I've done a complete over haul of so many baitcasters in the last week I can literally put one together with my eyes closed. When oiling do NOT use WD-40, after a while it gunks up and causes problems.

 

Once you get the setting right you can throw long casts all day without a backlash. Change lures and you're in for trouble! lol

Fishing and baseball are alot alike. Everybody has their good days and everybody has their bad days. Only the best learn from both.

Great info guys. I prefer to use the larger round ones, ie the ABU GARCIA Ambassadeurs. No magnetic brakes, all on the operator. 8-12 lb for me and I've had great luck with them. Got one over 10 years old and still use it. Dont care much for the low profilers. Cost does sometimes make a difference. Last year I broke and spent the money for a Shimano Calcutta and its like having the right tool for the right job. I'ts the only thing I got to sleep with for two weeks!! HA!!  One thing I will add, when you set the tension on the spool for the lure weight it should fall slowly to the ground and as mentioned earlier, when it hits, not backlash. You should also not have to pull on the line to get the fall started. Also, I lube with a teflon based lubricant or CLP. Good casting and better yet, good netting. 
NAFC Life member since 1994, member NRA/ILA ,FMCA, NAFF,Veteran (73-89) extreme survivalist and Redneck. Toothpaste does not make the smell go away !!!

I just bought my first Bait caster and  so far I like it a lot. I got a Quantum Tenacity for 40.00 from Dick's Sporting Goods. I got a few helpful hints from the clerk and came home to try it. Casted about 15 or 20 times with only one backlash. Pretty good reel. Still need some practice though.

Dennis Terrell, Life Member since Feb. 2007

I have a Shimano Cruxis(discontinued) and an inexpesive Diawa. They have their place, but will NEVER replace my spinning rigs. The only advantages I have found to the baitcasters is fishing either heavy lures or fishing in weed choked water. I won't ever be without one or two, but they will never be my go-to rigs. BTW the Diawa I have yet to fish, but I bought it as a light duty trolling rod, the price($34.8 for the rod and reel was right. Thank you, Cabela's!

Tom 

PS: Did anyone see this mornings' episode of NAF TV? This was a topic!

If you folks want some more reading about baitcasters, I made a post in "Links and Info for Fisher-People" a couple years ago that was basically an Archive of a couple of topics we had on the subject a few years ago. Lots of good info there too by many Members
Life Member David BB Linkmeister US Army '78-'85 West Central Wisconsin

I am considering purchasing a baitcaster for musky fishing.  My greatest amount of experience is with the older types that Dave has stated he started with.  I tried canepoles baitcaster at LaCrosse last year and was very suprised at how easy it was to operate (no back lashes)!  But after reading some of the posts above, I find I have a few questions.

 

First, how much time do you lose adjusting the brake when you are constantly changing lure sizes and weights?

 

Secondly, is this why we see tournament guys & gals with so many rods and reels when they are fishing?  I have noticed that each of these are set up with different type / shapes/ weights of lures.  I am not fond of the idea of having to readjust the drag everytime I change lures nor do I see value in having so many set-ups for a single outing of fishing.

 

So I guess I am asking, is there a recommended alternative?  Perhaps I need to invest in a set-up just for musky.  But I still have the braking issues...Can anyone help me out?

 

 

LM since 2005 Bushwacker Deputy Sherif from S.E. Pa.

Pete, it's nothing like that! The reason they have all the rods is because they all have different lures so they don't have to retie. It takes all of about 15 seconds to adjust your tension knob after changing to a different weighted lure. As far as the brakes are conserned, I haven't changed mine since setting my reels up originally. Most times they come set up. As far as the drag, you set it up to your preferance. It all depends on the fish your targeting and how much you want to (horse) him. I have mine set for bass and never mess with it. When we were catching the hybrids last weekend, sure they pulled some drag but the drag did it's job and kept from beaking the line or rod. Another reason the pros have so many rods set up is the rods themselves. Each one is for the application they are using it for. Like me, I have a cranbait rod that is a lot different than say the rod I use for jig fishing.

Scott...how many times (on your baitcaster) have you switched from a (example) 3/8 oz jig that you were casting short distances to say a 3/4 oz crankbait / spoon looking to get over 100 ft on the cast?

 

Even on a muskie outfit....switching from a 1 1/2 oz lure to a 4 oz lure will give you a backlash for sure unless you have a VERY educated thumb.

 

I'll guarantee you that aeven a pro won't change lure weights this drastic on an outfit without reseting the brakiing mechanism (whatever kind is on the reel).

 

Aside from muskie fishing....I PREFER to have 4 different outfits with me.

 

1. A medium heavy baitcaster

2. A medium spinning outfit

3. A medium-light OR light spin outfit

4. An ultralight outfit in CASE I feel like panfishing while I'm out.

 

MOST of my spinning outfits have 2 piece rods, so they don't take a lot of space if ya take a moment to break them down. I also try to use only heavier stuff on the baitcaster so that I don't have to change the settings much.

 

THe LAST time I tried switching from 3/8 to a 1 oz on a baitcaster......and forgot to change the setting....well...that reel is STILL sitting here with a massive birdsnest on it

 

Pete....definitely get a baitcaster big enough (Abu 6500 series or equiv) for muskie / big pike.

