Originally posted by: Tom & Laure Larson on 5/10/2005 5:40:24 AM

Holy Man Dave!!
Thanks for all the info. It must have taken you a week to compile all that stuff. I'm going to put it in a safe place for future reference. <!--graemlin::)-->

Mrs. Mossback

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/12/2005 6:56:41 AM

<!--graemlin::)--> <!--graemlin:;)--> <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Tackle Box Mfgr's

Flambeau

Plano Molding

SKB Sports Cases

Shimano Gear

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/12/2005 7:36:02 AM

quote:

Originally posted by BIGmike1:
I have a free website (no ads or popups either) that explains how to tie crawler harnesses, how to fish Lower Lake Huron/St. Clair River with them, and even has videos!
You can also see how we clean fish with an electric knife.
http://dns.advnet.net/mkg/index.htm
Good luck out there all this new year,
Mike

Originally posted by: BigGuy on 5/12/2005 2:11:08 PM

Great Boat for Sale just click here...

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/17/2005 11:42:23 AM

Tips for Cleaning Cork Handles by ouchitabassangler and sscasteel

..................................And.................................

Rod Cleaning Tips by sscasteel

<!--graemlin::cool:--> Thanks guys <!--graemlin:;)-->

quote:

Originally posted by ouachitabassangler:
I rub cork handles down with light olive oil. Sanding lightly, as the article mentioned, is a good way to clean dirty cork, but the oil restores that original finish and prevents cracking.

Some of my rods have fancy bevelled cork handles which can't be easily replaced. I've ordered replacement cork, though, removing the original. I slit it along a straight line on the top backbone where neither palm or fingers touch, peel it off, sand off irregularities, then slit the new cork, pry it over the handle with super glue applied to the handle first. A razor blade is used to trim neatly. The new cork usually overlaps at the cut seam, and that's good. Just slice through both cork edges together so when pressed down the edges meet perfectly, no line showing, especially after sanding and being treated with olive oil.

Jim

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
The only thing I have ever seen that worked on dried out cork [believe it or not] is Mothers Chrome Polish from any Auto parts store or section.

This guy who repaired rods, would take a piece of Scrotch Brite pad [slightly used] and dip it in the polish and then move up and down and around the cork, polishing it wherever it was dirty, wipe off everything, and then after that he would re-apply in a thin layer over all the cork handle, more Mothers with a new piece of Scotch Brite pad. After that he would let it set for up to 24 hrs in a very little traveled area and let the stuff soak in. After a day, he would then use a clean rag to wipe off anything left on the cork and again use a slightly used Scotch Brite pad to touch up any small dirty spots missed before. I have seen Dirty & dry cork come out looking very nice, Not SUPPER SHINY, but very clean and decent to the touch again.

I have a plastic tub of Mothers and Scotch Brite pads on my repair desk just for dried out / dirty cork and use it occasionaly.

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
I tried something different today on cork handles = GOJO Hand cleaner.

I had a somewhat dirty cork rod handle, and was going to try a little Steel wool on it, when my eye caught the GoJO Hand cleaner tub.

Can't hurt to try, I thought. After all it does clean hands very well, and kind of moisturize's too. I get a small slightly used, Scotch brite pad out and a tooth brush. Dip the tooth brush in the gojo and brush it on the cork. I let it set about [2] minutes, then slowly started rubbing the cork with the Scotch brite pad.

The cork would inded clean up, <!--graemlin::cool:--> and wiping it off with a clean white rag let me see what was brought out of the cork, and how dirty the cork actually was.

I believe I will start using this stuff over eveything else. Cork gets cleaned and the GoJo sinks in kind of like a moisturizer into the Cork. A good White rag to wipe it off, and much better loking cork. <!--graemlin::D-->

I will try it on a real dried out handle the next time I get one, and see if will help it any.

Haven't tried it on an Eva foam handle yet, but I bet GoJO could make that stuff look mighty clean again, if a tile grout brush with somewhat stiff bristles, was used to work it in, and bring out the dirt and grime. <!--graemlin:;)-->

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecrusher:
My mistake, it isn't FlexCoat, it's U-40 that makes the cork sealer, sorry for the confusion. Cabela's sells it, among others.

quote:

Originally posted by Badger:
I clean mine with water,liquid hand soap and a small bristle brush. Wet down the cork, rub in some soap and scrub w/brush. Rinse off, dry, and it's like new.
Works so good my wife accused me of buying a couple new rods. I had to clean hers just to prove her wrong. Laughed my butt off over that.

quote:

okuma500 Posted August 10, 2005 03:34 PM
Read recently where if you use Bleach-White, thats right, Bleach-White, the stuff for cars. Just spray it on and wipe it off

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/18/2005 7:21:54 AM

A couple of months ago we had an informative discussion about crankbaits in the Bass Forum. This is a condensation of what was said by various members. <!--graemlin::cool:-->

fish-wva Posted February 03, 2005 05:22 AM

I read about people fishing deep crankbaits but when i try usind a deep runner i cant even seem to hit bottom at 10ft. i know the bait i am using is rated for 10 to 15ftPosts:

davesett2000 Posted February 03, 2005 09:01 AM

Is the lure REALLY rated for 10-15 ft "ON THE CAST"? (No offense meant)
Most lures will say something like "6-8 ft casting, 10-15 ft trolling"....so make SURE that it's rated for "10-15 ft casting" depth...

Next...how heavy of line are you using? Thick MONO especially will decrease the diving depth...fluorocarbon is good because it is denser...and sinks better...

Also...check the gear ratio of your reel....if it's over say, 5.3 to 1, you may be cranking it too fast...there is a common misperception that the faster you crank, the deeper it should go...

In reality, each lure has an optimum speed in relationship to depth...too fast can actually make it rise a bit...

And last but not least...there is always a possibility that the lure is defective...or out of tune...

This is all I can think of at the moment...
But I will guarantee that someone else will be along shortly and have other possibilities that I have missed...


WadeK Posted February 03, 2005 02:18 PM
Dave, the only thing I can think of to add worthwhile is that most crankbaits are rated using 10# test Mono.


fishermen23340 Posted February 03, 2005 02:26 PM
well done davesett2000 and good question fish-wva. I personally can't think of anything more to add except if you want the bait to run deeper try wraping lead core wire around the top of the center hook, the weight putty under the bill of the bait or suspend dots.

skguides Posted February 04, 2005 09:11 PM
The line diameter makes a difference in how deep any lure rins. There are some articles on this here http://www.skguideservice.com/cgi-bin/artman/exec/search.cgiCrankbaits

trainboy Posted February 05, 2005 05:32 AM
but wouldn't it also depend on how long the split shot area is and if it is straight or bent, because if it is sloping downward the lure will dive shallow and vice-versaPosts: 14 | Location: Ottawa, ON | Registered: September 01, 2004

wme96 Posted February 05, 2005 10:16 AM
Only thing I ca think to add is distance of the cast. It needs long cast in order for the bait to get to deep dive postion.

davesett2000 Posted February 07, 2005 07:35 AM
Thanks Bill...this is an Excellent point...

ANd thanks skguides for the link

Generally, a longer rod will give you longer casts...

In our most recent issue of the club mag Steve Pennaz talked about the fact that a # 5 Down Deep Rattlin' Fat Rap would go down 11 ft. with 14 lb mono...

He also said that you had to crank the bait 40 ft. in distance BEFORE the bait got to that depth...

Steven Holt and Mark Romanack published a book about the dive curves of MANY crankbaits...it's called Precision Casting, and here's a link to their website... http://www.precisionangling.com/pc.html

I have seen several articles about this book and what they did to test the baits...impressive to say the least...

The manufacturers may tell you that baits will travel down to certain depths, but these guys actually went to a swimming pool and tested several...even with different lb tests of line...it is VERY thorough...

A simpler (but time consuming) way would be to make a list of all the cranks you have, and between the Cabela's, Bass Pro catalogs and mfg's web sites, you could write down the basic depth range for each...just keep in mind that they usually use 10 lb mono as a reference line...

You could also take a waterproof marker and write that range on the bottom of each lure...

As a rule, a line lighter than 10 lb would allow the bait to dive a bit deeper....thicker mono will have the opposite effect...

Fluorocarbon will also make it dive deeper as the line is denser than mono, and therefore sinks easier...

I don't know about braids, but I'm sure MANY people here could answer that question for us...(that was MY cast for info)

And last but not least, there is always the 'ol "Kneel and Reel", purportedly first used by Paul Elias when he won his first Bassmaster's Classic (1982)...

