Yes, a very good book to make.  This is what I will be using for a guide...That, and hopfully some good advise from experienced members!  Ya know Trev, I used this guide to help me decide what I needed to order.  Very informative and an easy read!

Geat topic Turnip!

I have things to contribute to this...but I will wait for a few days and see how it progresses before I attempt to post the items

INLINE SPINNERS

Perhaps before we jump into the good stuff we should discuss some of the tools that will be needed.  The following is a list of a few basic tools you will need for making these spinners.  Pleas feel free to add any that I don’t mention!

Needle / round nose pliers: Used for forming the ends of the spinner.

Wire cutters: For cutting wire as needed or required.

Split ring pliers (optional): Used to open split rings that you may decide to use to attach the treble or bait hook to the spinner.

Wire forming tool (optional): Used for bending angles for spinner baits and larger gauge wire for inline spinners.

Vice grips: For holding your spinner as you form the end loops.

TACKLE COMPONETS

Tackle components come in many different sizes, styles, shapes and weights.  Let’s take a look at some of the more popular components for inline spinners and explain their many uses.

Stainless Steel Wire

There are several types of wire and many different diameters.  Each has its own use in lure making.  For the purpose of inline spinners, I will speak of single strand wire only.  The single strand wire is used for virtually all spinners built around a wire shaft.  Many fisher folks fishing for pike or musky make their wire leaders out of single strand wire.  The advantage is the single strand is smaller in diameter than the equal strength nylon coated stranded wire.

Stainless steel shafts can be purchased cut to the desired length, with the ends already formed or you can save money by cutting lengths and forming your own ends from bulk wire.  I think I should note here, it is recommended that you use spring tempered pre-straightened stainless wire when making your own wire shafts.  It is stronger and straighter than non-tempered pre-straightened wire.  A straight wire is important because if the shaft is not straight you will get spinner wobble.  If the shaft is not spring tempered your bends may fail when playing a fish…There are three types of wire shafts that I will speak of concerning inline spinners:

Straight Shaft – no ends but cut to length or in bulk spools

Closed Loop – Use the closed loop when you want to attach the hook to a spinner with a split ring.  This permits the changing of hooks without having to take the spinner apart.  Most large spinners use a closed loop shaft.

Open Loop – Use the open loop when you build most of your smaller spinners.  It can be held closed by the spinner body or a coil spring if making a bait hook spinner.

Here is an example of different wire diameters and popular uses for them:

0.024”              spinners with blade sizes 0 – 4

0.028”              spinners with blade sizes 3 – 6

0.030”              spinners with blade sizes 3 – 6

0.035”              spinners with blade sizes 5 – 8, spinner baits

0.040”              musky, pike spinners, large bass spinners, spinner baits, buzz baits

0.050”              musky, pike spinners, large bass spinners, spinner baits, buzz baits

I should note here that some folks suggest using larger gauge wire for our toothy friends.  It is not uncommon to find inline spinners with 0.052” and larger diameter wire.  This is all I have to say about wire.  I am learning right along with you, so if you have something of value to add, please do so!  My next post will be about spinner blades.

Spinner Blades

Spinner blades are some what confusing for me.  Each blade has a distinctive angle of rotation, vibration, feel, flash and popular use.  A blades angle of rotation is determined by the broadness of the blade.  As an example, the Colorado blade is one of the most broad of the blades on the market and has the largest angle of rotation (50*) as well as having a great amount of water resistance.  On the other hand, the Willowleaf blade is one of the most narrow blades with a small angle of rotation (25*) and has little water resistance.

The basic rule of thumb is the wider the blade the slower the spin, the narrower the blade the faster the spin.  Use a wide blade for a slow and shallow retrieve and use a narrow blade for a fast and deep retrieve.  Blade size is also an important consideration when making a spinner.  A blade which is too large or small will affect the spinner’s performance and balance, it will not perform well.

