Hello my name is james and i live in oklahoma and would like to start fly fishing. I have found some combos for a good price(under $100) the problem is that the reels all click on theese combos, the one I had about 12 years ago did the same and was discouraging so I gave it up,now i would like to ask you experts for some help,from what little I know i would like a 4wt w/9ft moderate action,will be fishing ponds mostly for panfish and largemouths.
Oklahoma Life Member Since 2009 OKARNG 45th Inf.

if you look at the reels most of the reels in the combo kits you find for around that price have a way to shut off the clickers.  I have a martin, there is a button on the back to slide down to turn it off, I have seen shakespeare and others have a small pinin the face of the reel, and I currenlty use pfluger reels and their reels, as in some shakespeare, you hit the reel spool release button, and pull out the spool, and you will find the "drag" clickers that are triangle shape, you just flip them so instead of the pointy side pointing towards the reel core, to pointing away and they will stop clicking,  I like the clickers on though, I mainly use fly rods on crappie bluegill etc, so a drag is not important, in fact I hand strip line and fight the fish in front of the reel,  the clicking is mainly just when you strip line or reel it up at the end of the day.  also on occasion I have hooked into decent pike on small 12 to 14 size poppers, and then the drag and clickers help imensly,  you would be amazed at how fast a 25 inch pike will mess your reel and flyline up if it runns to your reel, and then stops causing an overspin and creates a mess like in a bait caster, only problem is when the pike takes off again, the core of the flyline will actually cut the line sheath, and sheaths on successive coils beneath it, effectively forcing a respool, depending on the fly line you get it could get expensive if you do this 2-3 times in a summer.  im me if you have questions on how I do it, or if you need more help picking out combos.  I may not know it all, but I will try and help.  as for panfish, I use several sizes depending on situation from 3wt to 8 wt.  the 3 wt is a delicate tool and I often use it if you are in a mess of panfish especially crappies where there is not a full on bullnose run, on the other hand if I come across a lake with large mouths and pike that are more agressive than usual, I would tend to the higher sizes, and then switching to the 8wt to go for specifically for bass, but works good on pike to but is on the light side for everything over 30 inches or so.  I always think that for starter fly fisher people the good standard is 6wt, the reason being is that there are greater options in lines and easier to find,   often a float line with a wieght forward or rocket taper would be around $25 but for my 3 wt the same line would be around $45 just due to it is not used as much and not stocked as much, and they tend to figure you are fishing for trout at that point so you get into the more specialty lines.  most kits you find will be in 5-8 wt.  any will work,  it is what feels comfortable in your hand and how uch spine you want, again depending on your target fish. I also find that a 5-6 wt is perfect for first time casters due to the weight of the fly line almost casts itself,  it rolls the tippet over nice and easy with moderate tippet size.  I find if you use 3 wt. the approach is much softer  or the tippet will overoll and end up in a ball on the top of the water, where as on the heavy weight you will really have to push the rod and work to get your cast to roll, if it does not roll you will not get the distance or accuracy needed in usual fly fishing endevers.

hope this helps

 

My body may be at the computer, but my mind is "gone fishin".

Thank you for that very informative reply I will diffinatly contact you when the time is almost here,once again thank you.
Oklahoma Life Member Since 2009 OKARNG 45th Inf.

I also live in Oklahoma (noble).  I agree with domkaaj, #5-6 is about right to start with.  It may be a little light for large bass but it can be done.  My goal for 2010 is a 5lb largemouth and a 3lb smallmoouth on my flyrod.  But if I target bass I use a #8.  Cabelas has a really nice combo outfit (rod, reel, line, leader) made by REDDINGTON for around $100 - $125.  Also OKUMA  makes a pretty good reel.  It clicks but it is fairly quiet and has a good drag system.  Hopes this helps. 

What part of OK are you in.  Where do you fish.  

as long as you know the limits of your rod, you would be able to catch almost anything on any weight rod,  I have already caught a 42 inch muskie on my 3 wt rod, but when it comes to big fish, it definitely stresses proper technique and quick reflexes,  If you think about it, the bigger the fish the more of a dance flyfishing becomes.  If you have ever watched ocean fishing on tv, you notice them bowing to fish as they streak towards the surface.  same thing applies to fresh water,  if you use your fly rod for any length of time, you will learn your spine feel of your rod, and what it can handle,  ( when to place pressure and when to bow to the fish).  This is a technique should be practiced even with small fish, ( if panfishing, get used to when a big gill takes a run, instead of horsing him around bow to him, literally, bend at the waste) keeping the rod anchored in your arm (in essence you are taking your rodtip from the normal fighting position to between 2 and 3 oclock, just enough to keep slight bend in rod but at that point the majority of the fight weight is transfered from the rod spine to the reel, ( at this point is when your reel should release start spinning)  if you hold your rod so that the drag is releasing higher in your arc with a light rod, you will stress the rod, you may be able to get away with it for a day, a week, or maybe even a few years, but eventually you will stress the graphite enough to break.  just remember the bow rule, if you bow at teh waist you put just enough pressure ont he fish that you stay "in contact" or keep the fish from throwing the hook due to slack line if the fish turns on you,  when you feel the runn slowing or stoping, all you need to do is lift your torso at the waste to maintain the connection while keeping the rod as unstressed as possible.  Practice this with small fish so when you need it, you do not even know you are doing it, it is just natural.  Good luck getting started, I know when I started, all you need is to catch a few fish and the action and fight gets you, then you just cannot put the dang rod down.  talk to you later.
My body may be at the computer, but my mind is "gone fishin".

Thanx guys I will look into the combos.

Oklahoma Life Member Since 2009 OKARNG 45th Inf.

I found a couple of combos one was an Okuma for $130 the other was white river from bass pro for $140 but it comes with a travel case it is 8'6 5wt and at least 4pcs not sure if thats a bad thing but it kinda turns me off,the okuma was 9' 6wt  and a 2pc if I remember right it felt good in my hand,does anyone know anything about the white river brand? I think I'm sold on the okuma but still not sure.

Oklahoma Life Member Since 2009 OKARNG 45th Inf.