I remember doing this same thing when I was a kid (early 1970's), thinking that it would make the bait run deeper, but I had no proof of it (not many swimming pools in rural Minnesota <!--graemlin::eek:--> )

Now we'll wait for some info from our BB info specialists on the effect of braided lines and dive curves...


Ray White Posted February 07, 2005 11:52 AM
Keeping the diving crank baits down at a given depth can be a chore, as the line is being retrieved in it become shorter cause in the bait to track upward. If you're looking to probe the deeper depths and want the bait to stay at that depth at longer time. I would use a lipless crankbait, countdown, or sinking crankbait one that does not float. As these baits sink, you can count the bait down, they will sink about a foot a second to the depth that you want to track at, especially rattle traps. I used the diving crank baits with a long bill as a weedless crankbait around wood in shallow water to water depth of about six to 8 feet water. More so than to use them to probe deep water. I also use deep diving crankbait on suspended fish in the 10 to 15 foot range, even if the crankbait does not quite reach the 15 foot mark. They have produced a reaction strike, causing a bass to come up for it.

Robert Horn Posted February 07, 2005 01:50 PM
Great ideas for crankbait fishing, Ray! Especially using deep divers in shallower heavy cover, I really think what you are doing there is what most people who are successful with crankbaits actually do. That is what I've been noticing in the Tournament Trail section of Bassmaster magazine. They have been taking that lure that runs down to about 15 feet, and throwing it into submerged cover in 6, 8, to 10 feet of water and pulling it down to where it either knocks into wood, or almost snags in grass and pulling it off the wood, or out of the grass and getting that reaction strike from the bass. Thanks for reinforcing those lessons, Rob in Paris, Tx.Posts:

ouachitabassangler Posted February 07, 2005 01:55 PM
Braids usually have a much smaller diameter, so you can keep a high test line and still probably not exceed the diameter of a 10# mono. The thinner the line, the deeper the dive.

Some guys are right now trying lead core line out in the deep of the lake, going after really big stripers. That stuff sinks like a rock and takes whatever is attached with it.

Another way to make a lure dive deeper is to drill a hole in the belly, insert BBs or stuff some lead in the body, then temporarily test it in a tub. When satisfied its heavier but the action is still right, seal the hole with wood or plastic putty. Mix the hole drill shavings with the putty or glue in the top layer to restore a matching color. You might have to touch it up with a little paint, but I don't think the fish notice either way. If they don't mind suspend dots, they shouldn't shy away from a clumsy patch job.

davesett2000 Posted February 18, 2005 04:08 PM
I may be HALF crazy...

But it wouldn't surprise me that the 2 biggest problems people have with crankbaits is...

1. Not picking a lure that runs at the correct depth for the situation.

2. Using a "plain" retrieve...

When you're reeling it in, give it little pulls...short hard jerks...long pulls....long hard jerks...with your rod...

Make that bait "come to life"...like it's trying to actually FLEE a predator...(the ones you're trying to catch)

Ray White Posted February 18, 2005 05:53 PM
davestt2000, No you're not half crazy, the fact of the matter is, you could not be any closer to truth. Random movement is the key. If one watches baitfish when no predators are around, baitfish move in a very mechanical motion. But when predator fish approach, the baitfish starts moving radically through the water going every which way. When you see baitfish close to the surface swimming in this fashion, this is a signal to you that predator fish are just below them. It is the radical movements of a crankbait that trigger strikes just as baitfish change their flight patterns. Just stay in tune with the movements of your crankbait, that you are deploying. So when a strike comes on, you can duplicate it.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 22, 2005 06:10 PM
Ditto all the above. It really shouldn't be necessary to always get a crankbait all the way down to target bass. They are watching what goes on above them. If the lure is presented right they will go up for it unless in a nasty mood. In that case a crankbait probably is a poor choice anyway. If they are suspending and not willing to come up, hanging a dancing spoon in their face is about the best you can do, or drop-shot them.

I've clipped a 1/2 oz bell weight onto the eye of a front or middle treble hook on a crankbait and found bottom when I didn't intend to so efficiently, 60 feet down. The lure stayed there. You can use adhesive lead strips to do the same thing. Filling lures with BBs works if you insist on getting it deep. Trolling with a deep diving planer board will do it. Or make a heavily weighted leader sort of Carolina style.

Most of the lures don't reach the depths claimed unless cast a hundred yards to get the best angle, and they are tested on ten pound sinking mono, so if you are using line thicker than used in the depth test, and/or line that tends to float, it will run more shallow. It's a little misleading, but the depths are more accurate for long-line trolling, and assuming the lure is perfectly tuned, running straight with no variance up or down, side to side. The lures ought to be checked for tuning out of the box anyway, but if you forget to do that, the claimed depth is impossible if out of tune. If out of tune bend the line eye in the direction you want it to change to. Use a pair of pliers like Rapala makes with slots in the outer edge for gripping and fine bending. It also has a split ring bit on the end of the needle nose, split shot crimper, and side cutter. Adjusting to make it dive more or climb more is probably easier changing tail hook size or tying an extra large knot to hold the line in a better position at the eye.

One of the most effective presentations other than mentioned above is to pause a crankbait frequently after a short run, using a lure that suspends well, or sinks very slowly when paused. If they float to the surface too quick they require a chase upwards a bass might not appreciate. They can rise and fall with almost no effort, but slowly, so if they spot a lure rising about their speed, they will follow longer. When you pause then restart, that's the moment most likely to bring on a strike. The other event for a strike is on the fall after a pause. Whatever you do with it imitate a dying shad, which darts, wriggles, spirals toward the deep helplessly. When injured most can only go down.

davesett2000 Posted February 24, 2005 07:44 AM
I found this article on the Internet...

Long....but interesting... http://www.e-bassangler.com/page-19.html

The Rod Tosser Posted February 24, 2005 12:55 PM
A few things to remember resistence and distance you need to make a long cast before the lure reaches max deapth and the more resistence on the line the less depth it will go. You might be realing or trolling to fast for the lure to reach the max deapth . the line diameter might be to thick . usaly long rods and thin line are the norm. You could also add a sinker a few feat up the line to get more depth. There is a good book out there with the average depths that some lures run. but i dont remeber the name of it.

davesett2000 posted February 24, 2005 6:17 PM
It's called Precision Casting, and here's a link to the website... http://www.precisionangling.com/pc.html

Originally posted by: sscasteel on 5/28/2005 9:42:06 PM

I seen an article either here in Texas or on the computer news in the last 4-5 days, that DUE TO THE THREAT OF TERRIORIST MAYBE CROSSING THE BOUNDARY WATERS, the US, and maybe Canadian Border patrol were going to start making Boundary water users have several forms of ID on them. <!--graemlin::eek:-->

Drivers license, fishing license, Birth certificate, A passport, maybe even an insurance card or proof of where person being checked, worked at. <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->

All were being considered, but had not gone into enforcement as of yet.

May want to keep up on top of this, as it could mean a pleasant fishing or just Nature sight seeing trip, gets ruined by not having correct paperwork. <!--graemlin::(-->

Originally posted by: papa_d on 5/28/2005 11:54:30 PM

NOT IN EFFECT BY THE FED'S; BUT THE NEWLY FORMED "HOME DEFENCE SECURITY GUARD" IS SUPPOSED TO BE DOING THIS. JUST STARTED IN LAST WEEK OR SO. THIS GROUP IS A OFF-SHOOT OF THE US/MEXICO GROUP THAT HAS BEEN SO SUCCESSFUL. THATS ABOUT ALL I HEARD HERE IN MICHIGAN.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/31/2005 12:20:41 PM

Here's an article I ran into about Superlines on http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/c...nes2.shtml

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 5/31/2005 12:43:32 PM

Tips for Dressing Up Tackle Boxes by sscasteel <!--graemlin::cool:--> Thanks Steven!

quote:

Originally posted by sscasteel:
If you have the older tackle boxes with plastic tray, UMCO, MY BUDDY, MY PAL, and other, the trays can be damaged by worm burns, be cracked, and other things. <!--graemlin::eek:--> Doesn't seem to be any source [surprisingly] to buy them from in USA either. <!--graemlin::confused:-->

Have heard Sewing Supply stores carry Standard size replacement trays, but haven't found any yet.

