Trolling Basics
Last Post 02 Feb 2012 05:13 PM by fishing-eagle. 84 Replies.
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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/29/2007 1:07:02 PM


quote:
Originally posted by wellsley:
quote:
ALL had a top of the line $$$$$ ballbearing snap swivel on them if you don't use a GOOD one with rotating flasher you will get a ton of line twist to the point that they may break off and your'll loose your flasher/fly rig costing you a lot of $$$$.

Razzer<!--graemlin::p--> Oh thanks now I got to buy more equipment. Razzer<!--graemlin::p--> Thanks ED thats why I be asking questions. So this rookie don't learn the hard way.
Since the meet Pete I trolled a few times. I didn't tangle the lines or get snagged on the bottom. A definate plus so I consider it a success even though I didn't catch any fish. You've give me some really good ideas on how to set up the boat and portable downrigger platform . Thanks Pete.


Frank, I use the oar locks for my mount. The hole in the 2x6 equals the hole thru the oar lock. I then match a stainless steel bolt to the hole, along with lock washers (SS). If you don't have oar locks then you would need to think it thru as to location for the locks on the top rim of the hull. Be sure everything is stainless steel as far as nuts, bolts and washers go...You might want to consider if just one person or two will be using this equipment (at the same time). How you will be sitting or facing when using this equipment. Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: wellsley on 10/29/2007 3:54:10 PM


I read an article that suggested putting a lead downrigger ball snubber between your cable and weight to extend cable life. So I looked in cabela's and sure enough they sell such a thing. Thats why I asked the question. I'm looking at a mannual downrigger and trying to figure out what other equipment I need to rig this to my 12' rowboat. Thank you for all your expertise.


quote:
Originally posted by Chris Stack:
Frank.. I'm not sure where you're talking about putting a snubber on the downrigger, but I'm sure it would really hamper the release by putting too much "give" in the system. The only place I use a snubber is behind a dipsy diver.. and that's just in case I have to help release it with an extra tug. It helps avoid pulling in just lips! I long, limber rod and a reel with a good drag thats properly set should work in most cases, even with the no-stretch lines and leaders. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 12:16:12 PM


Frank.. I run braided steel downrigger cables and have the same ones that were on them in 1986 when I got them. They seem to be lasting fine without snubbers Wink<!--graemlin:;)-->. As for going with manuals.. I'd consider putting the 150# braided line on for cables which would let you use lighter weights. Cranking them up by hand from any depth gets old pretty quick and a few pounds makes a big difference! I had one mounted on a 14' aluminum boat years ago.. just put a board across the port/stern corner and bolted it on! Worked great and caught fish as well as the electrics. Guess the fish can't tell the difference! Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/30/2007 12:37:08 PM


I hear ya Chris, about catchin' being the same. But I can see if your really into them, it would get old in a hurry...Might crank your a** off! This is what I have choosen to start with (manuals) and I will be using 8# balls.

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 2:41:31 PM


Pete.. I sounds like both you and Frank are just getting into downrigger fishing? If so.. you may also want to consider what rods and reels you'll need to go with those riggers. I've built up a rediculous collection (according to my wife), but some of my favorites are the least expensive! For Finger Lakes trolling, the big level-wind, star-drag reels that I use on Erie and Ontario are rather "overkill". I actually prefer to use spinning tackle there. The problem with most spinning reels comes when trying to lower the ball. If you open the bail it gets messy and you get severe line twist because the spool isn't revolving. You can loosen the drag, but then you need to re-adjust it. I use my old Quantum "bait-sensor" spinning reels here and the work perfectly. With dual-drags, I leave one set lightly for dropping the rigs.. and flip the switch to go to my primary drag. I don't think these reels are still available, but I know the Shimano makes a "bait-runner" and others make similar models that work the same. I have eight of these all mounted on 7' Ugly-Sticks and think they're perfect for Oneida or the Finger Lakes. Sorry if I'm babbeling, but I'm a bit bored.. resting up from this past weekend's heart catheterization. I'm also adding to my collection of heart stents! Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: turnip on 10/30/2007 2:59:44 PM


Chris, how about 8'3" Ugly Stick with an Okuma Magda Pro, MA 20DX? I use these for straightline trolling. I also have them wound with 30# super braid. It would be nice if I could use the same gear for both... Wink<!--graemlin:;)-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 10/30/2007 5:35:00 PM


Pete.. You obviously have some quality trolling gear already that will work just fine. I put many hours of trolling on Cayuga with my Daiwa 27SG's. I believe that the Okuma 20's are about the same size as the Daiwa 27's. I use them (also spooled with 30# braid) as well as the smaller 17's on Erie, but still like the lighter spinning gear for where I can get away with it. The flex of those long Ugly Sticks is ideal for trolling with braided line. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris)

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/3/2007 6:05:31 PM


I've got a couple of muskie rod and reels. But I'm looking at a line counter rod and reel combo. Probably settle on some thing from Cabela's.

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: Chris Stack on 11/4/2007 7:28:12 AM


Frank.. I've bought a lot of "stuff" from Cabelas and think they're a great outfit. Their insulated "guidewear" is one of the best investments I've made.. but their trolling reels don't cut it! I've tried their Depthmaster Golds as well as Bass Pro's Gold Cups and neither compare to the Daiwa Sealines! If money is no object, the Shimano Tekota is better yet.. but almost double the price. They'll all certainly work and catch fish, but the quality and dependability of the Daiwa's is hard to beat. Obviously.. this is just my opinion. Good Fishing, Sluggo (Chris) ps.. I do like the Cabelas rods.

