Beginner's Guide to Baitcasting Reels
Last Post 13 Mar 2012 12:15 PM by mo65. 12 Replies.
Printer Friendly
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
Sort:
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages
Mr. BlankUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:22 Mr. Blank
--
30 Jan 2012 08:20 PM
    First off, let me say I consider myself a beginner too. However, this site and a few other shows on TV have taught me a thing or two about using baitcasting reels, and I'd like to share them for others who are at least as new as I am.

    First off, as the more experienced members have pointed out, you want a mid-range gear ratio to start off with; something like 6:1. This means that for every full turn of the crank, the spool turns six times. This is so that you get a good idea of how they work; lower ratios have more fighting power for stuff like large bass, higher ones are good for lighter fish like panfish and trout.

    Next up, the line, don't overdo it; either on the weight or the amount. This means if the maximum pound test the reel is designed for is only fourteen pounds then that should be the maximum diameter you put on. If you want a stronger weight or better abrasion resistance, try a fusion type line or a braided line. They're thinner with a greater pound test rating. On a related note, make sure you use a rod that is compatible. Don't make the mistake I did years ago, and put a spinning reel on a baitcaster rod. Trust me, it doesn't work well. Though it can make for some downright comical moments at your expense.

    Alright, on the actual operation of the reel. You'll note a knob on the right side as you're looking at the open face. This knob is for controlling the spool at the beginning of the cast. On the opposite side is a dial, probably labeled 1-10. This one is for the end of the cast. To set these, put a lure, or a weight if you know what weight you'll be using, on the line, hold the rod at about 30 degrees, and disengage the bale. SLOWLY adjust the right-hand knob until the lure or weight just begins to move. If you have it set right, the lure/weight will fall slowly and gently to the ground and stop once it touches it. Reel it back up, and adjust the dial this time, it should still fall at the same speed, maybe a little faster, with the spool going no more than a quarter turn this time before stopping. *Do not go out and try casting until you have this set correctly.* I did that and had to cut a whole spool of Spiderwire out because it backlashed so badly and I didn't know any other way at the time to deal with it. Remember also, if what I told you here and what the manufacturer says differ; follow the manufacturer's directions for how to specifically set these two functions, and remember to check each time you change baits. If you have it set wrong it can be disastrous for your fishing trip. Also, on the crank, you'll notice a star shaped piece of metal. For those who don't know, this is called a drag star. This is how you set your drag. Most folks recommend you set this at about a third of your line's test rating. I personally have mine set at about half, but that's because I use a tougher line and I'm usually fishing for the larger fish in private ponds and places that might not have seen a human footprint in decades.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWcAHgeWsUk

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDI5...re=related

    That being said, once you have it all set correctly, go out and give it a few practice casts. Remember to feather the line with you thumb, and stop the spool with that same thumb just before or just as the lure or bait hits the water. This helps to prevent backlash and softens the impact of the lure on the water so you don't spook the fish.

    If I've left anything out, or if you know a better way of doing something mentioned in here, please, SPEAK UP! I'm always open to learning new and better ways of doing things and I always try to pass on what I learn.
    Bassman47312013User is Offline Advanced Poster Advanced Poster Send Private Message Posts:294 Bassman47312013
    --
    31 Jan 2012 07:20 AM
    Here is a good trick that I like to use when I get backlash. Tighten the drag star a little and put your thumb on your spool. Now apply some good pressure and give it a couple turns. Then pull out some line. Depending on the reel you might have to tighten the drag star more. You might get it the first time or it might take a couple times. But as long as you just keep doing it most of the time you’ll get backlash out. And if you’re new to baitcasting also get a reel pick.

    Happy Fishing

    Bassman

    Gone Fishin
    mo65User is Offline Veteran Poster Veteran Poster Send Private Message Posts:1591 mo65
    --
    31 Jan 2012 08:06 AM
    Nice post Mr. Blank. My best advice for beginners would be to use a heavier bait that cuts the wind good. Something like a spinnerbait. If you start out with a light bait like a Rapala minnow...you're going to have headaches.
                                                                                                                               
    Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, if it wasn't for my super smooth carbon drag, my 30 year old Trilene would bust!
    Bassman47312013User is Offline Advanced Poster Advanced Poster Send Private Message Posts:294 Bassman47312013
    --
    31 Jan 2012 08:08 AM
    yeah i learned that the hard way
    Gone Fishin
    PegsguyUser is Offline Veteran Poster Veteran Poster Send Private Message Posts:4104 Pegsguy
    --
    31 Jan 2012 09:09 AM
    Great post MrBlank but I think you got the roles of the two controls reversed. The friction brake (on the crank side) comes into play all through the cast with it's greatest contribution at the end of the cast. The mag or centrifugal brake has it's greatest effect in the beginning when spool speed is highest. (source: Shimano owner's manual)
    Lifer in NE Illinois Gen. 1:28 I didn't rise to the top of the food chain to become a vegitarian!
    Mr. BlankUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:22 Mr. Blank
    --
    31 Jan 2012 12:55 PM
    Posted By Pegsguy on 31 Jan 2012 10:09 AM
    Great post MrBlank but I think you got the roles of the two controls reversed. The friction brake (on the crank side) comes into play all through the cast with it's greatest contribution at the end of the cast. The mag or centrifugal brake has it's greatest effect in the beginning when spool speed is highest. (source: Shimano owner's manual)

    Thanks for the correction. My reel for whatever reason didn't come with an owner's manual. But then, I bought it at Wal-Mart, so who knows. I'll play with it some more and get it all figured out on my next fishing trip. Too many nice cars around here whose owners would not appreciate damaged windshields.
    PegsguyUser is Offline Veteran Poster Veteran Poster Send Private Message Posts:4104 Pegsguy
    --
    01 Feb 2012 08:23 AM
    I have a park down the street that is great for practice casting. No need to worry about hitting something, just practice in the 2-3 acre pond! Even without the water, often a local park will have an unused open area that you can use for practice.
    Lifer in NE Illinois Gen. 1:28 I didn't rise to the top of the food chain to become a vegitarian!
    Mr. BlankUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:22 Mr. Blank
    --
    01 Feb 2012 02:55 PM
    Ordinarily I would... but with a broken foot, I'm limited to where the wife will drive me. On top of that, she's enjoying playing Mother Hen just a tad much if you ask me.

    BUT! At least she gave in and agreed to go to a local pond tomorrow if he weather permits since I can just sit in a chair and fish from the bank.
    Mr. BlankUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:22 Mr. Blank
    --
    01 Feb 2012 02:55 PM
    Ordinarily I would... but with a broken foot, I'm limited to where the wife will drive me. On top of that, she's enjoying playing Mother Hen just a tad much if you ask me.

    BUT! At least she gave in and agreed to go to a local pond tomorrow if he weather permits since I can just sit in a chair and fish from the bank.
    RedneckDMNCUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:155 RedneckDMNC
    --
    01 Feb 2012 08:43 PM
    Another good trick is, once you get a good cast for maximum distance, pull out another 8-10 ft. of line and put a piece of tape on the spool. That way if and when you backlash, it won't go no deeper in the spool than the tape. Saves hours of picking as 9 times out of 10 the backlash will pull out easily. You may need to move the tape deeper into the spool as you get better and gain distance before finally doing away with it all together.

    Good luck in your bait-casting adventures.
    Ben Bryant - Life Member Since 1997
    Bob La LondeUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:38 Bob La Londe
    --
    21 Feb 2012 10:22 AM
    Here is something I wrote up a few years ago on bait casting reels. http://www.yumabassman.com/index.sh...aitcasting Center of the page. Its not complete, and there are probably a few minor changes I should make to the article, but I have gotten some positive feedback on it from a couple people who were struggling with their reels.
    Bob La Londe www.YumaBassMan.com Support the future of bass fishing. Join a draw team (Pro/Am) club. www.YumaProAm.com
    Mr. BlankUser is Offline New Poster New Poster Send Private Message Posts:22 Mr. Blank
    --
    13 Mar 2012 11:33 AM
    Thank you, Bob.

    I went out yesterday and got my first sunburn of the year. Also finally got my baitcaster down to a science. The brakes are all off and I can throw a lure for half the spool's distance with no backlash without having to add weight to the line. Turns out I was swinging it too hard and making the spool overspin. So, new tip: A little flick will do ya.
    mo65User is Offline Veteran Poster Veteran Poster Send Private Message Posts:1591 mo65
    --
    13 Mar 2012 12:15 PM
    Congrats Mr. Blank...good to hear you're getting good results! 
    Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, if it wasn't for my super smooth carbon drag, my 30 year old Trilene would bust!
    You are not authorized to post a reply.