I carefully remove every tray [empty] and facing the sun or a bright light, look at the tray bottom. If you can see cracks, spots, or holes with the light, then I take duct tape and cover them on the bottom side. Once the tray is snapped back in place no one can see the duct tape] <!--graemlin::rolleyes:-->
The tops holder sections in the trays, I take rolled cork and cut close accurate pieces the length and width of each section. I then use scissors to carefully trim the cork to a perfect fit in the hole bottom. I use either a light amount of glue or a squeeze tube of caulking on the tray bottom before easing the cork down to it and into position. You can let the stuff dry as is, or place weight of some kind on top of each piece of glued in cork. {SINKERS} = best, then used but clean, spark plugs, Etc. Edges can be fixed also using the cork. Let the whole thing dry for up to 24-48 hrs, for best results. <!--graemlin:;)-->

The other type of tackle boxes today w/plastic sections, edges, and pull drawers, can be fixed or looks improved by this method also. If the plastic has worm burns in it, use an Exacto knife, pocket knife, small scraper, to level the plastic as flat as possible. Cut the cork the entire length and width of the section and glue or caulk in.

You can only lose about 1/64th of an inch in depth from this cork so it has very little effect in the depth of the section and objects going back in it after fixing.

Hooks can snag the cork occasionally, but if postioned carefully won't do hardly any harm to it.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/3/2005 3:14:18 PM

Website about California Rivers http://www.friendsoftheriver.org <!--graemlin::cool:-->

To find info on rivers in YOUR state, simply type in rivers + xxxxxx (name of your state) into any online search engine... <!--graemlin::eek:--> <!--graemlin::D-->

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 6/8/2005 9:40:08 AM

cool links

Originally posted by: catfishbrad on 6/8/2005 11:41:17 AM

http://www.walleyehunter.com

http://www.landbigfish.com

http://www.quantumfishing.com

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com

http://www.yumbaits.com

http://www.lurenet.com

http://www.fishinghotspots.com

http://www.crappieusa.com

http://www.freshwater-fishing.org

http://www.flyfisherman.com

http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com

http://www.berkley-fishing.com

http://www.flydepot.com

http://www.total-fishing.com

http://www.fish.shimano.com

http://www.anglersmart.com (walmart for angler)

http://www.ffo-tackle.com

http://www.boohyahbaits.con

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/9/2005 9:12:57 AM

Fish Finder / GPS manufacturers

http://www.find-fish.com/ (Sells and supports ALL major brands)

http://www.humminbird.com/home.asp?ID=2 (main website)
http://www.humminbird.com/generic2.asp?ID=412 (Troubleshooting)

http://www.lowrance.com/

http://www.garmin.com/
http://www.garmin.com/support/ (Tech Support)

http://www.bottomlinefishfinders.com/

http://www.eaglegps.com/
http://www.eaglegps.com/Support/default.htm (Tech Support)

http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/
http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/default.asp?site=1§ion=3 (Tech Support)

http://www.si-tex.com/

Originally posted by: fishermen23340 on 6/10/2005 1:33:37 AM

Found this site in bass times. It shows where to buy a book with the true depth lures run not what they claim.
http://www.precisionangling.com

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/10/2005 10:01:47 AM

Spinnerbait Tips
This is a consolidation of 3 different discussions that we had over the last few months concerning a WIDE variety of info about spinnerbaits <!--graemlin::cool:--> Some info may be repeated between the 3, but overall it covers the subject quite well.
And a big thanks to EVERYONE who contributed! Enjoy! <!--graemlin:;)-->

bassmaster89 Posted June 02, 2005 02:20 PM
I like to fish fast and don't have to much patience when it comes to plastics so i mainly stick to crankbaits and spinnerbaits.I usually fish a few clear water lakes and ponds and was wondering if the blades might put off to much flash. Also when it is really clear could i use colored blades and still be productive. Thanks

davesett2000
Posted June 02, 2005 02:47 PM
Any and all of the above...really
The fish dictate what will work best on any given day...
And although the old adage of "silver on sunny days and gold on cloudy days" probably has some truth to it, you just never really know what MOOD the fish are in...
I personally would try some baits with "scale-looking" type blades...similar to these...
I'm sure a few of the other guys will be along shortly to add their expertise

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 02, 2005 03:20 PM
Like David wrote, the fish mood will determine the best combination. Sometimess in ultra clear water a lot of flash will put the fish off, then an hour later they will only hit high flash. I've started with gold blades on cloudy days, got no bites until I went with flat black blades. I try to start with willow blades if cutting across weeds, but sometimes I have to sacrifice "weedless" for what gets bites, going to Colorado blades. One day in clear water a large spinnerbait with quadra blades stops producing, but a compact one half its size with one blade but weighing the same is exactly the right one. You begin to get some interest in the Chosen One but the bass short strike or just slap it, so a search for the right trailer begins after ruling out presentation speed. I give each combo a 5 minute trial. That's it. I retie every 5 minutes trying something else unless I can switch blades, which takes about the same time to do as retying.

No matter what water, what condition it is in, the bass have to eat sometime. When they are not feeding (70% of the time) they are subject to reaction bites. Experiment to get one or the other.

Anglersradio
Posted June 03, 2005 11:55 AM
Year Round Spinnerbait Tactics
By Steve vonBrandt

Spinnerbaits are not just a tool for the spring and fall. Spinnerbaits can be deadly, if the right ones are fished in a variety of situations weather it be the East Coast or the West. The trick is to be able to distinguish which is the right one for the right situation? Spinnerbaits can fished in so many different ways, all of which, produce BIG BASS from north to south, east to west. They can be fished through the water column top to bottom. They are really a versatile bait if you know the little tricks it takes to fish them effectively. They can be fished many ways by varying the retrieve, weight of the bait, blade size, the trailer and colors. You have a bait here that can work a water column and catch fish from one to twenty-five feet, and because it is so versatile, you can fish it fast, slow, and in all seasons of the year.
The first time I discovered this, I was amazed at how many fish I had must have missed in my youth, by not knowing how to fish a spinnerbait here in the Northeast.

When it was October here in Delaware, I went hunting until the end of Quail season. Soon after 1976, I read my first issue of Basssmaster magazine, and saw that people were using this bait year round and catching bass. Soon after, in late December in Delaware, I caught my first bass on a "Stan Sloan" single nickel colorado blade,(with a purple skirt, with rattles on the arm,) by letting it flutter into a sunken tree, in ten foot deep, thirty-six degree water. I soon felt that sluggish pull on the line, "like a pile of leaves or grass", not until then, did I realize that I could catch bass year round on the right lures, with the right presentation, sound and color. It was well over six pounds, and was a different fight when she got close to the boat and saw the trolling motor. Since that time I have fished all over the United States, from New York to California, and found the right spinnerbait and the right technique produces big bass from all sorts of waters all year long. They key is to keep it in the strike zone, and most lures are made so that you can work them as slowly as you want to, while still keeping them in the zone.

"DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES"

I like to use the spinnerbait as a search tool, and kind of a depth finder, and bottom contour device also. What I do is check out the structure of the lake by bumping objects, and increasing my chance for a reaction strike right then. The spinnerbait will make a different sound bumping off different objects such as stumps, rocks, sand, and pea gravel.I also vary the speed often, and even shake the rod if necessary, trying to give the bass a different look, which is important in highly pressured waters. I work buzzbaits in a different manner also, which I believe is what accounts for some real lunkers that I might have otherwise missed. There are times when a spinnerbait is the most effective tool to use. When fishing the bait in heavy cover such as pads, I employ a technique that I now know is called fluttering by some anglers. Basically what you do is to cast the spinnerbait out into the pads, and by moving your rod tip, and other parts of your body positioning, you maneuver the bait through the pads, and when it comes to an opening, stop it, and let it flutter down. Many strikes comes as a lure sinks.You should make a lot of casts to the areas where you really believe the bass are, or have seen them, as they can be irritated into striking if the bait is presented in enough variations and positions. Slow rolling can be extremely effective in deep water as it designed to imitate a crawfish on the bottom, or another type of bass forage. The trick to it is rolling it down the side of a sloping bank, a rock bar, a hump, or any underwater structure, and then slowly pumping it back to the boat. We employ the almost identical technique with a lipless crankbait with great success. There are also better types of spinnerbaits for different types of cover. C shaped baits tend to work better through heavy pads and grass, while a V shaped bait gets hung up more easily.

Riprap is another good area to slow roll spinnnerbaits. There is often debris mixed in with the rocks, and many times large bass are waiting in ambush for prey to come along, and are primes areas to slow-roll spinnerbaits. The spinnerbaits should be slow rolled over the rocks and such, and extra action imparted to the bait is not really necessary. It should crawl over the bottom, and sometimes I give it a little twitch. All you have to do is raise the rod a slightly, lightly shake it, and then continue slowrolling it back to the boat.