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19 Nov 2007 10:57 AM

Originally posted by: FuzzyFishin on 11/4/2007 7:29:45 AM


wellsey, I picked up 3 gude series combos from gander mntn at about 80$. I also picked up okuma mag30 combos off e-bay. Those were 8'6" 4 cost me 150$. I do like the guideseries better.
I have found that snubbers work best with braided lines. Those vicous attacks from salmon and trout will break many braids.

Also one can count levelwinds for your depth.

I may have missed this, off the riggers I like to use long lengths when the ball is shallow.
Instead of riggers one could use pumphandles (1pnd ball) and also run a slider off the same line.

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/9/2007 3:08:15 PM


downrigger came yesterday but they forgot the free lead ball weight. I called them and its on the way. Fuzzy count levelwinds if I did that I'd only be able to go down 20'. (thats all the fingers and toes I have) Razzer<!--graemlin::p-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/10/2007 5:43:51 AM


I have 6 Mag 30's the drags are JUNK this could be why your braid is breaking on a strike for a salmon. Mine worked fine on the finger lakes but every year when I went to Lake Ontario one would fail. I plan on sending them to a super drag guy one time to see if he can fix them and if not they will be gone. I've been replacing them anyway. The new reel are lots of money ($179.00) a peace !!!! I got three of the Mag 30's for that price.
I like 7' rods IMHO I can move a large fish easier with that rod over my 8'6" ungly stick. Pete you had some BIG fish on with those rods and you still think your 8'3" will do a better job????

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/10/2007 5:47:15 AM


quote:
Originally posted by wellsley:
downrigger came yesterday but they forgot the free lead ball weight. I called them and its on the way. Fuzzy count levelwinds if I did that I'd only be able to go down 20'. (thats all the fingers and toes I have) Razzer<!--graemlin::p-->

Frank someone sells a small counter for 10 or $15 maybe less that you put on your rod and place the line it in , then let the line out. Pull the line out and fish. Some thing to look into cheaper than buying new reels or having a Dr. graff more fingers and toes on YA !!!! Eeker<!--graemlin::eek:-->... Razzer<!--graemlin::p-->.....SMF

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/11/2007 5:19:46 AM


Ed I bought me one of those line counters and they seem to work well. I thought I'd get one set up(rod and reel) to troll deep(on the downrigger). I plan to use it mostly on Cooperstown lake. For lakers and landlocks. I've been looking at the Okuma convector 30D. The Okuma catalina is twice the money but is it twice the reel? Now about rod length for trolling. I thought the longer the rod the better. Eeker<!--graemlin::eek:--> I've been misinformed. Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/11/2007 6:10:24 AM


No Frank it all a mind set to a point longer is better then it can be a pain to work with. 7 0r 7'6" are real nice to work with setting up and if you use the rod and the bend in it can handle big fish with out much trouble. This is one of those deals where what works best for me and my boat may not work for someone else out of there boat. Fighting a large fish on a 10' diver rod is a pain..........I ran and have 8'3" and 8'6" they work but for me the 7- to 7'6" work better. One draw back with the shorter rod will be hook set off the down rigger the rod releasing and pulling up the slack line longer rod more slack line pulled in and more and better hook-ups ???? Maybe but I love my 7'ers.......... Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: turnip on 11/11/2007 1:42:59 PM


Ed, I did not mean to say the 8'3" is better than your set up. That is what I use for straightline trolling. When play a big fish the long rod works well with a well set drag for playing the bigger fish. I was hoping I could use the 8'3" rods with my downrigger and not have to invest in another set of rods... Roll Eyes<!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: woo2 on 11/12/2007 5:03:51 AM


Hey Y'all,

Hey Pete iffin you do end up investing in some new rods, please take a look see at the ones I/m selling.

tom

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: erabbit456 on 11/12/2007 6:24:30 AM


quote:
Originally posted by turnip:
Ed, I did not mean to say the 8'3" is better than your set up. That is what I use for straightline trolling. When play a big fish the long rod works well with a well set drag for playing the bigger fish. I was hoping I could use the 8'3" rods with my downrigger and not have to invest in another set of rods... Roll Eyes<!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

Pete if someone did say that that's fine what works for them is what counts. Your 8'3" will do you OK on the down riggers and make sence on your flat line to give your more room between lines out the back of the boat. They would also work for a small dipsy and inline board also and with a larger reel could be used with lead core....... Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->.........mite not be the BEST rod for those but will work good enoungh....... Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: turnip on 11/12/2007 2:21:46 PM


quote:
Originally posted by wellsley:
Ed I bought me one of those line counters and they seem to work well. I thought I'd get one set up(rod and reel) to troll deep(on the downrigger). I plan to use it mostly on Cooperstown lake. For lakers and landlocks. I've been looking at the Okuma convector 30D. The Okuma catalina is twice the money but is it twice the reel? Now about rod length for trolling. I thought the longer the rod the better. Eeker<!--graemlin::eek:--> I've been misinformed. Big Grin<!--graemlin::D-->


Frank, you used my Ugly Sticks at Seneca for pike. Was there a problem with how that rod worked out? I never had a problem with Ed's set-up either. The only time I use snubbers is when I am trolling for trout (soft mouth), and only when I am using cowbells, flashers, etc. I agree with Ed that there must be a drag issues of some kind for 30# braid to snap like that...

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19 Nov 2007 10:58 AM

Originally posted by: wellsley on 11/12/2007 3:10:05 PM


I thought they both worked well. How can I complain I thought I caught my share of fish plus. Well at least until ED took the horseshoe back. Razzer<!--graemlin::p--> I think I'm going to go with the longer rod. Just because I have two rods one 6' and the other 6'6" both MH Muskie rods. If I'm not happy with the longer rod I'll go shorter.

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