 

JMHO

Life Member David BB Linkmeister US Army '78-'85 West Central Wisconsin

Most of the time you can get by without making any major adjustments. But if your going from a spinner to a spoon or anything that the weight changes quite a bit you don't have a choice. It's not that big a deal anyway, probably under 10 seconds once you get used to it. It sounds more complicated than it is, so don't make it that. Get yourself a set up and practice. If you get a backlash (or professional over run) from time to time....so what ...it happens to everybody. Don't let it discourage you.
Always drink upstream from the herd----- Life member since March 1990 ---- Hayward Lakes Area, Wi

Dave, on all the reels I own there is a tension knob, a drag, and if you take off the side plate there are brake pins you can pull in or out. The brakes all are across from each other and on all my reels I only pull two out across from each other to keep it in balance. If I switch from a 1/4 oz. lure to a 2 oz. lure all I adjust is the tension knob. As stated before, let the lure free spoll to the ground so there is no backlash. You might have to tweak it a hair after your first cast but thats all I gotta do. If for some reason I would be throwing 4 oz. lures or say musky type lures for a day then I might pull a couple more brake pins out before I started the day but once you set your brakes  up for what your gonna be fishing, all you should have to mess with is your tension knob. I guess it depends on the reel you fishing but I know alot of types are set up this way.

I have decided to compare the Abu Garcia 6600CB against the Shimano Corualus, CVL 400.  The price difference is only $10 so that won't be an issue.  I will have to do more research to identify the major differences.  The Abu has a 6.3:1 gear ratio vs a 5.3:1 for the Shimano.  Can anyone explain this difference to me?  Will it make a major difference in performance?  Remember that this reel and a later to be determined rod will be used only for casting lures for musky & pike.  I may also use it to live bait with bobber for the same species...I will post more info on these reels as I attempt to find a baitcaster for these species (your help is appreciated).

 

 

LM since 2005 Bushwacker Deputy Sherif from S.E. Pa.

    I never touch the right side adjustment, i just use the tension nob on the left. Of course I haven't tried to fish a 1/4 oz jig with it either. Guess I need more experimentation.

 

Jim USArmy 1986-Present Life Member NAFC Member Western Fishers Member Full Moon Fishers A man is rich in proportion to the number of things he can afford to let alone. Henry David Thoreau

The higher the gear ratio....the more line comes in per turn of the handle....USUALLY.

 

It also depends on the thickness of the line, the amount of line on the spool...and the size of the spool (width and depth).

 

Generally speaking though....the higher gear ratio reel will reel a bait in faster than a slow one.

 

Some lures seem to work better with a lower gear ratio reel though....and yet...there's other times when a fast moving lure gets a "reaction" strike".

 

I'm surprised the Abu is that high. For reference ...some reels are as low as 3.5:1.

 

Scott....I wasn't talking about the pins...I was talking about having to use the knob just like you described as having to do.

 

 

Life Member David BB Linkmeister US Army '78-'85 West Central Wisconsin

Turnip:

Be aware that most manufacturers offer the same model reel in more than 1 size and ratio. For Muskie, I would think you would be better served by something around 4.0-5.5, maybe even 6.0 to 1. Leave the 7.0 reels to the guys burning baits for bass. The only baitcaster I own for casting is a comrpomise,  it's a Shimano Cruxis(now discontinued) in a 6.3 ratio. It works for me as an all around compromise. Not the best at anything, but not the worst either, but it is too small for Muskie. For Muskie and big Pike, you need a bit more line capacity than most low profiles have. Go round!

Tom

Fishin' fool in NE Illinois

Well stated Tom.

 

I SHOULD clarify the gear ratio thing a little bit. A reel with a 6.3:1 ratio means that the spool will turn 6.3 times for every 1 turn of the handle.

 

If you look in the Basspro Spring Sale catalog...and compare (for example) reels with 6.3:1 ratios...some say 27" of line...some say 28". If you look close...you will see variations even in reels by the same MFG of the same gear ratio. This is where spool size and line diameters come into play.

Life Member David BB Linkmeister US Army '78-'85 West Central Wisconsin

Jim, you can throw a 1/4 oz. lure with it if you want to. Actually the only 1/4 oz. lure I throw with my baitcasters are jigs but you add in the weight of the trailer it might take it up to 3/8 oz. It's hard to do on windy days and I'm not talkin 50 yd. casts here but you will be able to fish them comfortably. It also depends on the line your using. I have 10-12 # mono on my light jig rod.

Corvalus 400

 

spool capasity = 330 yds. 12# test, 250 yds. 14# test, 220 yds. 17# test, 165 yds. 20# test.  These figures are for mono.  I asked specifically about 30# super braid and the yardage is 240.

 

Drag weight = 11 # max

 

ball bearings = 3

 

Roller bearings = 1

 

gear ratio = 5.2:1

 

reel weight = 11.8 oz

 

Line retrieve per crank = 22 inches

 

One piece die-cast aluminum frame, anti reverse and variable braking system.

LM since 2005 Bushwacker Deputy Sherif from S.E. Pa.

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Just a little info ! If you like to fish Deep Diving Crank Baits your going to want a 5-4-1 Ratio reel so it won't wear ya out ! A 6-3-1 will work but you'll be tired at the end of the day!

Ya, maybe for you old guys......Just say'in...