"DEEP METHODS"

When the bass are really deep I employ a technique I call deep pulling; its like a yo-yo method but a little different. I let the bait flutter all the way down, and then let it sit, then I pull it hard and way up near the surface and do it again. I use real heavy baits with Colorado blades for this, usually in a chartreuse, or a chartreuse and white skirt when I fish in places that have dying shad in the winter, but anywhere else, I use black, or black/purple combinations. I always add a little Megastrike to the baits.

"TACKLE"

I like to use a 6 to 6 1/2 foot rod for this but sometimes I like to use a 7 foot rod, on different occasions. Many times situations come up when a 7 foot rod suits the situation better that a 6 or 6 1/2 foot rod for distance and control. Most of my rods I use for this technique are in a medium heavy action. I really like a Fiberglass rod for these baits, but there are many new rods that are very good for spinnerbaits and crankbaits, made by G.Loomis, St.Croix, Kistler,and Shimano. Sometimes on the smaller baits I use a spinning rod with Stren Super Braid,or Power Pro, but the rest of the time I use a baitcasting rod with a Shimano Chronarch, with fourteen to twenty pound P-Line.

WHAT COLORS FOR WHAT BAIT

When I choose a color for a spinnerbait, a lot of factors come in to play. The first thing I do is pick a shad pattern, or whatever is the dominate species in the lake. I usually double up the skirts, to give them more bulk. I use blue and white, black and white, and chartreuse and white. Sometimes I use red, depending on the location. All of these colors give a good range of visibility under water.

In muddy water, I have always used the same colors, black and blue and red. The same goes for the nighttime. I like to use the forage in the lake if I can,such as rainbow trout or shad, and to make it appear injured to trigger that genetic response.

I like to use big spinnerbaits in the spring, when I'm in big fish waters, some right here in Delaware or Maryland, or others such as Florida, Arizona, Texas, and Mexico. When fishing strictly for big bass with spinnerbaits I add on a double or triple skirt for bulk and lift, and use really big blades. Terminator makes some big blades that I really like on our spinnerbaits. This year here in Delaware, we landed three bass in one day on big spinnerbaits, that went seven and eight pounds. Sometimes we even break off the tails of worms for trailers, and many times in the spring, I have caught some huge bass from ten inches of muddy water with a big spinnerbait with a trailer. We have had a great response from bass in the Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania areas, using a double golden shiner skirt. The bluegill and shad patterns top the list overall though. Sometimes reversing the skirts on the baits presents a different profile, and will also trigger hard to get strikes. The spinnerbait isn't just a bait for beginners, although it is a great bait to break in a novice or child to the sport of bass fishing. But in the hands of an expert, it is a versatile year round bait, that can catch "HUGE" bass.

davesett2000
Posted June 08, 2005 01:21 PM
There's a good article in this month's Outdoor Life about spinnerbaits...here's a link to it on the website...
http://www.outdoorlife.com/outdoor/fishing/article/0,19912,387504,00.html

The actual article in the mag has great photos though, which there aren't all of them in the web version
Also...here's a couple of links I found today...
http://www.strikeking.com

http://www.terminatorlures.com (You can NOW buy packs of Oklahoma style blades )

davesett2000
Posted June 09, 2005 07:12 AM
Yet another clear water option is to "tone down" the metal blades with some dark paint (Black or dark blue/green)...
You could put a couple of stripes or bars with a small brush, which would eliminate some of the flash...but you could also use white, which might represent the belly of a baitfish...
For that matter, try an all-white blade...still quite visible but not as flashy
A couple of years ago I was in one of those "Dollar" - stores, and they had Black and dark blue fingernail polish...needless to say I picked up some

Blade Colors ETC...

Tyler Posted February 13, 2005 05:20 PM
Could some members please help me with understanding spinner bait blades when to use willow leaf and when to use colorado. when to use gold and when to use silver thanks

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 14, 2005 09:03 AM
Tyler, the blades are the parts that a bass will see first. If they match the forage size the bass is expecting, it will more likely take interest. The skirt and hook body help commit an attacking bass into biting the thicker, larger meal offering once he's close enough. Skirt color and other details can either warm a bass up or turn it off in the middle of an attack, resulting in short strikes. I stick with forage colors or white/chartreuse in the skirts when the water is stained to clear.

Willow blades are long and narrow, so don't offer a lot of water resistance. They do vibrate at a higher frequency. They allow a spinnerbait to fall faster than the other blades. If you want the lure to drop quickly, not giving fish a long time to study the lure, go with them. They're great for reaction strikes.

On the opposite end of blade choice are the Colorado blades. Being wider they displace more water and provide a thumping noise compared to a chatter in the willow. They provide more lift for the bait, allowing it to sink slowly, a good choice in helicoptering down the side of a tree snag. They allow bass a maximum amount of time to study the bait. That's useful when the bass are inactive, caught mostly by aggravating them. They have time to decide whether to allow its presence or not. That's the exact oposite of a reaction strike. Only instinct is involved in a reaction strike, no analysis involved.

An Indiana blade has some characteristics of both extremes, its effects a compromise of both.

Blade size has to do with matching forage size. If shad are running 2 inches, use a 2 inch long front blade. The second blade can be smaller. Too large in the rear mount means more hook fouling. Study the bait for where the blades can go before using it.
Learn to mix and match. This week I've used a 5/8 oz white spinnerbait with a touch of chartreuse in the skirt, a #3 silver willow, and a #2 gold Colorado, a shad colored swim bait on the main hook, and a trailer towing a Storm swim minnow. I position my boat over a major point (in shallow water) that has a sudden dropoff into main lake water near a major tributary leading to prime spawning areas.
The spinnerbait is then cast into the deep water, allowed to touch bottom, then pumped back up slowly.

davesett2000
Posted February 14, 2005 12:21 PM
Good points Jim...
As a rule, an all Colorado bait will bulge alot easier...
And an all willow will run deeper with an average retrieve...
AS Jim said....the wider Colo's will be louder under water...the willows quieter...
One more thing...willows are less weed prone than Colo's or Indiana's....
Some guys even file down the edge (sharpen it) to "cut" weeds...

Robert Horn Posted February 17, 2005 07:07 AM
When do you use a single-bladed spinnerbait? Rob in Paris, Tx.

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 17, 2005 09:46 AM
As for me, I switch to the single bladed rig when a more subtle presentation is needed. Less flash, just a little flicker. Sometimes it takes imitating a school of minnows with multiple blades, other times just presenting a quick little meal.

silversalmon
Posted February 17, 2005 10:52 AM
I ususally use the single blade when there is a load of underwater debris. The big fellows hide under there and look for a "minnow" type to swim by for lunch

davesett2000
Posted February 17, 2005 12:11 PM
Those are good ideas Jim and silver...
Another option is to use a "short arm" spinnerbait...where the blade doesn't hang so far back of the hook...
The smaller blades or a single blade will also allow the bait to sink faster...
Another suttle option is to use a black (painted or black nickel) blade...
When I lived in Minn years ago I could catch largemouths with a black / white or medium green / white Daredevle...
It wouldn't surprise me a bit if these colors would work on spinnerbaits in gin-clear water...
or in the shallows early AM or late PM...

ouachitabassangler
Posted February 17, 2005 03:53 PM
In fact, night fishing spinnerbaits just about requires a black blade if you want the bass to see it sillouetted against a faintly lit night sky. A light colored blade wouldn't contrast enough. In any case they can home in on the vibration until they see the skirt, also black or dark blue. The key is they only see what's above them or directly in front. They're looking up as well as horizontally, whereas a bottom feeder looks mostly down, the eyes oriented for that. Their lateral lines help find bait before they see it with eyes, so I'll usually go with a Colorado black blade. It sinks slower too, keeping the bait shallow where bass feed at night. Try an experiment at night, holding something black against the stars or clouds, then something light colored. Since the sky is already faintly lit you won't see the light object as well.

davesett2000
Posted February 18, 2005 03:57 PM
Yep... just make sure that there aren't any human-type lights around....then you can really tell the difference...
Myself and others have even used 2 Colorados on night baits....ALOT of thump...
Or try a short arm with a #6 Colo....

fishermen23340 Posted February 19, 2005 02:44 AM
I use a small colorado blade #2 or #3 in the spring, slow rolled, because the hatch is still small and the fish are not real active yet. Now come summer I'll use a willow blade #4 or larger colorado blades #5 or #6 or a combo colarado #3 / willow #5 these add flash and thump. In fall any blades work well because the bass are chasing everything, to fatten up for there long winter. Winter I go back to the large colorado blades with a helicopter retrieve because I like the slow fall on the drop in cold water. Puts the bait in there face longer. As for when I use silver or brass/gold blades I was taught to use silver when the sun is out and brass or gold on overcast days. Another way is to drop the baits over the side and let them sink the blade you can see the best as it falls deep flashing is your best choice, if you see it, the fish will see it even better. In muddy or stained water I use silver colorado blades only, the thump and flash on these blades gives you the best chance of a fish seeing / hearing your bait.