Blade Finishes

There are several types of finishes you can expect to find at just about any supply store or online:

Polished & Lacquered

Copper

Plated

Painted

Laser Fleck

Blade Surfaces

The blade surface may be smooth, hammered, fluted or ribbed.  These are often a matter of preference to each individual angler, but there is a difference between the surfaces.

Smooth Blades – These are generally the most popular blade.  The surface is smooth and therefore creates the least amount of water drag.

Hammered Blades – These blades have many small dimples stamped into the blade.  These dimples affect the blade in two ways.  First, the dimples create some additional water resistance which creates a small amount of additional vibration.  Secondly, they reflect light (flash) differently, reflecting light in many directions at once.

Fluted & Ribbed Blades – These blade affect the way light is reflected (flash) and the way the water slides over the blade.  The light is reflected in several directions at once.  Many anglers will exclusively use fluted blades for big bass, musky and pike.

My next post will be blade types and their uses.  So like I said earlier, I am learning right along with you!  If you have something constructive to add please speak up!  If you have a question, please speak up!  Eventually we will take all this info and start to actually build some spinners…

 Good Afternoon Yall, This is a great topic Pete. I have been tinkering with inlines a while now but havent really got the proper wire yet.  I,ll thank the rod tosser for the bike spoke tip and the link you posted. I was on their site a while back and didnt notice the book you posted but I saved this part:

http://www.luremaking.com/howto/fre...pinner.htm

Blade Types & Their Uses

Colorado Blade 

The Colorado blade is one of the most popular blades.  Designed by John T. Hilderbrant in 1899, it has been catching fish for almost 100 years!  Due to the Colorado blades being almost round in shape it has a large amount of water resistance and a rotation angle around the spinner shaft at about 50 degrees.  Use the Colorado blade for slow retrieve situations and light currents.

Indiana Blade

The Indiana blade is slightly narrower than the Colorado blade and has a rotation angle of about 40 degrees.  It is used on all lures that the Colorado blade is used on.  Use for situations where a slow to medium retrieve is required.  Due to the blade being slightly narrower than the Colorado blade, it is very popular in current situations.  The flash given from this blade is greater than with the Colorado blade.  The Indiana blade is great for walleye harnesses and spinner baits where more flash is required.

Willowleaf Blade

The Willowleaf blade is a very long narrow blade.  It spins very close to the shaft and has an angle of rotation of about 20 degrees.  The blade spins very fast and tight to the shaft so it is ideal for quick retrieves and swift currents on weighted spinners.  Due to the tight spin, it gives a lot of flash.  Its popular use is on spinner baits, lake trolls and extra large bucktail spinners for big pike and musky.  Use the Willowleaf blade when speed and flash are needed.  It will allow you to get deeper than any other blade on quick retrieves because there is minimal lift from this blade.  The Willowleaf blade is fantastic on spinner baits when fishing weedlines because this long slender blade seldom gets hung up on weeds, grass or brush.

French Blade

The French blade was developed in France over fifty tears ago.  Since then it has been most commonly referred to as the French blade.  It is used for many of the popular weighted spinners.  The French blade is used on more trout spinners than any other blade.  This blades angle of rotation is 40 degrees.  The idea is the recessed domed blade creates a fish-calling sonic effect.  This blade is a medium depth running blade and is good for still to slow moving currents.  The French blade is generally used on weighted trout spinners in sizes 0 to 3.  It is also very popular with pike and musky anglers in the larger sizes on bucktail spinners.  I should note here that although this blade is not very popular on spinner baits, it does work extremely well for bass and pike when rigged on spinner baits.

Swing & Ripple Blades 

The swing and ripple blades are both transplants from Europe.  They are used on many very popular spinners.  It is quite similar to the Willowleaf blade except that they are more rounded on the ends.  Both blades have an angle of rotation of about 20 degrees.  They are good for quick retrieves and swift currents.  Little lift is created by these blades so they will run deep with properly weighted bodies.  The ripple blade is different in that it will reflect light in all directions because of the unique bends in the blade.

