi, WI 53555 (608) 592-4705 Website Directions |
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| Hayward Lakes Wi ----- Life member since 1994
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qduke
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 10 Jun 2011 09:26 PM |
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Badger, Thank you for the info, I will give them a call tomorrow. Checked out their website, look like a great starting point to get comparisons. Duke |
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qduke
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 18 Jul 2011 11:04 PM |
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Well, I got over the fear of messing it up and did it myself! Got used hydraulics from a dealer, from a same model engine that blew cylinder. I used ratchet straps and a fork lift from work to pull the engine off. The rest was minor electrical and a few bolts. I actually sealed up some unsealed bolts, which were leaking before. I could not figure it out before, but had a very, very, small amount of water coming in. No problem, bit of Silicone and tightening of screws, and back on the water. Bone dry. Thank you for the information on the dealers. Calling them made me realize that it was going to cost me more than I could afford. It forced my hand and I had to make it happen. The stars aligned when I found the parts on ebay. $1200 new, $250 used, very easy choice!! |
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07gmcowner
New Poster
Posts:84
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| 19 Jul 2011 06:45 AM |
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Nice job on the repair. One ? on the bolts that you said were not sealed. Did they go through the transom? I've heard some horror stories lately about this happening and the transoms rotting because of the leak. This was mostly on tin boats like Alumacrafts and Lunds, but I suppose the same thing could happen to a glass boat of the glass is laid over a wood foundation. Did you notice any soft spots or weakness in the transom? |
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| Even if you've been fishing for three hours and haven't gotten anything except poison ivy and sunburn, you're still better off than the worm. - Author Unknown.
Matt in Whitewater, WI. |
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qduke
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 19 Jul 2011 04:39 PM |
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The bolts were the main four, two leading through the transom to the inside. I didn't notice any problems with the transom. Everything looked, and felt solid. It has been really warm here as you know, so I am hoping everything is, and stays bone dry. It did not leak a peep the last time I was out. It nearly makes me want to add a bit more silicon now that you said that. I am sure that could happen. That would be pretty wild to be out on a lake and lose the motor though!!! |
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07gmcowner
New Poster
Posts:84
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| 20 Jul 2011 08:55 AM |
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You probably already know this, but when you re-bolt the motor, you will want to use special marine-grade silicon. It's made by 3M, and can be found at most big-box stores such as Gander Mtn, Menards, Home Repo, etc. It's made specifically for under-water use, but I can't remember the name or # of it. I have a tube in my garage and if I remember correctly, it's a blue and white tooth-paste style of tube. When you apply it, put a ring around the holes in the inside and outside of the transom. Then put some on the bolt, push the bolt through, and hold the head of the bolt completely still. You only want to turn the nut on the inside of the transom. This will ensure that the bolt doesn't spin and after it dries, there is no leaking from the outside of the transom. |
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| Even if you've been fishing for three hours and haven't gotten anything except poison ivy and sunburn, you're still better off than the worm. - Author Unknown.
Matt in Whitewater, WI. |
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davesett2000
Veteran Poster
Posts:2212
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| 21 Jul 2011 03:01 PM |
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Congrats on the repair from me too. Having grown up on a small farm (400 acres) then pumping gas / apprentice mechanic work for 2 years while in college gives me appreciation for the DIY thoughts for sure.  Cudos to Matt for the marine silicone tip  Another tip is that they make a special marine grade wheel bearing grease that is good for the trailer. I never knew this until 2008 when I had to replace the bearings in the hubs on my jonboat trailer  Hope you are enjoying Wisconsin Duke...the EXTREME heat will go away soon  ANd thanks for being in service to our country  |
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Life Member David 2001 BB Linkmeister US Army 1978-1985 Western Wisconsin
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