davesett2000
Posted March 09, 2005 12:24 PM
Spinnerbait / trolling blade places...

http://www.staminainc.com

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com

http://www.barlowstackle.com

http://www.terminatorlures.com (Oklahoma blades)

Tyler Posted March 10, 2005 09:12 AM
davesett 2000

Thanks for the websites. And thank you to everyone who contributed to my post. I gained alot of valuable information. Thank you very much
Posts: 165 | Location: New York State | Registered: December 14, 2004

lebbie54 Posted March 10, 2005 09:29 AM
Thanks for the black blade tip in low light. I have been looking for a combo that will work under this condition for some time now. Thank you, I think you soleved my problem big time. Hope to land some lunkers now. and of course get some nice grip and grins to go with them.
Posts: 158 | Location: Roscoe, IL | Registered: February 01, 2005

Anglersradio
Posted March 24, 2005 10:46 AM
Blades are very important. I am doing an online seminar soon on blades that you can view if you like and in the meantime I have several articles you can read. http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

Too Many misses?

Line_snapper
Posted June 04, 2005 11:19 PM
I got way too many misses today on my spinner bait. i need to find a way to put a trailer hook on a 1/8 oz. uncle buck micro spin. (not the actual thing but is basicly a genaric ver looks just the same acept smooth blade) but i dont know how to put a trailer hook on it. scince its a treble hok should i like put one smalll single hook on each hook or just one small hook on ONE of the hooks?? any input will be appreciated

papa_d
Posted June 05, 2005 02:55 AM
YOU COULD TRY IT WITHON HOOK; ANYMORE WOULD PROBANLY SCARE OFF THE FISH...

SuwanneePaul
Posted June 05, 2005 04:51 AM
Try running a thin wire through the eye of the trailer hook take several wraps around the wire and then attach it so it is centered on the treble hook and wrap the ends around the shank of the treble. I've done this with various size jigs and lures. Give it a try. Good luck.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 05, 2005 05:14 AM
Lots of misses on a spinnerbait isn't usually a hook problem. More likely it's presentation style, color, size, blade choice, or some other variable you need to change until they bite.

I always replace the stock hooks with red ones, including trebles. Bass are more likely to target a red hook, which increases hookups.

I don't recommend ataching a trailer hook to one part of a treble. The relatively thin wire won't hold a load well, the treble designed to directly hook a fish with at least one, usually two of the three points. Using one point would result in straightened hook points. You're much better of attaching the trailer hook to the spinnerbait body where the treble is connected, letting a leader trail behind the original hook. The leader ought o be tied to its own split ring to prevent abrasion from the main hook rubbing against a knot. Use a palomar knot to attach the rear hook. I'd use slightly lighter line for the trailer leader so if the more likely hangup happens, all you lose is the trailer.

clyde
Posted June 05, 2005 07:34 AM
Your skirt on the bait may be to long if you can trim iy off a little that might help , then again it might just be little nippers that are hitting.You usually don't put trailers on trebles.

Line_snapper
Posted June 05, 2005 11:50 AM
clyde: i could see the flashes of their sides and they were at leat 10 in bass.

ouachitabassangler: it isnt a normal spinner bait you cant really change anything on it. (it costs 97 cents) and i dont think it has split rings but i will check when mom gets home cause my stuff is in her car.

SuwanneePaul: ouachitabassangler is right it would probly break with the fish pulling on it.

Papa_D: yeah ur probly right.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 05, 2005 05:26 PM
If the spinnerbait doesn't have a split ring holding the hook on, I'd try to add one. You're much better off with one or two high quality spinnerbaits that can be modified than using cheap lures. While a good spinnerbait will eat a $5 bill up, replacement blades can be bought for 15 cents apiece and more, skirts can be made from Hobby Lobby bulk materials, the rubber bands from a local medical supply selling orthodontic bands, and hooks are cheap in bulk off the internet. I've been fishing since the 1950's and have yet to own more than 6 spinnerbaits at a time, but all are high quality. I have an entire box dedicated to spinnerbait/buzzbait parts, however, giving me the equivalent of hundreds of spinnerbait styles. I prefer old spinnerbaits that squeek over new ones that need breaking in, so tend to keep the old ones in service until they get hung up on bottom. When I lose one, I buy one.

Line_snapper
Posted June 05, 2005 10:07 PM
okay....

well the only spinnerbait tHAT i have caughten fish on that is not an inline is a strike king rocket shad and works pretty well but i also dont really know a whole lot about spinnerbait science and stuff plus i am not really the kind of guy that like changes skirts and stuff on shore cause when i fish i only got like one-3 hrs and i try to fish every minutie of it but if it doesnt take too long i am willing to try it. and scince wallly-world doesnt have the best selection of fishing stuff i will have to order it out of my many fishing catalogs. probly cabellas or bass pro shops or i could find a site that is about bilding lures and sell spinnerbait parts and order it off of there... TO BE CONTINUED (LoL)

SuwanneePaul
Posted June 06, 2005 06:06 AM
I wasn't talking about only one point/bard wrap the wire around the shank of all three and bring the trailer to the center of the three barbs. That way you are using the whole treble hook for strength. Oh well maybe your Dad can show you.

clyde
Posted June 06, 2005 11:26 AM
Snapper check out Kevin VanDams web site he talks alot about spinners and how they work.If you don't really know about spinners some of what we're trying to tell you won't make since but he has a demo that will help and these folks know more about spinners than me , now if you want to pig and jig or jerk baits I'm your man.

ouachitabassangler
Posted June 06, 2005 02:17 PM
Snapper, I can change 2-3 blades and a skirt in about a minute, losing most time locating the parts I want to change to. The blades just snap off and back on, and the skirts are just pushed on over the hook. You just need to buy a few ball bearing clips, an assortment of blades (chrome, gold, black to start with), make up a few skirts in advance. I've made skirts using the colored threads out of electric wire covering way back when I couldn't up and buy it when I wanted it. Cheerleader pom poms have great material, bought at Hobby Lobby. They have packages of all colors of tinsel and stuff that can make a killer skirt. I keep a little of different materials stuffed in little plastic prescription pill bottles.

You can use simple snap swivels to attach blades in a hurry. Ball bearing snap swivels are better. High quality ball bearing swivels are even better. Instead of using split rings as supplied on spinnerbaits, I replace them with butt rings so a simple needlenose pliar will work rather than mess with a split ring pliars, saving time. You can get all that from http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Content.aspx?src=home.htm for one place.

All that saves having to need 40 different spinnerbaits taking up a lot of space and adding weight, and saves a lot of money in the long run. You'll break a spinnerbait once in a while, but can reconfigure one many times before wearing it out.

catfishbrad
Posted June 06, 2005 03:07 PM
try a LEVERAGE spinnerbait they have trailer hooks built in

davesett2000
Posted June 06, 2005 03:13 PM
Jann's has a nice "variety pack" of skirts

For even more blades and skirts try
http://www.barlowstackle.com MUCHO # of skirts

http://www.staminainc.com (these guys have a decent variety pac of blades )

If you get a chance, check out what a tandem inline muskie spinner looks like...they have one treble up front and another as the trailer...
Like SuwanneePaul said, you can attach a second treble with a wire...
There ARE some that have a single Siwash as the trailer....but you want to make sure you attach the wire to where the treble is mounted...
One OTHER thing you can do is to take a needlenose pliars and bend the hooks on the treble OUT just a hair (be CAREFUL if you do this)...a little bit can make a LOT of difference


Line_snapper
Posted June 06, 2005 06:37 PM
okay guys my mom went to meijer and i grabbed a BOO YAH pond majic 3/16 oz white and it is a tandem and pretty much all i know is that colorado blades are for vibration and wilow are for flash and indiana is like a hybrid

davesett2000
Posted June 07, 2005 06:58 AM
Another thing about blades is that as a rule, if you have 3 baits the same weight, one with each of the 3 major types of blades, the Colorado blade one will run shallowest and the willow one will run the deepest, with the Indiana one in the middle.