Fluted Blade 

The fluted blade is a much sought after blade in the bass, pike and musky angler community.  Many musky and pike spinner manufacturers use this exact blade in the manufacture of their oversized pike and musky bucktail spinners.  This is a large blade and its design is similar to an Indiana blade that has been somewhat elongated with diagonal ripples down the back half of the blade.  The ripples create extra flash and vibration.  The angle of rotation is about 37 degrees and it creates a lot of lift because of its size.  The ripple effect creates a different sort of turbulence and a lot more resistance in the water.  This is definitely the blade for big bass, pike and musky!

There are three other blades that I am aware of; the sonic in-line blade, pro sonic in-line blade and the June bug blade.  If there is an interest in any of them I will post info on them.  Otherwise, I will mostly speak of the other blades.

So far I have not been able to get a pic to use for some of these blades.  When I do I will add them.  The next posting will be Clevises, since Dave is having ISP problems, he has asked me to do it.  I look forward to comments & questions concerning this material!

Clevisis

Clevises are the small pieces of metal which hold the spinner blade in place and permit the blade to spin freely around the spinner shaft or monofilament. 

Clevises come in two basic styles; stirrup (easy spin) and folded.  Stirrup clevises are formed from spring hardened brass wire for maximum strength.  Folded clevises are stamped then formed by folding the clevis in half.  All styles of clevises should be matched to the blade.  A clevis to large can affect your spinner’s action.  Here is a guide to clevis sizes and when to use them…

There is one other type clevis that I am aware of and that is called a “quick change clevis.”  This particular type clevis is popular with walleye fishermen, used on walleye harnesses.  I will save this item for when I do a topic on crawler harnesses!

Please understand that I am learning along with you and I am trying to keep my focus on single wire, inline spinners.  Any responsible comments and teaching help is welcome!  My next post will be weighted spinner bodies.

Hey Guys I saved it to the puter and the other link rod tosser put up, Thanks, when their store opens back up I,ll pick up some of their supplies.

I got plenty of paper it,s the INK that I dont want to use.

Pete...don't STOP NOW 'bro!

I KNOW your intention is to take this step by step as seen through YOUR eyes...as a beginner. And EYE am ALL for it....as we have done this with several other topics too.

For those of you that are already "dabbling" in doing this type of thing, I will have some pics of things that you can do with wire and spinners in the next few days.

Also....if you get a chance, pick up a little booklet that has been sold over the years at Jann's Netcraft called "Tackle Tricks with Wire". I did a search for it on the Interent and found used copies for as little as $1.99....but even though it was 1st published in 1969, Netcraft still sells it....

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/tackle...00001.aspx

Weighted Spinner Bodies

Spinner bodies come in different shapes, sizes, weights, finishes and are manufactured in solid brass, molded from lead or plastic.  Solid brass spinner bodies are turned one at a time, polished then plated or painted.  Lead spinner bodies are generally molded right on the wire shaft then painted.  Plastic lure bodies are either injected molded or ground from rough stock to size.

The purpose of a spinner body is for spinner weight and added attraction.  The idea is to get the spinner quickly to the depth that the fish are holding and maximize attraction at the same time.  There are several folks reading this that use other materials for the spinner bodies, and I hope they will share with the rest of us.  The more input of ideas the easier it will be to determine what materials are needed to be purchased or simply finding them in our tackle box or on our work bench!

Now that I have read through the “How to Manual” I am ready to order my materials.  I have already decided on my wire shafts, opting to purchase a variety of lengths (precut) and diameters. I have also decided to get a variety of spinners, sizes and finishes.   My next post will be a walk through as I construct my first inline spinner, including step by step pictures.

I would also like to state that the majority of this text came from “The Canadian Guide to Lure Making” by Real Pro’s SportFishing.  So now it is time to go shopping…Darn, I hate when that happens!