Some of the big hooks i use for bass fishing have gotten very rusty and im afraid that they're too weak and will break under the weight of a fighting fish. Should i get new hooks or stick with the rusty hooks?

You have to be the judge of it in the end. I personallywill get rid of very rusty hooks. Hooks that have just begun to develop some signs of rust, I will still use them.

i will leave you with this ,would you prefer to catch a once in a lifetime fish to have the hook break or would you rather replace the hook s.

It is said that you can't spend too much on shoes or a matress. Add hooks and line to that. Not only can rusty hooks be weak, they also are usually dull and don't penetrate well. Even the best premium hooks are not that expensive when you consider the alternative! Tom

I agree with Tom just go and buy some new hooks it's no like your going to break the bank.

Harry

I toss any hook with just a speck of rust on it. I wish I could find some electron-microscope photos of hooks with corrosion, but I couldn't relocate them. The damage goes deeper than what you can see. The whole thickness of metal around a spot of rust can be changed from the original molecular structure. What you see is a symptom of what lies below. If there is any on any part of the hook, chances are corrosion has first attacked the thinnest parts, like the point and barb.

Rusty hooks can also transmit tetanus, so if you use them be sure your shot is up to date.

Rusty hooks inhibit hook-setting potential. You have to pull harder to get the rust spot through flesh. Hook setting is far easier with a smooth hook in its prime.

When you replace your hooks, keep them dry with a desiccant. I keep mine in TicTac boxes (mint candy) with some fresh white rice inside. I also keep a commercial desiccant in the tacklebox holding my hooks. They are little gel packs like the ones that come packed with electronic equipment. I put them in a dehydrator as soon as I see any swelling of granules.

As soon as you become a little dissatisfied with a hook, toss it. It is the most fundamental tool you have, so make sure at least that part is in perfect shape. You can get by with a cheap reel, bait, a cheap rod or boat, but not an impaired hook.

Jim

Clean up that tackle box by tossing those rusty hooks.  I even replace the hooks if I can on my lures.  They're the most important connection between you and fish as matter of fact they are the only connection.  Rust spreads like a fire out of control.  Put them, along with old line in garbage!  Uncle Tom

I respect ALL of the guys that have posted in this Topic...but yet my comments will disagree with SOME of what they have said.

Over 40 YEARS of observing rust on everything from tools...to fishing tackle...to vehicles...my HUMBLE opinion is that there are 2 basic kinds of rust...one that originates from underneath metal plating / paint...and then there's surface rust.

I have acquired MANY lures over the year where I simply took a detail wire brush to them and cleaned them...and never had a problem.

At the same time though...there have been SOME lures that the hooks didn't look right to me after the brushing.

THEN...of course...there's SOME folks that believe that your rod....and EVERYTHING from the line on down to the lure...is basically a small crane...and that you can lift a +5 lb fish out of the water with it

Bottom LINE to ME is...take a small wire brush to the hooks and hardware...then look at them with a magnifying glass.

IF you don't like what you see..then replace.

I've seen 75 year old hooks that had surface rust catch decent fish...

JMHO

What fun would it be to always agree or do everything the same?

Yep, Dave, I've caught lots of those tiny surface rust seed spots in time. All it takes is a pass with a file. I have a bunch of 1950s/60s crankbaits with the original hooks that sometimes look and feel scaly (the galvanized hooks) and rusty (the iron hooks) that still catch fish. I fish those out of appreciation for my fishing beginnings. But the ones that have replacement hooks lose far fewer fish. I've had stripers and cats crush some of those old galvanized hooks that appeared fine. It seems there is corrosion not seen by the eye!

My main perspective is simple economics for me. I spend hundreds on a reel. I spend hundreds on a rod. I spend $10 on line in the reel. A lure might cost up up $25. I can't justify keeping any imperfect hook tied on longer than necessary when it only costs $1-$6 for a perfect worry-free worm hook. I can justify some reconditioning, or replacing some hooks once weekly (monthly for high grade hooks), even once a day if they have been grabbing rocks or hanging up on stumps. Since jigs, buzzbaits and spinnerbaits have much heavier hooks I recondition those without much concern until the rest of the bait is overly worn.

Jim

Hooks aren't very expensive, so most of the time I'd recommend replacing them. You can always test their strength using a pair of pliers. Give 'em a tug, if it breaks, then you just saved yourself losing a big one because of old gear.

Hooks aren't very expensive, so most of the time I'd recommend replacing them. You can always test their strength using a pair of pliers. Give 'em a tug, if it breaks, then you just saved yourself losing a big one because of old gear.