Also...the willow will be the MOST weedless of the 3.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/14/2005 9:31:38 AM

Tying Knots

Animated knot courtesy of canepole

http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php

And other sites...

http://www.tnoutdoorsmen.com/knots.htm

http://www.fish4fun.com/knots.htm

http://www.how-to-fish.com/fishing_knots.htm

http://www.activeangler.com/articles/how-to/articles/knots/index.asp

http://www.fishingcairns.com.au/page6-1.html

http://www.troutlet.com/fishing_knots/index.htm

http://www.sea-fishing.org/modules.php?name=Fishing_Knots

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/15/2005 9:44:27 AM

Advice on Birdsnests from the Archived Topic in the Bass Forum <!--graemlin::cool:-->

Thanks to ALL who contributed to this thread <!--graemlin:;)-->

svelain Posted February 19, 2005 08:29 PM
I bought my first baitcaster and no matter what, I always seem to birdsnest the line. I spend more time trying to fix my line than fishing. Any tips or tricks?

kaos Posted February 19, 2005 09:58 PM
Hey there the way that I learned is to use a heavier lure and keep my thumb gently against the spool to control the spin....My dad told me that they didn’t have brakes back then (he’s old lol ) and that’s how they did it all the time...also make sure you stop the spool when your lure hits the water...this helps a lot also...good luck bud

Yellow Bear Posted February 19, 2005 10:16 PM
Adjust your reel to the weight of your lure.
When you tye a bait on, raise your rod tip and hold the spool with your thumb. Now press the button. Now raise your thumb off of the spool. If the bait stays put, adjust the reel so that the weight of the bait pulls the line out. Then tighten the reel just enough to stop the fall.

P. W. Posted February 20, 2005 02:54 PM
I'm new to baitcasters as well, but in my initial investigation was warned that what reel you buy makes a huge difference. I was strongly encouraged by many to begin with a good one even though it was expensive. I bought a Curado. I've been practicing and have only birdsnested it twice. The first time it took me 45 minutes to fix it and about 50' of line. The second time, about 20 minutes later after about 15 minutes but no line loss.

Here's what I've learned in practicing and receiving instructions from other boards I frequent.

1) The birds nest occurs when you fail to stop the spool from spinning when the lure hits the water or ground if you are practicing.

2) Setting the brakes properly controls how fast the line comes of the spool. The Curado has 6 breaks. I was told to set them in an on off pattern with three on and three off alternating.

3) The cast control knob needs to be set so that the line barely drops with the lure on it.

4) Use at least a 3/8 weight / lure when practicing. The higher the weight and # test of the line the easier it is to get the hang of it.

Hope this helps. I'm really enjoying my Curado and have yet to birds nest it again.

The Rod Tosser Posted February 20, 2005 07:03 PM
a few tips adjust the spool spin screw so that the lure barely drops on its own weight you will nead to adjust this with each new lure .

turn the magnetic brake set‘em to 100%

and lastly you could make a decent cast strip out a little more line then put a strip of electric tape across e the line and your birds nests wont go any deeper then the electric tape line.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 22, 2005 04:22 AM
All the above advice will cure most of your problems.

I would add never fill the spool more than within about 1/8 inch of level-full. High memory line makes a backlash more likely. I know it's tempting to go ahead and use that last little bit of line left on the refill spool, but you're better off leaving it there. Use it for leader material.

Cast with a swing instead of a snap at first.

Bring the Variable Brake System down from 100% fully On after you are successful at 100% (start pushing alternate pins in away from center of spool). Some Curado owners remove them altogether by pulling the pins all the way out past the retaining clip.

With a Curado, if the backlash is happening mostly at the beginning of the cast, the problem is best controlled with the push-pull pin Variable Braking system accessed under the side turnkey cover. Be careful opening it, it comes completely off and could be dropped in the lake.

If the backlash is happening at the end of the cast, the spool tension knob is still too loose, so turn it clockwise a little more.

Today I spooled up two new rod/reel rigs and went fishing. Both reels are Curado, one rod a 7 1/2 foot flippin stick, the other a 7 foot cranking rod. I set the variable brake on 100% (pins all the way extended away from center), set the spool tension so the 3/8 oz Shad Rap took the slightest bump to begin a slow fall with spool released (thumb button pushed in). With thumb on spool I made a long sweeping gentle cast with the crankin rod, released thumb, did not re-apply thumb. The bait landed loudly on the water about 55 yards away, and the spool stopped dead right then, with no overrun. I then tried a really hard cast for 100 yards and got a small overrun (birdsnest). I got the overrun close to the boat. Since I already had maximum variable braking on there was no remedy for a hard cast with such a light bait. I tied on a 3/4 jig and got 100 yards easily (on 8 pound line), no overrun, no thumbing. Lure weight simply must fall within the ranges intended for both rod and reel if I am to expect efficient, consistent casting.

The flippin stick performed in the same manner, though distance was much shorter using 17 pound mono. I usually do better with 30-40 # braid, but cold clear water is not the time to use it. I'm using Berkley Vanish Transition and love it.

Just messing around experimenting I caught and released three foot long bass.

eiturner01 Posted February 24, 2005 06:03 AM
wow, 100 yards, that’s a heck of a cast

my advice for learning, stay off the water, concentrate on casting, not catching fish, if you're on the water, you're thinking fish, not practice, just like flycasting. 2 - 3/8 to 1/2 oz or more, depending on the rating of you're equipment. 3 - crank the spool tension all the way down and start there, only release it a little at a time until you become comfortable with it. Take a gentle cast, not snaps or trying to throw the bait across the ocean at this point. One step and then the next gets you where you are going.

ouachitabassangler Posted February 24, 2005 02:04 PM
On our deer lease we have a clean pond where there is a floating tire, the rims filled with styrofoam. One is at 25 yds, 50, 75, and 100. They are there to practice, practice, practice. I tie on a bell weight of different size and aim for the tires. Occasionally we have a contest to see who's best. Some of the teenagers beat us every time. 100 yards isn't a big deal with the right equipment and line, and a heavy enough lure that'll glide well. Casting downwind I often let off enough line to see the end of the spool. I don't usually want to cast that far, just can. My point was that if the reel is set right you should be able to cast long distance with no birdsnest, no help from thumb. The reel spool ought to just stop when the lure hits the water.

davesett2000 Posted February 25, 2005 11:39 AM
You got me started Josh...

100 YARDS is 300 feet... the length of a FOOTBALL field...

Sorry Jim...I have a hard time believing that someone can hit a tire at 300 FEET with any kind of consistency...

I DO know that long casts are possible...but it would be interesting to see a 3/4 oz jig travel 300 FEET...????

And for that matter, the world record is 817 feet...(with an 8 ounce lead weight)...

But I would bet SERIOUS money that the average person casting a (1/2 to 1 oz) LURE (not a sinker) would be darn LUCKY to get it out 150 FEET (50 yards)...(This is the distance advertised for the Rapala DT series)...

Also...I would think that having something like your "course" would be better at 25, 50 75 and 100 FEET intervals....MUCH more common casting distances....and a LOT more in need of accuracy...

ouachitabassangler Posted February 26, 2005 03:38 AM
I don't know how I kept missing that. 100 FEET consistently. Sorry about the confusion. I'm also mixing up casting lures in water and bell weights out in the water, and didn't read back to see what was disputed. Baitcasting a jig at 100 yards would be impossible.

The tires, though, are set in YARDS. There's one teenager that has hit it and we had to let him have the case of beer, but he had to drink it there. He's the first and only winner of that case of beer. I've never been able to hit it but have come within about 30 feet. Down there we snag catfish below a lock on the Arkansas River. We use 12 foot salt water rigs with 6 oz lead and a 3 inch wide treble hook. They don't bite it- it snags them. We can only get within 100 yards (300 feet) of the dam due to a regulation and constant reminders from the dam operator's blow horn. I've seen people cast and snag the dam. I've almost hit it. That's where the fish are, at the foot of the dam. I don't know why the record is less than that, as it's regularly broken there.

The tire at 100 yards is of course not a reasonable target, but the first two are. On the ground we have coffee cans buried like a golf cup, for accuracy practice. The tires are there for fun. The cans are mostly there for the kids to compete for tackle prizes. That keeps them busy practicing for an event.

Maybe I need rest.

Pferox69 Posted February 26, 2005 04:48 AM
Well, I am from the old thumb-brake days and thanks to carpal tunnel I had to retire my bait casters. I must admit that I cried as they were carried away by a youngin' that I gave em to. But I did keep one for old times sake, and use it once in a while to see if I could still do it.

The only suggestion I have is to PRACTICE PRACTICE, and then PRACTICE.

I had lots of different reel types when I got my first Garcia bait caster. But after that I became a one rod and reel person for years. And I can say I got pretty good at it.

Oh yea I guess thats the another suggestion, for the next 20 or so years don't use anything else but Bait Casters, repetition makes perfection.

For salt fishin down here I still use a garcia reel on a 14 foot rod with 4 to 6 ounces of weight and 100 plus yards is a piece of cake.

Oh yea another suggestion I have is to use a premium line like Berkley Big Game, I'd stay in the 15 to 20 pound range. Just cause it is easier to untangle, and it doesn't cut into the spool as bad. In the beginning, the object is to cast bait not catch fish. (sorry I stole that line but it is a good one, worth stealin) I would stay away from the braided stuff until you really get the hang of it if nuthin else cause of the cost of lost line while cuttin out birds nests.

I sure do miss my bait casters. I has taken me a long time to get those spinnin reels to do what I could with a bait caster but its gettin there.

Is it really true that they make reels that you don't need to use your thumb anymore? Wow what will technology think of next, but will they cast my little 1/8 oz snook jigs? Now that is the question.

Robert Horn Posted February 26, 2005 07:55 AM
It is possible to set the new baitcast reels so that you do not have to thumb them prior to your lure hitting the water. When going for accuracy it is better to thumb the spool to drop the lure in softly exactly where you wish it to land. Ten years ago I was throwing 1/32 oz. bullet weights on a Texas rigged worm, keep in mind you have to add a 1/0 or 2/0 hook and a worm, so the rig weight is probably closer to 1/16 oz. or a tad more. Today, on the newer models I often throw a 1/8 oz. tungsten bullet weight on a Texas rigged soft plastic. One mistake I try to avoid on the newer baitcasters is not to try making an overhand cast when I have the reel freed-up for pitch casting. There are those of you out there who can run in free spool mode at all times and still cast overhand, pitch cast, or flip cast with no serious over-runs or backlashed knots, but I am not to that level yet, LOL! Rob in Paris, Tx.

davesett2000 Posted February 28, 2005 12:39 PM
Jim...thanks for clearing that up...

I've never heard of the "can" thing, but whatever works...

I too have one of those surf rigs, so I can relate to that...

Pferox69 and Robert....thanks for the "experiences"

ouachitabassangler Posted March 01, 2005 05:55 PM
Robert, I'm glad you pointed that out. I don't recommend not thumbing either, but the reel ought to be set that well. Without thumb control the lure will almost always land loudly and spook finicky bass. You ought not hardly hear a lure hit the surface. If it slaps the water you need a lot of practice with a lower trajectory and slowing the fall with thumb control. Sometimes a little whip sideways or backwards jerk will help moderate the way a lure hits. I don't think any two anglers would develop the same technique. It just takes some body language to refine the entry momentum.

Dave, that's why we set up the 2 pound plastic coffee cans like golf course holes. They are full of water. The idea is to practice accuracy as well as lure entry so as to create minimal splash. When I first tried it I would plop at least a cup of water out on every cast. Now the displacement is more like a few tablespoons at most using a bell weight. It requires an underhand cast, keeping the weight just a few feet above water. The rod tip almost hits ground on release, then the weight arcs up a few feet then back down. You thump a slow stop to drop the weight in the can, with a slight jerk back to kill momentum. I went out in the yard to go through this so I could describe it better, but can't without watching myself. Some anglers just lay a can on its side and try to skip a lure into it without spinning it- a direct hit to the can bottom.

Some of you have all winter to work on that.

Jim in Florida, there is a $500 electronic reel that would cast that 1/8 oz lure. I'd suggest a spinning reel for such a light lure. Bait casters work best starting around 1/2 oz, but as the quality increases the lighter the lure can be to a point. The line will probably always be the main factor that prevents the perfect baitcaster that can cast any weight. Maybe someday they will come out with a reel that generates a real spider web line with zero resistance that matches the load being cast. Until then I will carry both baitcaster and spinning rig.

I understand pain in casting. That drove me to begin casting underhanded for most casts, under 50 feet, and a sideways cast for longer casts. I'll alternate long casts using wrist, forearm, and stationary elbow. My problem has been shoulder joints for many years. I find the load on them almost negligible as long as I don't use vertical movements.

Dave, I thought casting 300 feet to the dam to be quite a feat, but compared to the world record that's pitiful. Those snagging distances depend on line, and of course selection of rod & reel quality. A lighter 40 pound line would do it with 4-6 oz sinker, but the line needed to boat or land 100# plus Arkansas River cats requires at least 80-100#. The river current adds a lot of fight since most snags get them in the side. That's what I used down there with a 12 foot saltwater rod & reel, able only to cast maybe 250 with any consistency. Due to shoulder problems I no longer snag anyway.

WALLEE Posted March 07, 2005 07:07 PM
Sounds, like... All the brakes (little plastic inserts) are off (pushed in) gently pop them out CAREFULLY..Adjust your lures and use the recommend line dia. for your reel.

getdanet1 Posted March 10, 2005 05:06 PM
Hi Guys,
I learned this tip from Musky Hall of Famer Larry Ramsell.
He's a tough old pro who wants to see you put fish in the boat and is not afraid to show his disappointment if you are screwing up.

You have to figure that you are paying your tuition to go out with a pro. You should be paying attention and learning something. Of course it helps a great deal when you put some of those green nasty critters in the net and get a show off picture too.

As you are making your cast, turn your hand so that the reel handle is facing up as the line is playing out. The line on your spool will flow a lot smoother. Then get your rod transferred over to your other hand before the lure touches down so you are ready to start your retrieve immediately.
Always keep a close eye on your spool tension adjustment as all the forward casts will eventually loosen your setting and allow your spool to spin faster than you expect it to.

I have no experience with lighter type baitcasters as I always use spinning gear in those situations.

Try spoolin' up with some Cortland braid. I use the black spot 50 -100 lb or my Musky rigs.
They are coming out with line for spinning and smaller baitcasters like bass gear. It feeds out very well and in the case of a very infrequent bird nest, it's a lot easier to restore than mono line.

ouachitabassangler Posted March 16, 2005 07:42 PM

I've been paying closer attention to my own habits and see there are lots of little things about casting that go unnoticed. One of them is that I hold my thumb above the spool as the line goes out, not quite touching it. I think I got into that wanting to feel any wild loop happening so I could clamp down on a cast to limit a backlash. I think that works pretty good. Since starting that my cast swing is a lot more controlled, smoother, more deliberate with follow through like a golfer does. My follow through swing has a little pull back at the end of it just before lure touchdown. I had my partner watch several times trying to describe this. It appears the rod tip finishes a forward movement, then arcs back upon putting thumb pressure on, resulting in a pop of the lure back to me a little, enough to break its momentum. While my partner's lure consistently hits water maybe 60 mph with a huge splash, mine just drops in quietly. We'll tape it someday and try to nail that down better, as I'm sure that sounds a little confusing. I just can't quite see it from my perspective out there.

Another cause of backlash I've been noticing is how so many people jerk a cast out without a full deliberate swing. We were sitting in the boats at noon the other day, talking about three tournaments here last weekend when a school of bass broke, the first break we've seen this year. One guy in the other boat just lobbed his lure underhanded and backwards accurately, but ruined the cast with a huge tangle. My partner repeated the same error. They reminded me to keep my cool and cast carefully. I caught 4 LMBs in the time it took them to get back to fishing. Lesson learned among 4 fishermen. Don't hurry a baitcaster. Treat it like it'll break if you snap it. Eventually you will learn to snap-cast successfully, but don't try it early on. The others also now see why I keep 6 rod/reel outfits tied with lures ready to switch, able to leave a bass or two flopping at my feet with baits still hooked while I toss another offering. When they go down from breaking I take time to clear their mouths and put em away. The other boat left when that happened, but we stayed. The bass went down but didn't leave. We caught our limits and then some, averaging 2.7 pounds each.

kaos Posted April 17, 2005 11:14 PM
I have had good luck with what Basspro says about puttin your thumb on the side of the drum and not the line

papa_d Posted April 18, 2005 03:46 AM
I FOUND THAT THE VERY EASIEST WAY TO CONTROL THE NESTING PROBLEM IS NOT TO FEED THE BIRDS. SO; I QUIT USING ALL BAITCASTERS! I NOW ONLY USE AUTO CAST AND SPINNING, "NO MORE BIRDNEST'S".

ouachitabassangler Posted April 18, 2005 04:19 AM
Hey, papa_d, when they come out with that little remote helicopter that drops the lure for ya I'll let ya know.

Ohio93 Posted April 18, 2005 02:34 PM
I’ve heard they thought about even adding a casting competition in the next Summer Olympics!! Finally a competition I could tune in to watch

papa_d Posted April 18, 2005 03:17 PM
HEY THERE JIM; YOU KNOW THEY GOT THE BOAT WITH THE ALL MIGHTY SEEING EYE NOW. MAYBE EYE CAN HITCH A RIDE THERE...

PA John Posted April 18, 2005 04:18 PM
For all of you that want to cast far, here is the item you need. At then Harrisburg Sportsman Show was a dealer selling a cannon that shot lures out to 300yards. They were trying to sell them to surf fisherman.
Maybe NAFC will have it for field testing soon.

bucketface Posted May 08, 2005 04:33 PM
Even the pros get an overrun once in a while. I remember Jimmie Huston say he knew he was in trouble that day he had an overrun on the toilet paper holder before he left the hotel.

ouachitabassangler Posted May 08, 2005 04:54 PM
The next birdsnest you get try this. Place your thumb over the mess and apply some pressure, Reel in more line while dragging thumb, two or three revolutions. Then slowly peel the line off. Most of the kinks pop out in the order they laid down. When you get to the last few (original kinks), do it again.

Keep in mind the problem is almost always a spool that's traveling too freely at the time the lure is slowing down before touchdown. That allows excess line to pack up under new line coming off the spool still spinning faster than needed. Tighten it up a little. Use plenty of weight for the line, matching line and bait to rod and reel specs.

Robert Horn Posted May 19, 2005 07:29 PM
1) Set the spool tension control knob properly, where the rod is held at a 45 degree angle and the lure slowly drops and stops when it contacts the water.
2) Roll it back and pick it out, roll it back and pick it out. Depress the spool release, roll the spool back with your thumb and use your thumb and forefinger to pick the knots out.
3) It takes mucho patience and downright dogged determination, otherwise you are left with the last ditch solution, i. e. cutting the line off the spool and re-spooling with more line.

bassinfool Posted May 22, 2005 05:08 AM
First you need a quality reel. I originally tried a couple of the cheaper reels and had nothing but problems. In fact, I quit using baitcasters all together! Then I decided to try again, and this time I went with a better real (around $100 each) and had substantially more success. Rob is right when he says you need to set up the reel correctly and you need to practice, practice, practice.

On most baitcasters there are two ways to control the spool. There is a nob next to the handle and usually some type of magnectic backlash contol. Use Robs setting instructions for setting the spool tension and set the backlash control on the high side. Now go into your back yard and start casting. As soon as the lure/weight hits the grass, get your thumb on the spool to stop it from spinning. When you start seeing some success, back off the anti-backlash control to a lower number. Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.

kibtzz Posted May 23, 2005 05:01 PM
An old trick, but, I always have succes with it setting up a baitcaster. Put a bait that you may use regularly on the outfit; angle up about 45degrees and then play with your tension/magnet settings until the bait just barely falls when you twitch the rod. then use your thumb as mentioned above. Patience and godd eyes are a virtue while you learn this technique

Line_snapper Posted May 23, 2005 07:08 PM
well i have never even touched a bait caster they sound like alot of problems so i hink im just gunna stick with spinning reels

andrew smith Posted May 23, 2005 07:14 PM
Trust me, if you're big into bass fishing with artificial lures, get a baitcaster. If you get a good quality one(by quality I don't mean a $300 dollar baitcaster, I mean one from a good manufacturer, like Abu Garcia, Quantum, Shimano, Bass Pro Shops, etc etc.) Do NOT, I mean NOT go cheapo, as you will most likely get nothing but problems.

kibtzz Posted May 24, 2005 12:09 PM
A good baitcaster is a lot like a woman, got to get to know her, first. . There are times that you'll be glad you did. I prefer a good spinning outfit; however, there are situations that I'm glad I have baitcasters even when you run into a "professional overrun"

ouachitabassangler Posted May 24, 2005 06:54 PM
Backlashes will happen from of too light of a lure letting the spool spin faster than line going out. An interruption in the cast can cause it. A smooth arm action with follow-through will prevent most backlashes. Casting into the wind will do it big time. A jerky cast will do it.

Backlashes are a series of simple loops laying over the spool, put on simply, so if you're digging line out you'll just make knots. Put some thumb tension on the spool and wind in some line, then release the spool and gently pull line out. when you get to a hard Spot, do that again. Do that several times before going to the next step. When working on a tough tangle, remember how easily it layed down, so don't get too complicated with line contortions. I use the end of a plastic comb to gently raise and loosen a layer of line without moving line sideways, then put the thumb pressure on, wind it again, then peel it off. Work small lengths at a time, not geting in a hurry to strip line.

From my days of using old level winders with no antireverse I got in the habit of riding the spool with my thumb on the cast. Whwn I release the thumb bar my thumb remains close to the spool. It costs a little distance if you touch the spinning spool, but the instant I feel anything wrong under the thumb, I clamp down and abort the cast to minimize tangles.

bigfish05 Posted May 25, 2005 01:48 PM
i do not know how good of a combo i have but here it is: reel= shimano B-100Mag
rod=shimano graphite C B1-GC1552 length 5'6" med action.
a fishing buddy gave this to me since he knows i am a diehard saltwater angler. is this a good rod and reel

andrew smith Posted May 25, 2005 04:09 PM
I'm not familiar with the reel or rod, but Shimano makes good products, so most likely it is.

fishnman Posted May 25, 2005 06:55 PM
can anyone give me some pointers on how to cast a baitcaster overhand. everytime i try all i get i cast that goes very short and splshes down right in front of me. i got side arm casting down but trying it overhand is giving me troubles ive tried releasing earlyier but maybe not early enough. its a round baitcaster (the ones used for muskie fishing)
thanks!!

getdanet1 Posted May 25, 2005 07:16 PM
Hey Fishinman, Here's a few things you can try.
1. Make sure your bait to spool tension is correct.
That means that your tension knob should be set to when you hold your rod out in front of you and release the bail the bait will fall at a easy steady pace. If it doesn't, either tighten or loosen the set knob 'till you get it right.
This needs to be done with each different bait you are going to use.

2. When you go to cast overhand, imagine that there is a big clock next to you on your right side, if right handed. If you held your rod straight up, it would be at twelve O'clock.
As you start your cast your rod should be at the one or two o'clock posistion back over your shoulder.

As your arm comes forward, your release should be at the Eleven o'clock posistion. You can use thumb pressure to control your line output or stop the spool completely in the case you may snag or tree cast.

3. As you release, use your wrist and turn your rod so that the reel spool is facing you sideways. This will allow your line to spool out a lot easier and go farther. Once you master that, you can work on moving your rod to the other hand and be ready to start your retrieve as soon as your lure hits the water.

Check your tension adjustment often. All those forward casts tend to loosen it. That will get you a nice birdsnest. Good luck. Hope this info helps ya. If it is confusing, let me know and I will try and draw and scan a pic for you.

Robert Horn Posted May 26, 2005 08:33 AM
Shimano reels are fine reels, and they make nice rods too. I started out with a Bantam Shimano reel, ouch many years ago man it hurts to think about it, and a 5 1/2 foot rod out in the yard learning how to cast it and pick the backlashes out. What you have should be great to get you started, later if you want to you can go to longer baitcasting rods. If you do decide to get a longer rod someday, be sure to watch all around you when practicing or fishing from the bank so that you have enough room around you that you will not hit anything with your rod when you cast. Rob in Paris, Tx.

Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/17/2005 10:28:31 AM

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Originally posted by: davesett2000 on 6/24/2005 1:47:46 PM

Spawning Basics

Spawning activities begin to take place depending on water temperatures for ALL species of fish. For example, both largemouth and smallmouth begin at approx. 60 degrees, and may continue into the low '70's. Given limited spawning areas, the fish will "take turns" on the beds. SOME may not spawn at all.

Type of water will have an effect on how fast the temperature will warm up. For example, as a rule, the north side of a lake will warm up faster than most other areas. Also, shallow lakes will warm up faster than deep ones. And even further, a round-shaped lake will warm faster that a long narrow one. Spring-fed lakes will also warm more slowly than seepage lakes or reservoirs (depending on the type of river feeding the resv.)

Wind and wave action can also play a factor in this process.

So while the bass in a shallow, round muck-bottomed seepage lake can be DONE spawning in April, they may not have even start in a deep, long, narrow spring-fed lake until June.

Some fish, like walleye, trout and salmon, will migrate up a river to spawn. Some of the trout varieties spawn in the fall instead of spring.

Below is a chart I made from a couple of websites, showing spawning teperature ranges. I would almost bet that if you went to 10 different websites, you'll get 10 different ranges, so don't be surprised if you see different ones posted on the 'Net.